This is a much better diagram. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45682&d=1375563775
With all due respect, if the FSV is bad (and see below; I'm about 85% sure it isn't), I'll replace it with another FSV before re-wiring and replumbing my truck. I don't think the FSV is the piece of junk that you make it out to be, but maybe I've just been inordinately lucky? This FSV was installed used in 2002 and has been working perfectly to date. I only replaced the OEM FSV because I thought it had failed...turned out the fuse had blown because I had switched it too many times, and the core problem was a bad injector pump.Were it me, I would eliminate the gauge wiring from the FSV and route it through a SPDT toggle-switch, thus eliminating any problems with the FSV from the equation.
My switch is located beside the driver-seat, next to the manual fuel-valves.
Longer wires could be spliced on and the switch mounted somewhere on the dash if that were preferable.
Considering your information, I don't think you have a float or sender problem, nor do I think the problem is in the instrument panel.
My best guess is a problem either within the FSV itself, or in the plug-connections at the FSV.
Located down under the truck, those connections can get awfully corroded.
I was worried that that might have been the problem, but I think I can fairly say that I've avoided the worst at least. I just came back from a 200 mile run, with topping off both fuel tanks before departure, and running the aft tank the whole way...and no fuel coming out of either fill neck like I'm draining from one tank and returning to the other. I won't know for 100% certain that I was drawing from the aft tank until I refuel again (I got maybe 2 hours of sleep last night; I need to take a nap before going to work this evening, so I'll refuel later), but when I fueled up yesterday, the aft tank was at about the level I thought it would be...so, I'm about 85% sure that my FSV is switching properly. OTOH, as Midnight pointed out, maybe there's an internal corrosion issue keeping the sender wires from properly making contact?on my 85, my guage quit and about a week later fuel started pouring out of the rear tank. The FSV failed and was drawing from the front tank and returning to the rear. I replaced the FSV, but used one from an 89 which has a different plug. I expect that my guage will work again once I get the plug wired in. Until then the FSV seems to default to the front tank when it doesn't receive power.
Hey Brian,Tim, ive been trying to find time to read this entire post.
its not working...
if you have issues with the system, why not just take the time and install the rear larger tank, and delete the front.
no FSV, no BS.
JM.02W
Thank you so much! I suspected that the the two things were identical, but it's nice to get the confirmation. I finally pulled out and cracked open the factory shop manual. It's saying that the things (they're calling them "connector buttons") just snap on and off the IVR. So, it looks like I will be good shape if I can find another connector button. I'm finding replacement IVR's on LMC Truck, but no mention of the button...I may have to go junkyard diving on the other hand, the hole in the circuit board's so small that I'm wondering if the button's supposed to be a permanent part of the board...in which case I may have to solder it.Here's what mine look like:
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So yeah, looks like you lost one of the "rivets". I didn't try too hard to pull either one of those things off the regulator; didn't want to damage the board/film thing. But they were on fairly tight. I'm thinking if you were able to get it to function just by touching it, you could probably re-attach that contact point to the regulator with some pin, perhaps a toothpick or the like. Just something that would physically secure the film to the contact on the regulator.