Ford/New Holland 1620 Tractor questions

['94IDITurbo7.3]

I know this is probly not the best place for this thread so mods feel free to move to more appropriate place.

We have a new holland 1620 compact tractor with a I-3 cyinder diesel engine. last winter we were useing it and it started to get a lot of blow by and would hardly start and then if it did start it would run rough and smoke like a mother.

so we did a comp test and the front 2 cylinders were within spec but the back cylinder was terrible. i don't remember the numbers. so we put new rings in it and had the head machined.

We put everything back together and it was back to what we know as normal. still not that great. it has always started hard. cold starts usually take 2 glow plug cycles and warm starts take 1 cycle unless it has just been shut off. once it did start it would cough and smoke white smoke.

well early this past summer we were cutting grass and noticed it was making a lot of blow by again. did a comp check and it was 400 psi on the front 2 cyl and 120 on the back one. that check was with the engine cold. at that point we figured the block needed machining. so we left it sit. that was with 30 hrs on it since the engine work.

today we go to start it to take the loader off and we cycle the plugs twice and it fires right off. it smoked black/grey smoke and very little white. we did what we had to do and we thought for kicks we would do a comp test again with the engine warm. all 3 cyl were 400 psi. speck is 425+-50psi iirc. tommorow we will check the comp again with the engine cold.

i used a steathescope (stick of wood) to listen to the valve train and it was noisy. i then listened to the injectors. the two front ones were about the same sound. the back one though was noticably louder and more "pingy". i also listened to the block and that was quiet. it seems that our noise is coming from the valve train and/or injectors. i also listened to the injectors that send fuel out of the IP and all three of them sounded differnet and none of them sounder exactly healthy. especially cyl#3 again.


When we tore the engine down last winter the back cyl, #3, was in tough shape as far as carbon build up. the top of the piston was black with carbon and the sides of the piston were all black. the rings had to be dug out of the piston they were so bad. the other two pistons were clean.

we had the injectors pop tested at the new holland dealer and they said that they popped off fine.

The thing we don't understand is how the comp seems to have "fixed" itself.
when we first started it today it had a little to much blow by out the oil fill neck on the valve cover. as it warmed up the blowby went away and is now completely gone. what could cause this?
Does this issue sound like it is fuel system related? i have heard on here you guys say to feel the injector lines with the engine running to see if they are warm. i did this. the two front injector lines were cool. the back injector line was a little warm.

Ideas?
Sorry for the novel
Thanks

 

[RLDSL]

Sticky rings, very common in diesels. What you need is not a rebuild, but a treatment of Auto Rx to clean those rings out and then once you get the rings all cleaned out, get that sucker converted over to synthetic oil because it obviously has a severe problem with handling soot and varnish and yout present oil just isnt doing it. You need a high end diesel rated synthetic to keep the thing running clean , and adding a bypass filter would be a VERY good idea.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

we run 15W40 Rotella Diesel oil. but from what i have read on here, rotella is not all that great.

 

[RLDSL]

we run 15W40 Rotella Diesel oil. but from what i have read on here, rotella is not all that great.

Oh so true, and tractors sit a bunch, then you fire them up run at hard load , then shut them down again to sit and nobody, self included rarely ever takes them and blows them out after working them, it's just a pain and after working you dont think about it. I let my 3 cyl diesel IH 284 sit for months sometimes and it always fires right up and does it's job, but I really should blow it out before parking it, one of these days I'll remember. It's never complained

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

I told my dad about the auto rx and switching to a full synth diesel oil. he liked what you guys have said about the rx. so i think we will start there.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

are oil filters for deisel engines built different for a diesel vs. a gas engine? i ask b/c my dad has been useing a fram oil filter for a long time now. it is a gasser filter. i think it is the ph16 fram. we used that filter b/c the new holland filters were so damn expensive. could this cause an issue? if so then we will definatley switch back to new holland filters, unless there is another less expensive yet good quality filter.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

how do the bypass filters work and what needs to be done to modify/use that setup? pics would be great.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i checked on the auto-rx site and they recomend for best cleaning to use a non synthetic oil. should i use the rx with a synthetic or non synthetic.

 

[Clayton]

Follow the directions to a T.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

we just orderd 4 bottles of rx. 2 for tractor, 2 for my truck. we are going to use the same oil i use in my truck. Valvoline heavy duty diesel 15W40 non-synthetic.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Yeah, get rid of those Fram filters. Wix is so much better. As far as oils, read this. The top oils keep the soot in suspension much better, that's what I would use with the Auto-RX. Change the filter about half way thru the 1st treatment.
RLDSL introduced me to Auto-RX, really works good.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/TDR57_Oil.pdf

BEST OIL's
Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
17.36 8 Shell Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
21.89 12 Cummins/Valvoline Premium Blue Syn. 5W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
9.98 13 Pennzoil Long Life 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
10.88 14 Chevron Delo 400 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4 plus
35.00 20 Red Line Diesel Synthetic 15W40 CI-4 plus CI-4


Good
10.36 2 NAPA Universal Fleet Plus 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
25.70 10 Amsoil 5W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
13.51 15 Caterpillar DEO 15W40 CI-4 CI-4 plus
12.68 16 John Deere Plus-50 15W40 CI-4 CI-4
19.99 18 Lucas 15/40 Magnum 15W40 CI-4 CI-4

WORST OIL'S
10.96 4 Shell Rotella T Triple Protection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
27.55 9 Amsoil Premium Synthetic 5W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
10.80 11 Castrol Tection 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4
12.99 17 Chevron Delo 400 LE 15W40 CJ-4 CJ-4

 

[OLDBULL8]

Here is a web site on tractors you can hunt around in.
http://www.ytmag.com/articles/restore/8ncarb/artint231_pg5.htm

 

[RLDSL]

i checked on the auto-rx site and they recomend for best cleaning to use a non synthetic oil. should i use the rx with a synthetic or non synthetic.

Use the non synthetic while doing the entire cleaning . Follow the directions. THe make up on a synthetic will fight with the cleaner and they will work agaisnt each other. KEep an eye on your oil, if it's getting REAL nasty while running it, change an extra filter mid way during cleaning or your filter may go into bypass.

 

[RLDSL]

how do the bypass filters work and what needs to be done to modify/use that setup? pics would be great.

Bypass filters take a small amount of oil out of the regular flow at a time and divert it to a high density filter element that will filter the oil down to around 2 microns ( where even the absolute best full flow oil filter will only filter down to about 20 ) Do do this it has to flow slowly through the tight element then it returns it to the engine. Usually you can add a T where the pressure sender is and then rig a return fitting into the valve cover or some similar spot . It trickles back in under almost no pressure as the hole in the filter head it flows back through is the size of a pin.

You can also get setups that have a full flow and bypass on an external head with hoses that would attach to where your current full flow filter sits now and an adapter at the end of the hoses would replace your current full flow filter. This is the easiest type to mount on a setup like that , but if the rig is used in heavy brush conditions, not always advisable unless the hoses can be routed behind guards due to the risk of snagging a full flow oil line.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

thanks for the info guys, especially oldbull.

we did a comp test on the engine with it cold and all three cylinders were right at 250. so we know that it is not a piston, ring, cylinder wall problem with the far back cyl.