Fluid chnage in E4OD throws a code!

[FORDF250HDXLT]

oh oh i see.yes i remember this now.i know what #3 is talking about in the ATSG.
ok.so see this..hmm i wonder if i have a better pic.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=50601&d=1401558024

^on that shaft is a "split seal" i'll see if i have a sideways pic of this.anyway what it's saying there if if this seal is bad,then it's going to bleed by and frig up lockup too.

man it's not easy remembering all this stuff that you research and learn for while your in there.it's quickly forgotten if your not a "trans guy" by trade.
ok.in the attached pic it shows them on the pump fairly good.iirc there are two:

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[tbrumm]

Thanks for the awesome pictures FORDF250HDXLT. Fluid is not foaming (at least no bubbles on stick) and fluid is at correct level. I tested the pack for resistance and that seems to be in spec. I have not yet set up a light in the cab to test the TECA lockup signal. TransGo instructions mention an "led" - is a special led needed? So, I run a pin through the TCC wire, attach a wire up to the cab and connect wire to light, then connect other light wire to ground? Sounds simple enough.

 

[trackspeeder]

That is indeed good to know! I had seen where many trans builders won't even accept a pre '95 E4OD as a core! I have to say, perhaps the best plan would be to get a cheaper converter and just install that and hope the trans continues on for a while. Either I save up money for a future trans build or start looking for a 5 speed donor truck. Guess it is a good thing that I haven't towed much with the stock E4OD - it probably wouldn't have tolerated much. I have now owned 3 Ford automatics in recent history, (always bought manual trans before but they get harder and harder to find) and every one of them has had problems despite proper maintenance. The TC in my 1997 Ranger was going out at 130k and I sold it before I had to deal with it. The TC is my Wife's 2003 Explorer went out at 121k and sent debris through the trans requiring a rebuild. And now the TC on my 1994 F350 at 93k. Hmmm-seems to be pattern here. I know the newer manuals have their own problems too (dual mass flywheels, clutch replacement). It just gets hard to justify a $3-4k trans rebuild (and removal and install) in a truck that is worth 5-6k at the most. It is more justified if you are making money with the truck as opposed to the truck just being a daily driver and occasional hauler. OK, I have cried in my beer long enough - on to solutions!
So, is it still "worth it" to install the Tugger kit if I throw in a cheaper TC and don't do anything else to the trans?

A good tranny builder will use any year for a core. Well except for 89, the one year wonder. Most updates were done to the gear train and pump. Those parts can be can be swapped to any year tranny.
You can have a 92 case with 98 internals. The only way to tell whats in your tranny, is to open it up.

Do instal the whole tugger kit. Even if you use a stock spec converter. Change the pump seal with a Viton seal. Check the pump bushings while you have it apart. A worn or out of place bushing can waste that new seal.

 

[trackspeeder]

oh oh i see.yes i remember this now.i know what #3 is talking about in the ATSG.
ok.so see this..hmm i wonder if i have a better pic.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=50601&d=1401558024

^on that shaft is a "split seal" i'll see if i have a sideways pic of this.anyway what it's saying there if if this seal is bad,then it's going to bleed by and frig up lockup too.

man it's not easy remembering all this stuff that you research and learn for while your in there.it's quickly forgotten if your not a "trans guy" by trade.
ok.in the attached pic it shows them on the pump fairly good.iirc there are two:

You must be registered for see images attach

The ring seals in this photo are for the coast clutch A single rings seal on the opposite side is for the converter lock up. (Hidden inside your converter.)

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

oh! ok.close but no cigar on that one then. thanks bother.

 

[tbrumm]

You guys are probably gettin' tired of my updates-just get the darn thing fixed already! I replaced the tach sensor on Sunday and decided I would again clean the TECU connector and the connectors on the inner fender under the brake master cylinder just be sure they were super clean. When I drove the truck on Monday, the light came on almost immediately. That sure seems like a bad connection to me. Cleared the code yet again. Light stayed off longer this time, like 20 miles or so . On the way home tonight, I was watching the tach while running up a hill. At 55 mph, I should be turning about 1600rpm. I looked at the tach and it was at about 1900 rpm. I just started to think, that rpm is too high and the converter is not locked up when the blasted light came on! Hmmmm. I have yet to get my test light set up to monitor when the TECU is telling the TC solenoid to lock the computer, but I will doing the Thursday or Friday. There may still be an electrical problem going on here. The truck felt "sluggish" today, but it was only 2° this morning - I felt a little sluggish too.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

when you think she unlocked,quickly hit the hazard lights.that will kick off the converters ability to lock.if you don't see the spike in the rpms then the converter is for sure already unlocked.we're not getting tired of your updates! we're right here with ya routing for ya! go pats!!!.......oh no wait.im used to saying that. go tbrumm!

 

[trackspeeder]

You guys are probably gettin' tired of my updates-just get the darn thing fixed already! I replaced the tach sensor on Sunday and decided I would again clean the TECU connector and the connectors on the inner fender under the brake master cylinder just be sure they were super clean. When I drove the truck on Monday, the light came on almost immediately. That sure seems like a bad connection to me. Cleared the code yet again. Light stayed off longer this time, like 20 miles or so . On the way home tonight, I was watching the tach while running up a hill. At 55 mph, I should be turning about 1600rpm. I looked at the tach and it was at about 1900 rpm. I just started to think, that rpm is too high and the converter is not locked up when the blasted light came on! Hmmmm. I have yet to get my test light set up to monitor when the TECU is telling the TC solenoid to lock the computer, but I will doing the Thursday or Friday. There may still be an electrical problem going on here. The truck felt "sluggish" today, but it was only 2° this morning - I felt a little sluggish too.

