Frame hardware

[laserjock]

I was making up my hardware list to start bolting all the stuff back onto my frame when suddenly I realized that the standard fasteners I had in hand to try for sizing didn't fit the holes in the frame too well. I guess I shouldn't be surprised they (rivet holes in particular) are closer to metric sizes. The Dorman spring hangers I got were supplied with metric hardware (10.9). I could ream the holes to the next larger standard size or go hunt metric hardware. What have you guys done?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

1/2" Grade-8 fine-pitch, torque to 100-110 lbs-ft. Test-fit your washers, you may find out 1/2" washers are a rather lousy fit, I actually use 7/16" washers usually as they tend to be perfect fit for the 1/2" bolts. Trow away any split-ring lock washers, they do not belong in chassis stuff. I prefer all-metal lock-nuts, you can also go nyloc if you so choose.

Ford's official procedure IIRC involved drilling holes up so that you can fit the next size up of standard (SAE) fine-pitch threaded hardware. Pretty sure I have the PDF somewhere, I'll post it if I ever find it. That metric BS is for the lazy, you may also wanna check the diameter of the bolts, 10mm is way too small but 12mm would be OK. At least they gave you the right strength of bolts, as "10.9" metric is about the same strength as Grade-8 standard. "8.8" metric would be around Grade-5, and "12.9" is holy overkill for this job

 

[laserjock]

I think the only holes that came out to be 10 mm where the core support mounts. All the heavy stuff to bolt back on are the overload brackets on the rear and the front spring mount/core support brackets on the front. The other hangers didn't come off the frame as they looked pretty good. No lock washers, as my buddy tells me constantly, they are an engineering abomination. Rear hangers came with metal locking nuts. I was thinking standard nuts and blue loc-tite but I have no objection to going nyloc. I will be re-torquing the ones already installed though but I'm not real sure how great a torque number could be with a locking fastener. They go on pretty tough.

Thanks for the input.

 

[ifrythings]

Use a stepper bit and run it to half inch, then use stovers with washers, i have removed almost every rivet on my frame and did it this way, all holes line up perfectly and you almost need to thread the bolt into the holes thats how tight of a fit you want. Ford says to do it this way also and put a small weld on the nut to the bolt so it doesnt come loose

 

[LCAM-01XA]

OK, now I'm confused, which Dorman hangers did you get? Cause you mention the rear ones came with locking nuts, but at the same time you say the only hangers you have to bolt on are front hangers? Regardless, don't look at the hole size in the frame, look at the bolts you have - 10mm is too small for a spring hanger or overload bracket, but 12mm would be OK. If you were supplied with 10mm bolts put them away for a future project and drill the holes out to 1/2" and use 1/2-20 hardware. If it's Grade-8 then I'd go on the high end of the torque specs (which for 1/2-20 thread would be 110 lbs-ft) since you're losing some via friction in the locking nuts. If you got 12mm with your Dorman hangers you can use them (chart says 83 lbs-ft, probably a few more should be added cause of lockunt tho), but personally I'd still go the 1/2-20 route there.

I would advise against welding on a Grade-8 fastener. Instead use loctite if you think the metal locknut alone will not be enough, red loctite if you're really paranoid.

 

[laserjock]

Sorry. Let me help clear this up. I already installed the Dorman rear sping hanger kits that came with the shackles. All 10.9 hardware although I am not sure what size... I believe it is bigger than 10mm. 10 mm is just over 3/8". It is probably 11 or 12 mm. As 11 mm is almost exactly 7/16 and 7/16 was a little loose in the holes, I'm going to say it is probably 12 mm. The things I have left to bolt on suspension related are the front spring hanger where the shackle and core support bracket goes and the overloads. The front spring hanger has 3 holes that are definitely 12 mm and 3 holes (where the core support bracket goes) that are smaller. 10 mm will fit the smaller holes snuggly while the larger holes will take a 12 (1/2 is just a little big). Now that I have everything painted, I hate to redrill the holes... I'm really kicking myself for not checking all of this sooner. Hopefully someone can learn from my mistakes.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

all the hangers Ive done ive used 7/16

 

[LCAM-01XA]

If you already got hardware that fits good, and it's of suitable strength (10.9 is), and upsizing is a pain (cause of paint), then run what you got. Those shackle hangers don't really see the beating the spring hangers (those under the cab) see anyways. Double check on the torque specs tho, there are tables with that info posted on the net, look up at least 2 different ones. Using a torque wrench is mandatory if you're anything like me, I can shear 1/2" Grade-8 bolts with a 3/8"-drive ratchet all day long, destroyed quite a few while doing my hangers before I finally gave up and got the torque wrench

 

[franklin2]

all the hangers Ive done ive used 7/16

Me too. Worked fine for me, no hole drilling.

