front end alignment question

[laserjock]

Done some reading. Is it the pivot point? If the pivot points are tied to the frame then the ride height change makes sense. More crawling around and looking.

 

[SparkandFire]

If you suspect that camber bushings (which are actually caster/camber bushings all in one...) are needed, do yourself a favor and install adjustable units yourself, this will save you a bunch of coin at the alignment shop. Once you go through all the effort of taking the old bushings out and installing adjustable ones, you will understand why they charge so much to do it... It's a real pain.

First things I would check, before alignment would be your leaf spring bushings, ball joints, and pivot bushings. If any of those get any play whatsoever, alignment is a lost cause. Fix everything that's worn out first. Typically worn bushings and such present themselves as worn tire insides on our TTB trucks, but as mentioned earlier, excessive toe can cause outer tire wear.

Picture of adjustable bushings... For reference

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[laserjock]

That's good information. Other than the local parts store, has anyone found a reasonable supplier for thinks like bushing kits and seals, etc. NPD seems to have some stuff but navigating them online is not easy. I haven't looked at lmc truck yet but are there other common vendors? Last time I did much of this take it apart, put it back together we didn't have much to pick from besides the local parts store and junk yards. Yep, it's been a while.

 

[SparkandFire]

I have not found one front end part yet that Rock auto didn't have... Great prices too

www.rockauto.com



I bought ball joints, bushings, tie rods, everything needed for front end repair from them.

 

[laserjock]

I have bought from them before but they are not real easy to navigate either. I'll take a look though. Thanks for the info.

 

[Bashby]

I did alignments for a living for YEARS. It will make it harder on the tech if you install those then take it in. Here's the drill for a full alignment on a TTB
Check ball joints, tie rods etc,
Hang the sensors, set it down and get your readings.
Jack it back up, pull the wheels
Remove upper BJ nut and the camber bushing with an air chisel
Read the # on the bushing then calculate which fixed bushing you need, or how to orient one of those adjustable types
Install new bushing, wheel and hang sensors
Set it back down, verify caster and camber
Set the toe


You don't just put the adjustable ones in then turn them until it is right, and good luck getting them out in a year or 2 without destroying them

 

[laserjock]

Okay. I can see that. Does it make sense to go ahead and change the ball joints? I think it definitely would make sense to go ahead and replace all the bushings regardless. Is there a reasonable way to check the camber sans the laser stuff or the old school rotating platforms? I suspect if I take the extra leveling stuff out from under the springs taking it back to stock, the camber should at least be close. What's the tolerance on things like this?

 

[franklin2]

Check the balljoints, if they are good, leave them alone. Since you are just learning about your frontend, I can guess you have never changed the balljoints on one of these trucks. I have done a few, and it's a BIG job. You have start out at the hub, and work your way in, taking the spindle off which can be a job in itself, and busting the knuckle loose, and then getting a balljoint press and pressing the balljoints in and out.

If you do find they are worn, it's a good thing to go ahead and check the axle shaft u-joints, axle seals, etc. You don't want to do this again.

I believe you are correct also, if you took some of this lift out of the springs, it would bring the tire back into vertical. Drive it forward on level ground and stick a level on the side of the tire to check for being plumb. This will not be exact, but will definitely get you in the ballpark.

 

[laserjock]

I want to get it in the garage this weekend and start making my REALLY long list of stuff. Yeah, I've never done ball joints on one of these before. I have done them on other things. Back home there was a shop that would do a ball joint job and alignment on a half ton for about a $150. I didn't see much need to do them myself at that price. And he was good. If it comes apart, it will definitely be getting fresh seals and joints all around. No way would I want to do it twice. The good news is being a play toy, I'm in no rush to get it all done so if I get stuck, I can walk away and think about it a while. I've done a lot of stuff over the years but mainly on older Chevy's. This will be my first time going through all the mechanicals on one of these guys. I've been through several bits and pieces when I had the half ton a few years ago but nothing like I plan to do this time.

The problem is going to be that taking the lift out may cause me to have to back down on tire size. That was one of the newest parts on the truck so I hate to get rid of them.

Thanks for the help and insight!