Never tired of updates. Gives me something to read. Now go fix the darn thing. Don't forget the update.;p

 

[direwulf23]

+2 ^

 

[tbrumm]

I am now getting the dreaded code 62 within about 10 minutes of driving after clearing the code, but still no shudder or chatter from the TC. The TC still seems to lock fine. Anyway, I decided to pull the trans harness out of the truck today and check continuity from the two connectors that reside on the fender under the brake MC to the solenoid connector. All wires checked fine.
Harness out of truck

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harness side Solenoid pack connector

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Connectors under brake MC

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MLPS connector-note broken tab and corrosion

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Checking continuity with digital multimeter

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The MLPS sensor connector has a broken tab (but not from my watch!), so it is a bit loose and there was some corrosion inside. I don't imagine this would have anything to do with my code 62, would it?? Has the MLPS design been updated? When I looked on line for a replacement connector pigtail, the sensor and connector look "different" from the two tab connector in my truck. Hopefully, I will get my test light hooked up tomorrow so I can monitor the TECU lockup signal.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i dunno if something corroded there could cause 62 or not? then again,what can't cause code 62 it seems lol!
but nonetheless that's no good.yes it's been updated.this will come with the instructions on how to re-pin it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5BYOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

your being very wise.your being very thorough.you've been down the road where tossing parts at it and hoping hasn't worked out you can tell.

 

[trackspeeder]

I am now getting the dreaded code 62 within about 10 minutes of driving after clearing the code, but still no shudder or chatter from the TC. The TC still seems to lock fine. Anyway, I decided to pull the trans harness out of the truck today and check continuity from the two connectors that reside on the fender under the brake MC to the solenoid connector. All wires checked fine.
Harness out of truck

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harness side Solenoid pack connector

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Connectors under brake MC

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MLPS connector-note broken tab and corrosion

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Checking continuity with digital multimeter

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The MLPS sensor connector has a broken tab (but not from my watch!), so it is a bit loose and there was some corrosion inside. I don't imagine this would have anything to do with my code 62, would it?? Has the MLPS design been updated? When I looked on line for a replacement connector pigtail, the sensor and connector look "different" from the two tab connector in my truck. Hopefully, I will get my test light hooked up tomorrow so I can monitor the TECU lockup signal.

MLPS has been replaced by the Transmission Range Sensor. This was part of the 95 upgrades. You can get it at any auto parts store. It will come with a new connector and instructions.

Depending on the parts store, you might have to give this part another name. Neutral safety switch is the most common (wrong name) but it avoids the two headed look.

 

[tbrumm]

I ordered out a new transmission range sensor so I didn't have to deal with the "two headed look". In the meantime, I cleaned up the connector on the old one. Took the truck for a drive tonight and no code! I know, too early to tell and is probably just coincidence, but I had been getting the light flashing pretty quickly. I also got my led hooked up to tell me when the TECU is sending the signal to lock the TC. I backprobed pin 4 (purple/yelllow) in solenoid harness connector with a safety pin, after soldering a length of wire to the pin. Ran the wire into the cab and soldered that to 12v LED I bought at Radio Shack. Connected other lead of LED to ground-bolt under dash. The LED stays lit when the TC is unlocked and goes out when the TECU sends the signal to the solenoid to lock the TC. From my 40 minute drive tonight, the TECU seems to be sending the signal to lock when it should. The TC locks at about 35 mph, and unlocks for a very "quick blip" of the LED when changing gears and then immediately re-locks and the LED goes out. Of course, the LED comes back on at any speed as soon as you completely take your foot off the throttle, indicating that the TC is unlocked during coast. I will drive it this week and see what it does, but right now, it seems as if the TECU is fine.

 

[tbrumm]

So the computer seems to be fine. The led is going out when it seems like it should be indicating that the computer is telling the TC to lock. However, I am now getting the OD OFF light flashing within about 5-10 miles of clearing the code 62. Still no shudder or chatter from the TC, but the slip is apparently getting worse. I have noticed that when gradually slowing down, say between 35mph and 25mph, the led will stay off until the speedo hits about 25, indicating the computer is still telling the TC to remain locked. I guess I figured if the TC doesn't lock until about 35mph, then it should unlock at 35 mph, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Anyway, I guess it is time I get serious about replacing the TC. I ordered out the RacerX high performance front pump seal, seperator plate/valve body gasket set (for when the Tugger kit goes in - I understand those gaskets are not included in the kit?) and transfer case to trans gasket. In addition to the new TC, Transgo Tugger Kit and synthetic trans fluid, what else should I be purchasing before I take it to the trans shop? I see Superior has a "pump correction kit" http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/291263383269?lpid=82and I assume the Tugger kit will have the parts to mod the pump like this kit would. However, the Superior kit also has new bushing. Any thoughts here? Duplicated parts? Not necessary? Any other parts that could be relatively easy to replace while the trans is out? I am not going to have the trans torn down, but if the pump has to come out for the mods, and there would something to do to maybe increase longevity or prevent future leaks, I would do that. Thanks for your input, guys!

 

[anotheridi]

All our parts showed up to replace the TC on my brothers truck, I hope to start Friday night and be done Saturday. Our parts list is
Dacco converter
Ford converter to flex plate nuts ( these are one time use)
Transgo tugger kit
Updated trans pan with drain
Filter/gasket
That pump stopper thing in f250xlts tugger install article.
And the pump/converter gasket
20 gallons of fluid
I think that's it, I'll let you know how it goes, with the trans out of the way I'll be closely inspecting all wiring also.