I forgot to bring this up, but one doesn't need to stock the whole assortment of fuse wire.
If one is careful on inserting a fusible link, one can parallel fusible links on the same circuit where the current rating is the sum total of the individual wires.
To make this work, wires must all be the same length, preferably all twisted together, with their ends all united together at the same end of a butt joint, crimped, and soldered into the circuit it is to protect. My fuselink runs are typically about four inches long, inserted in an easy-to-get-to place. I know there is a massive butt joint under the heat shrink at each end. I often have to fold the fuse wire back on itself to fill it's end of the butt joint connector properly, as fusible link wire is typically protecting a wire four gauges heavier, but both ends if the butt joint are the same size. It is very important to keep the resistance on all wires of a multiple parallel fuse wire assembly identical, lest all the current take the path of least resistance, blow that, then proceed with the remaining paths, until none left, which is often in seconds.
Learn how circuit wires must be sized in a manner that matches the ampacity of the load placed on them. This is a critical safety concern.
www.thespruce.com
I keep a spool of this handy...
I have four strands in parallel protecting my #4 AWG main which goes from my battery rail to the White-Rodgers contactor for the glow plugs .
All crimped, soldered, and heat shrunk, trying to avoid water intrusion/corrosion, which if it happens, I will guarantee it will happen at a really bad time.
This is to protect against catastrophic failures, like having Jack Daniel around while working in the engine bay, or something compromises the harness insulation.