Fusible link gone

[IDIBRONCO]

Also.. What were your thoughts on why you wanted to use a relay?

Mt thoughts are to reduce the load on an already known weak circuit piece-the light switch. My thought is that if I don't pull power for the gauge lights, it will put less strain the switch less and have a better chance of not burning up in the future. Right now, there is less of a load on the light switch since I'm running headlight relays, but a little less couldn't hurt.

 

[Selahdoor]

If you are running relays for the headlights, I think you are set.

Especially if you already replaced the switch and connector, like I did, when I added relays.

That is a pretty hefty switch.

The headlight load was just too much for them, over time.

And the heavy load for the headlights, affected the other parts of the switch as well. If one tang is getting hot enough to melt things, it's going to get the adjacent tangs quite hot as well.

The pod gauges are only a tiny percentage of the amperage that the headlights drew.

 

[Scotty4]

Just wanted to update: I fixed my brown wire (one of the trailer or marker lights) on the switch, changed the location of my ground to the engine block for all the gauges, and installed an inline fuse for the water temp gauge as I reread the manual. It recommends a 3amp. Maxi fuse should be here tomorrow and then I can start it up for the first time in a few months! Really don't like the fusible link deal if I happen to have another problem. Though that wire was the only one I messed with, if there does happen to be another issue that blows the fuse, I can investigate and replace a fuse instead of re-solder. That plus the coming up cross country trip, it would be nice to not have to solder anything on the side of the road.

Tonight, time pending, I will tap into the blue/red wire.