Fuel tank replacement

[Mv7fd]

Both my fuel tanks are leaking from somewhere up top so i want to replace them would it be easier to remove the bed so I can get all the lines off and back on or just drop them from the bottom? Also when I go to get the tanks is there only one style for the side tank or front tank and only one style for the rear tank?

 

[Thewespaul]

Do you have a tool box or headache rack on your truck? if you dont or if they are easy to remove i would just take off the bed, much easier that way

 

[Mv7fd]

No rack or tool box can I get the tanks out from the top if I remove the bed

 

[79jasper]

The rear tank will lift right out. Front has to be dropped.

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[larson]

How full are they? I had both of my tanks dropped cleaned and pick up extended in 6 hours and that was taking my sweet time drinking cold ones and I even had to bolt the rear back up to run to AutoZone for a filler hose. It makes no sense to me to pull your bed. But I also keep my spare in the bed so I didn't have to mess with removing it. If your tanks are full hope you know how to suck on a hose or have some extra hands. Good luck regardless.

 

[G. Mann]

Pull the bed. If you have a cherry picker [engine lift] you can do it by yourself, just use nylon straps to the corner pockets, and tie them all off to the lift, jack the bed up just enough to clear the tires [after you disconnect the fuel fill tubes, don't forget, and the tail light plug disconnect.

Takes me less than 15 min to pull the bed doing it that way. Way better access to the rear tank and part of the front tank.

Unplug the fuel supply line and slip a section of fuel line over the pipe, connect that to any electric fuel pump and pump the tank empty into fuel jugs. Nearly painless, and WAY better than trying to wrestle a tank out with fuel in it..

Reverse that fuel pump to re-fuel the tank when you get it all mounted back in.. a small 12 volt battery charger will give you 12 volts to run the pump. Be careful with sparks and fuel.. of course..

When you put the bed back on by yourself.. put a couple layers of cardboard boxes against the back of the cab so you don't bang it up when you slip the bed back in place.. Just get it setting on the frame, close to the bolt hole alignment.. you can easily jiggle it into position by yourself... Bed weighs not much.. just to big to handle without the lift.

Or.. if you want to be really cool.. build one of these...

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[Wvdirtroad]

Pull the bed. 6 bolts and screws in fuel fill necks. I had my bed off in maybe 30 minutes.

 

[riotwarrior]

Always dropped em down for me...works well with real transmission jack u strap onto

 

[Mv7fd]

They barely have any fuel in them I just thought about pulling the bed so I can clean things up and remove the tank also when I put the tanks back in with the bed off I'm not trying to feel around blind to get stuff hooked back up that's a pain

 

[Mv7fd]

Also if I pull the bed off then I can see what's really leaking I might get lucky and it just be the filler neck and won't have to drop the tank

 

[icanfixall]

Might be the top entry to the tanks leaking too. Worst part of removing the bed is the salt rusted bolts you are going to deal with. Pulling the bed is a good idea. Dropping the tanks is a tuff job because of the fuel moving around changing your balance. BTW if you decide to leave the bed on please cut loose the rear tank suction and return lines from the frame cross member in front of the tank. Reason is this will give more room to reach in to remove the lines from the tank top.

 

[catbird7]

I'll throw in another vote for bed removal. Also plan on a few curse words when removing those six bolts. Very often the square neck on the bolt will turn in the bed before the nut breaks free. This will force you to tack weld the head to the bed floor in order to remove the nut. Still better than removing from bottom IMO.

 

[IDIoit]

i like to pull the bed to get to sending units,
its a pain in the ass to install the filler neck with the bed on.

if you have 2 leaking tanks, i would suggest you think about installing a 33-38 gal rear tank and delete the front tank and FSV.
very happy with my swap.

 

[larson]

i like to pull the bed to get to sending units,
its a pain in the ass to install the filler neck with the bed on.

if you have 2 leaking tanks, i would suggest you think about installing a 33-38 gal rear tank and delete the front tank and FSV.
very happy with my swap.

Idioit,where can one purchase said rear tank? I'm definitely interested in getting rid of the dual tank setup so its one less thing to go south.

 

[Wvdirtroad]

I'll throw in another vote for bed removal. Also plan on a few curse words when removing those six bolts. Very often the square neck on the bolt will turn in the bed before the nut breaks free. This will force you to tack weld the head to the bed floor in order to remove the nut. Still better than removing from bottom IMO.

I had good luck with heating the bolts with a propane torch until they were pretty darn hot and then used a breaker bar and steel square tube as an extension for leverage.