First start of the morning on rebuild

ferrellmedia

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I have now solved my cold start issue, but have another issue.

On the first start of the day until the truck warms to normal operating tempature, the truck smokes a blueish smoke at idle.

Once the truck warms up, this goes away.

I know that with just the information on this post it's hard to say, but any ideas?

I think, if the rebuilder used new rings this would happen correct?

If not new rings, then what could this be?
 

icanfixall

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How many miles are on the rebuild... Have you "worked" the motor yet... What I'm asking have you towed anything heavy. These motors are work motors. We don't baby them on breakin. They go directly to work like a big rig does. If the are babyed the cylinders get fuel varnish built up on them... Thats hard to wear off.. Usually it needs to be machined off. The cylinders and rings must be hot enough to burn off the oil so this doesn't happen. Sounds like you haven't gotten the rings seated yet by the discription you posted.
 

ferrellmedia

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I'm searching for a heavy trailer to borrow for next weekend to make a drive down to key west for the day.

But if the motor was not re-ringed, because I honestly do not know, what could this be?
 

seawalkersee

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Low compression, leaking injectors, out of IP being out of time. I would still go with the engine not being seated as the cause.

SWS
 

ferrellmedia

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UPDATE

No more blue smoke, or any smoke for that matter in the morning.

I beleive what others have written here, have not verified the compression yet.

Cold compression test on this engine with block on engine stand only returned 250 - 275 across all 8 cylinders.

I've been told this is normal as the combination of cold engine and new, unseated rings wouldn't turn in high compression numbers.

Last step is replacing all 8 injectors, since I don't have turbo, think I'm sticking with the E code injectors, new.

Once I've replaced these, I will take it into the stealership to get it timed and compression tested again for sh*t's and giggles...
 

seawalkersee

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250-275? Kind of low still. But if it is getting broken in, they will only go up.

SWS
 

sassyrel

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UPDATE

No more blue smoke, or any smoke for that matter in the morning.

I beleive what others have written here, have not verified the compression yet.

Cold compression test on this engine with block on engine stand only returned 250 - 275 across all 8 cylinders.

I've been told this is normal as the combination of cold engine and new, unseated rings wouldn't turn in high compression numbers.

Last step is replacing all 8 injectors, since I don't have turbo, think I'm sticking with the E code injectors, new.

Once I've replaced these, I will take it into the stealership to get it timed and compression tested again for sh*t's and giggles...

ferrell--PLEASE listen to what the guys have told you--you need to find a GOOD compression gauge--and if its above 375--ok. if not,get the heavy trailer behind it--and pull the snot out of it--your being told the truth--you will never seat them rings driving it around empty--it needs to be pulled============HARD============, to make the rings seat--if in fact its been rebuilt or rerung--but--its your truck---
 

damac

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I got a harbor freight compression gage kit for like $26 a couple weeks ago because no shop around here had one to rent.

There glowplug adapter is threaded correct but shaped all wrong, you cannot even screw it in. So cutoff the tip right below the threads, then cutoff the extra on that cut piece above the check valve. Solder that to the old glowplug and you have your adaptor :)

You can also use an old glowplug and a typical air hose fitting and solder that if you want to introduce air into the cylinders for testing other stuff.

As far as readings I drove mine around for a while before coming to a stop, then yanked the glowplugs and tested. I got from 385-440 on all mine on this tired clunker. Still not sure what issues we may have right now.

But reguardless of that my gage seemed to hold and the numbers actually were very close on a second run and from a diesel mechanic shop??

Are people saying the gages are junk in that they won't last or the readings are incorrect? Perhaps they are getting damaged units from the get go which could happen to any brand name part.

Wouldn't surprise me though if the part ends up not lasting. Harbor freight is hit or miss with me, there have been tools we have abused for years, and some break before being used.
 

THECACKLER

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From my point of view, test equipment is used to make decisions and needs to be trust worthy. I screwed up last year with good equipment that had an EPA mandated add-on device that malfunctioned. I spent several hundred dollars and many hours that I didn't have to if I would have realized the gauge wasn't indicating pressure correctly because of a faulty "Anti-Blow-Back" device.
 

f-two-fiddy

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I installed Autolight's from Bennet Auto @ 8.99 each.

I went by the stealership and they wanted 20.00 each, so I went to Bennet.

Why are there some glow plugs which suck?

Also, I put the same "anti-seieze" on the glowplug threads I used on the injectors in hopes that if I ever have to take them out it will be easier.

Have You replaced those GP's yet?

If not, Do it right away. They are total junk, and will cause You great headaches in the near future!
 

Diesel JD

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I think your compression numbers were incorrect. Ford and IH said test them through the glow plug hole. It shouldn't make any difference but in order to have valid and comparable results to everyone else you should probably do what others do. I tend to agree with the others about the glow plugs, those autolites have a bad rep, especially with the older glow plug system, I don't know what happens on the 87 and later solid state but on the 6.9 system they would typically fail and stick in the head very often causing you to risk engine damage or have to pull the head. The motorcraft glow plugs are probably cheap insurance. I've still got the same set of MC ZD9s that I added when I switched my 86 over to the solid state system except for 2 that I replaced in the last couple of years. Both came out with no fuss even though they were dead and burned out. As far as the fuel system is concerned, do you plan to keep this truck bone stock or would you consider adding a turbo at some time? In either case you don't want anything but delphi BB code injectors. Russ(Typ4) and Mel(Agnem) sell new matched sets here. You can get remans all day long from Pensacola Diesel cheap, although the quality probably isn't quite as good. Even if you do turbo, the BBs and a stock pump will do just fine, unless you really get the mod bug and intercool and go crazy on it. And if I recall you DO have a good hill to pull on...."Mount Trashmore" on the turnpike right LOL
 

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