@SWS-
(1)
Those are misting nozzles for greenhouses, I got two @ .012" and two @ .008".I see now after 500 miles that I easily could have gone with three @.018" and not over-injected.
(2)
I didn't measure the flow rate, I took the manufacturers word for their rating.
(3)
My activation method is a toggle switch zip-tied to my stick shift, just under the knob so I can reach it with my bird finger to toggle it on or off.
(4)
No, I don't have a Hobbs switch (what is a Hobbs switch?)
(5)
No, I do not see a turbo in my near future, however I will not rule out the possibility somewhere farther down the road.
(6)
Yes, as a matter of fact it HAS to go post-impeller to avoid eroding the impeller and causing a sudden disastrous de-centralization of turbo parts.
(7)
Minimum (cheap) pump pressure will be about 45psi. Intermediate level pumps like mine can make around 70psi, cost $65-$100, and are made for agricultural spraying of Round-up or fertilizer & insecticide. Expensive dedicated injection system pumps make 150-200psi, and if you are going to go that route be ready to shell out about $1300 for one of the big name water-**** injection systems. Pressure is not as important as the big names would have you believe to achieve your target flow rate and atomization is VERY important. You want to keep the droplet size as small as possible and that is more a function of nozzle size than pressure but the pressure has to be sufficient to atomize the water properly at the nozzle size you have selected. Just gang more nozzles to achieve the desired flow rate -No circular logic intended.
(8)
No, turbo boost pressure can not force the water back into the water line- Our turbo's make what, 15psi? Minimum acceptable water pressure is 45psi. That is a 30psi advantage right there.
(9)
I got this pump at Northern Tool's.
The nozzles clogged shortly after leaving to come home Monday. I see now that I need a pressure relief valve in there somewhere also so I can turn the system off and immediately relieve the backpressure, maybe even an elec. operated one that goes open when power is off to the pump. Initially the spray was good for a tiny bit of cooling as observed on my regular temp gauge, but barely a needles width. I can also see that I was VERY conservative on the amount that I was spraying, running two .012"s and one .008", the mileage results were marginaly improved, I got a flat 16mpg on the way down driving 60 & 65mph, no HHO, just ram air and water/alcohal injection. The HHO system is still in the middle of a rebuild/upgrade. I have a friend that is holding a set of turbo heads for me. I am going to take them to the diesel place that I use and have them drop the valves for me so I can do a little port work. I did this with my Harley many, many moons ago and the difference was immediately apparent, and I believe I have even read here that letting an idi breathe better is one of the best things you can do for it as far as power and economy. I will be getting a baby Moose in the next two or three weeks, and have already installed new "BB" code injectors last week. Next on the agenda will be the exhaust system, and I have not decided yet what I want to do with that.
