flywheel & clutch

gunnie

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hey guys, on my 94 f350 5 speed, when i let out on the clutch slowly the truck bucks and jumps, if i let out quickly it takes off better, much less buckin and snortin, so i guess its time for a new flywheel? no noise when i shut the truck down from that area, but only thing i can come up with, any suggestions? and if you guys agree what flywheel do you recommend?
thanks, gunnnie
 

geonc

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How many miles on it {if known}?

You say there is no noise when you shut down.....is this with the clutch in or out?

All diesel clutch mfr's reccomend shutting down with the clutch depressed = disengaged......reportedly to ease the shock when the eng bumps against the high compression of especially natural aisperated IDI's.

Remove the inspection cover and use a large screwdriver to see how much slop is actually in the flywheel---"IF" it is a dual mass f/w there should be no more than 1/2" and that is pretty much max.

Both LUK and South Bend are the preferred units with LUK leading for the IDI crowd converting to a single mass style---HIGHLY reccomended ;Sweet

Expect to pay about $600 US for a LUK unit that includes new single mass f/w with pilot brg, friction disc, press plate, throw out brg, new f/w bolts and alignment tool.



An alternative flywheel mod that has been done by quite a few is The Lucky mod however you will still need to purchase the correct pressure plate and disc.

Either way, don't forget to include a new rear main seal :D
 

Ceejmo

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My wife's truck does the same thing. It has a brand new clutch, solid flywheel and all. My Dodge also does it.
But, we take off in second. We never take off in granny unless we're pullin' horses.
 

LUCKY_LARUE60

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geonc said:
Expect to pay about $600 US for a LUK unit that includes new single mass f/w with pilot brg, friction disc, press plate, throw out brg, new f/w bolts and alignment tool.



An alternative flywheel mod that has been done by quite a few is The Lucky mod however you will still need to purchase the correct pressure plate and disc.

Either way, don't forget to include a new rear main seal :D

George, with my mod you do not need to purchase a new pressure plate if the old one is in good shape and as for the disk, make sure the disk has springs in the center. Just clearing up misimformation, there has been some on another site and someone is haveing to redo a clutch job do to some misimformation......... Jim
 

imfixinmopars

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you might want to ck the reat trans mount,and the lh motor mount as well.i had the same problem and replaced the rr mount and found the rubber to be cracked and not supporting the trans movement.it seems to help a lot,for 10.00,good luck.
 

towcat

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imfixinmopars said:
you might want to ck the reat trans mount,and the lh motor mount as well.i had the same problem and replaced the rr mount and found the rubber to be cracked and not supporting the trans movement.it seems to help a lot,for 10.00,good luck.
bad trans mounts are also the leading culprit for cracked bellhousings. excessive pedal effort is the cause but bad trans mounts allow the trans to move around too much.
 

gunnie

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the flywheel has 140,000 on it i've had it since it was new, replaced the clutch and pressure plate about 20,000 ago when i switched this engine and trans out of the original 89 3/4 ton and put it into the '94, the bucking has gotten continuously worse, i've checked the mounts all seem to be good, would you tell me the advantage of a single mass over dual?
thanks, gunnie
also, i've been reading what i can find, is the release smooth with a smf or does it somewhat chatter?
 
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geonc

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LUCKY_LARUE60 said:
George, with my mod you do not need to purchase a new pressure plate if the old one is in good shape and as for the disk, make sure the disk has springs in the center. Just clearing up misimformation, there has been some on another site and someone is haveing to redo a clutch job do to some misimformation......... Jim

:thanks: for that info Jim :cheers:
I wasn't sure if the pressure plate was compatible.

Towcat and mopars ;Sweet on the mounts....

I do know that with both the South Bend and LUK units, there is more clamping force and an easier pedal.
The increased clamp force is due in part to the larger diameter, either 1/2" or 3/4" if I'm not mistaken.

Gunnie, when you replaced the pressure plate and friction disc, did you have the f/w surfaced and install a new pilot shaft bushing?
 
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