Fuel filter results

[Brian VT]

In case you didn't know the stock separator is underneath and of the master cylinder.

I did not know that.
Holy crap! Mine is still there!
I had assumed it would be in an obvious place and I'd see a glass bowl to see when it needed draining.
I hadn't seen anything like that so I assumed that it had been disposed of.
Ford tucked it in there tight! And no glass bowl (that I could see).
I guess I'll pull the ring tomorrow with daylight and see what happens.
Thank you for mentioning that. I'm sure it's easy for many of you experienced guys to assume that other members here already know these basic things so I really appreciate you bringing that up.
And now I know where to look for an air leak if I get one. ;-)
Maybe pulling the ring after all this time will cause an air leak?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

They tucked it in there tight. And no glass bowl (that I could see).

Yes they did and there's no glass bowl or any other bowl. It's all self contained.

And now I know where to look for an air leak if I get one. ;-)

Unfortunately, if you pull that ring, you probably will end up with an air intrusion issue. They didn't like to seal 20+ years ago.

Holy crap! Mine is still there!

Check underneath to see if it's still hooked up. Mine is still there in my Blue Truck, but it was bypassed years ago. Before I bought the truck. The only way that you can tell without pulling on the ring is to look at the fuel lines underneath it.

 

[Brian VT]

Thank you. Glad I didn't pull it tonight.
So...if it's still connected...now what? ;-)

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's up to you. If you want to remove it, it would be a good place to mount an aftermarket water separator.

 

[Old Goat]

The fuel supply line from the FSV runs along the frame rail and turns up a short ways, then the rubber hose connects to it with a Hose Clamp.
Then connects to the water trap.
Then from the other side of the Water trap the hose runs back down and connects to a steel line that follows the curvature of the X frame under the Engine and up to the lift pump.
The Curly Q rubber hose then connects from it to the Lift Pump.

I know it is Plastic supply line from the FSV, not sure if a section of steel line is connected to it.
I did replace that rubber hose which was already disconnected from the water trap and looped together to bypass the water Trap.

I was working on my Oil Cooler and had front Wheel, Inner Fender, Battery, Coolant bottle etc... removed and really made it simple to replace that hose then.
I couldn`t tell you if it was Steel or Plastic I connected the hose to.
I made it long enough then as I had plans to install the Racor Filter on the Fender near the Hood Hinge. Also installed a manual Primer hand pump.

Crawl under the truck on the Passenger side with a bright Flash Light, and you will see what Iam talking about.


Goat

 

[Greenie]

" There is no drain on the bottom of the tank.
Also the Shower head sucks from the bottom of the tank."

I realize this - I had been thinking of siphoning the water out - if the hose could rest on the bottom of the tank. It seems like there's a heck of a lot of water there. BTW... my first diesel pickup - an '83 GMC 6.2 1/2 ton had a T-handle valve on the frame plumbed into the fuel tank for draining water from the factory. Never tried using it in the 11 years I owned the vehicle. The engine, BTW was durable - not powerful but durable. The 700R4 not so good - the body and frame rotted very quickly.

 

[ibapaine]

So I went out bought diesel clean, Seafoam, Howells and a lift pump. Gonna put it all back together I’ll let y’all know how it turns out. Lift pump had no suction on the in-line.

I'd like to put a water separator back in my ('87 6.9 n/a) system also.
-Where is a good place to split the fuel line?
- I thought I'd seen one that also had a fuel primer? I'd REALLY like one of those since my fuel gauge doesn't work and I don't know the condition of my showerhead.
Any help/advice appreciated.

Between the lift pump and IP. If the bracket is gone then maybe you can find one at the junkyard. All you gotta do to get one out is remove the alternator and a couple lines. If you wanted it out of the engine bay I would put it between the front tank and transfer case.

 

[Booyah45828]

I honestly would replace the whole line from the tank/fsv to the lift pump, and then frame/floor mount a racor filter/water separator in the new line. Nylon fuel line is cheap and pretty durable, and if you're already missing the factory water separator, that's one patch in the steel line that is susceptible to leaking. Plus, around here most of your steel lines will have rust on them, sometimes a lot of rust.

Consider installing a hardline delete kit from russ too, and you'll have most of the fuel system problems eliminated. You can keep the factory filter head and filter, or replace it with a better unit, that's your call.

With the nylon line I prefer to use single barb fittings with pinch clamps over compression fittings. Heat the nylon up a little with a lighter and it will push over the barb easily. Use the tool for the pinch clamps, don't try and use a pliers.

If you buy a water seperator off ebay make sure it has a genuine parker/racor filter. This is what I put on my bus, it's likely too tall to be mounted on a pickup https://www.ebay.com/itm/222018225884

 

[ibapaine]

New lift pump installed truck tried to idle a little better. Seafoam through the fuel filter no change. ATF through fuel filter. Let the truck sit over night. Yesterday metering valve was still stuck upon start up. Drove about 20 miles hard. No more problems after.