Fuel Additives

[Pat Tavelli]

I have a 1989 f-250 Idi. I am always working on it. Mostly because I love doing it. I am a retired tradesmen. Not a mechanic by any stretch. I know tools and just enough to break ****. Usually I can fix it to. I've had my truck for 10 years now.

More and more i seem to be replacing the 0-rings on my return lines. I get about 18 months to 2 years out of a set. I use Sea Foam as an additive to keep injectors clean. Works great, I was wondering out loud on my key board if there is a better one out there for California emissions? Any thoughts?

 

[firehonomichl]

I personally use standadyne.. it’s a very great product. I get like 4 mpg better when I’m using it. And it helps lube up the pump and injectors.

 

[Cubey]

I personally use standadyne.. it’s a very great product. I get like 4 mpg better when I’m using it. And it helps lube up the pump and injectors.

What MPG numbers do you get with vs without?

I wish I could get even 1-2mpg better in my RV but that's wishful thinking without having either an OD unit on my C6 or an E4OD. Stanadyne is kind of pricey for the big jug ($37 for 64oz from O'Reilly) for something that might not help much. I have been using Power Service products, grey bottle when it's not around freezing, white bottle when around freezing.

 

[CarolinaIDI]

A good healthy dose of Hot Shots Extreme does wonders.

 

[79jasper]

A good healthy dose of Hot Shots Extreme does wonders.

That and the EDT seemed to quite my PSD injectors.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I know tools and just enough to break ****. Usually I can fix it to.

Right there is the basics. You've also got the next step down too. You've joined up on here. Seeing that you have a 1989, you probably don't have a lot in the way of emissions, do you? As far as the return line o-rings go, are you using viton o-rings or regular rubber ones? The viton ones last a lot longer.

 

[franklin2]

I have a 1989 f-250 Idi. I am always working on it. Mostly because I love doing it. I am a retired tradesmen. Not a mechanic by any stretch. I know tools and just enough to break ****. Usually I can fix it to. I've had my truck for 10 years now.

More and more i seem to be replacing the 0-rings on my return lines. I get about 18 months to 2 years out of a set. I use Sea Foam as an additive to keep injectors clean. Works great, I was wondering out loud on my key board if there is a better one out there for California emissions? Any thoughts?

I was using regular Buna-N o-rings and like you, they would leak after a few years. I heard the other guys using viton. I heard rumors they may be stiffer and harder to seal, but I got some and they sealed good and they have been lasting better than the regular hydraulic style o-rings. McMaster Carr sells them.

 

[firehonomichl]

What MPG numbers do you get with vs without?

I wish I could get even 1-2mpg better in my RV but that's wishful thinking without having either an OD unit on my C6 or an E4OD. Stanadyne is kind of pricey for the big jug ($37 for 64oz from O'Reilly) for something that might not help much. I have been using Power Service products, grey bottle when it's not around freezing, white bottle when around freezing.

So i get about 13.5-14 with out and around 18 with it. If I’m on the highway and cruise set it gets a little better. But I can definitely tell when I don’t run it. My truck idle so much smother with it.

 

[Cubey]

A good healthy dose of Hot Shots Extreme does wonders.

Yeah I have some of that too. I used about half of the bottle in late 2019 after I started using the rear tank and it seemed like the muck dirtied up the IP, hurting MPG and how it idled. It did do the trick, restoring the mpg and idle. It seemed like my mechanical lift pump began leaking right after, but it was probably due to go anyway. I guess I should give it a shot of that again the next time I fuel up and hop on the freeway.

 

[Greenie]

I've used Stanadyne Performance for years - original injectors and injector pump lasted 24 years - and probably would still be operating if I wouldn't have been running down a starting problem which was later cured with a new starter. Stanadyne also emulsifies water so there's never any water to drain off in the filter - ever.

 

[Kevin 007]

ya Stanadyne lubricity formula is what I use

 

[Cubey]

Stanadyne also emulsifies water so there's never any water to drain off in the filter - ever.

Actually the official site says this:

Helps Remove Water: Special demulsifiers cause tiny water droplets to come out of suspension/emulsion, so the filter/separator can more effectively remove water

So if anything, you may have more water to drain. If you never have water to drain, your W/S may not be working.

Source: https://promo.parker.com/promotionsite/stanadyne-additives/us/en/products

 

[Greenie]

"So if anything, you may have more water to drain. If you never have water to drain, your W/S may not be working."

I was speaking of my practical experience - observations over 28 years of ownership of this vehicle. Prior to Stanadyne I did drain accumulated water from the filter monthly. I started using the Performance Formula about 23 years ago and have used it religiously ever since. If the water separator wasn't working the injection pump and injectors didn't seem to mind one bit.
I also have a 1999 30HP John Deere compact tractor which has a plastic red ring that will float on water in the translucent fuel filter. The tractor runs on off road diesel and Performance Formula. The red plastic ring never floats (no water trapped) . This machine has 1,400 hours all original except for the battery and tires.
I'm a licensed Master oil burner technician (36 years) and suspect that the emulsified water would form into accumulated ice on the filter in cold temperatures and cause fuel starvation - it did with treated heating oil or kerosene in outside tanks resulting in no heat service calls. I added 3/8" refrigeration tubing coiled around the F-250's fuel filter which circulates coolant during cold weather operation which probably keeps the filter free of ice and wax.

 

[cbmech]

By emulsifying the the water either the filter media will absorb it or it will go right through and won't bother your injectors. Either way you will never see it, or if you do you have enough to shut off the filter. The media in a filter meant to stop water swells up and won't let anything through.

 

[u2slow]

Power Service for me... because I can usually get it on sale by the jug. I dose in the winter and when I run a batch of WMO - but rarely otherwise.

I'm not convinced the ULSD standard is being adhered to. Maybe 20% of the time I get 'clear' diesel that basically odorless; the rest of the time its classic stinky green stuff - like 25 years ago. So if 80% of my fuel doesn't have its lubricity damaged, why dose all the time?