Look how thick the material is that you are bolting too(the frame) and what you are bolting(the bracket). It's a little bit thicker than sheetmetal. If you are replacing rear brackets because of rust, I am sure your frame is getting thin in that area also. A washer on the frame would help somewhat. I ended up cutting a piece out of another frame, cutting the top of the "C" off and making it a "L", and then slipped that inside the frame to beef it up where it was pitted pretty bad. I did have to ream the holes out a little bit after doing this.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Washers on inside of frame are mandatory. Using a piece of another frame to make a backing plate is an excellent idea. I'd have probably taken the lazy/fast way about it tho, cut both top and bottom of the C and leave it as just a plate, it should slip right in then with no need to mess with the holes.

 

[laserjock]

The bolts and nuts in the Dorman kit where flanged nuts. That would seem an acceptable substitution I would think right? We really are not looking for a bearing surface here so much as to spread the load a bit right?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Flanged is good, no need for washers then, proceed as planned.

 

[ifrythings]

Body and Frame: All Technical Service Bulletins Frame - Rivet Replacement with Bolts Service Tip Article No. 97-4-7
02/17/97

FRAME - RIVET REPLACEMENT WITH BOLTS - SERVICE TIPS

LIGHT TRUCK: 
1980-96 BRONCO 
1980-97 ECONOLINE, 
F-150-350 SERIES 
1983-97 RANGER 
1984-90 BRONCO II 
1986-97 AEROSTAR 
1988-97 F SUPER DUTY, F-47 
1991-97 EXPLORER

This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to include 1997 model year vehicles.

ISSUE: 
Damaged or loose frame rivets should be replaced with approved service bolts. WELDING IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

ACTION: 
If service is required, replace standard rivets with approved service bolts. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE

NOTE : 
      THE "HUCK" RIVET BETWEEN THE # 1 CROSSMEMBER AND THE LH FRAME RAIL SHOULD BE SERVICED PER TSB 91-25-18. THIS PROCEDURE DOES NOT APPLY.

1.Inspect for a loose or damaged rivet.

2.Remove any damaged or loose rivets.
    
    a.Drill a 3.175 mm (1/8") hole through the rivet.

    b.Redrill the same hole through the shank of the rivet.

        ^Use an 8.731 mm (11/32") drill for 3/8" and 10 mm rivets.

        ^Use a 9.525 mm (3/8") drill for 11.113 mm (7/16") rivets.

    c.Remove the rivet head with an air chisel.

    d.Drive out the rivet with a punch and hammer.

3.Line ream the hole to the replacement bolt nominal size with a hole tolerance of +/- 0.127 mm (0.005").

4.Free hole of burrs after reaming to allow bolt head and nut to seat properly.

5.Select the bolt length to have a minimum of two (2) threads protruding from outer face of nut. Refer to the following Bolt Selection Chart for correct parts usage.

NOTE : 
       IF A FLANGE HEAD NUT AND BOLT ARE NOT AVAILABLE, GRADE 5 HEX HEADS MAY BE SUBSTITUTED WITH ONE (1) FLATWASHER REQUIRED UNDER THE NUT AND ONE (1) FLATWASHER REQUIRED UNDER THE BOLT HEAD.

6.Check to be sure there is a 12.7 mm (1/2") minimum clearance of bolt to adjacent components, except engine and transmission, 
  which must have at least 19.05 mm (3/4") clearance to allow for powertrain roll.

7.Tighten the bolts to the specifications shown in the Bolt Selection Chart.

         Rivet Diameter         Bolt Size                     Torque Specification 
         3/8" and 10mm          7/16"-14 1.25"                33-50   lb-ft
                                7/16"-14 1.75"                33-50   lb-ft

         7/16"                  1/2"-13 1.50" Grade 5         53-75   lb-ft
                                1/2"-13 2.00" Grade 8         75-105  lb-ft

NOTE : 
      GRADE 8 BOLTS MAY BE SUBSTITUTED FOR ANY APPLICATION.

Parts Block
OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 96-4-11
SUPERSEDES: 96-15-11 
WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage For 1992-97 Model Year Vehicles, Basic Warranty Coverage For All Other Model Year Vehicles
OPERATIONDESCRIPTIONTIME
970407AReplace Rivet0.5 Hr.
DEALER CODING
CONDITION BASIC PART NO.CODE 500557
OASIS CODES: 304000, 305000, 390000