first post and a question

Dambnicetruck

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I hate to mention it , but after the big "C" breaks through, you heat up almost instantly when you start up, and there is no cure. If its cavitation you need a sleeve job. Hope its not. Secondly, if you turned up your pump, and you don't have an aneroid, you will be overfueling big time at low rpms. It will heat you up big time, especially if you havn't got the bigger down pipe on your turbo, or an intercooler. I hate to say it though, it sounds like the big "C".
 

F350camper

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Darrin Tosh said:
That is correct Charlie, the fan will allways "spin", just not the same RPM as the motor, unless the clutch is fully engaged.



Not really EZ, It just may not be locking up when it gets hot. I would say with your High Performance Diesel, put a MS-TEC Clutch on it. I heard my fan clutch for the first time last week with the new clutch on it, but I haven't had a chance to pull the 5th wheel yet. That will be the REAL test!


Only thing I'll add is replacing my fan clutch solved my cooling problems. Like Darrin said, I couldn’t ever hear mine coming on before, but now on a 90°+ day that thing roars like a banshee. Makes the AC work better also.
 

Exekiel69

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yes they could bring that up, but they already know i have a turbo on it and that i replaced the crd for an rdt. It could be possible to blow the head gasket with the turbo and i think that is wy they want me to do the test.

Now i just came back from pulin a trailer with 8k pounds of brick the trailer could not take any more weight and the truck handle it fine. some times i have to go on 2nd gear cause of the hill too long and to high many curves. The temp was from 200 to 210 most of the time and up to 220 one or two times on some hill. I will give it a try and get the fan clutch and see wath happen.

Exekiel.
 

Exekiel69

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"I hate to say it though, it sounds like the big "C"."

How can i tell if it is? the engine is being this hot since they installed it, jasper sleeve's ONLY the cylinders that need to be sleeved, so that could be an option.

Now, wath is an aneroid?

thank you, Exekiel.
 

LandscapeMan

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Agnem said:
EZ, I just had a thought that I'll throw out to you. If you get in a situation where Jasper is going to replace your engine, keep in mind that the turbo could be an excuse to void your warranty. If that should appear possible, it may become necessary to return the engine to stock prior to their getting their mitts on it. I'm still interested to find out how your comparison with Charlie's truck goes. Hopefully you can borrow KennyD's infrared temperature gun and compare directly. Sounds like Jasper thinks maybe you have a head gasket leak, but I don't know about those hydrocarbon pills or whatever. A radiator presure tester may yeild more information.


Good point Mel,
I advised EZ of same before he put on Mods. I just got off the horn with KennyD. I am heading to Westminster now to pick up heat gun.

Darrin, thank you for the clarafication!
Charlie
 

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EZ,
I will shoot you a email with location. I am on my way now to check the site to make sure it is not underwater. If it is to wet to work. We can meet at my property where we dropped off the camper. I will be in touch.
Charlie
 

LandscapeMan

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EZ and Charlies Temp comparison

Well,
EZ came by and we took some temps with the Heat Gun.
It turned out to be difficult to get a apples to apples comparison.
I towed my exacvator in the morning. But my truck had cooled down. I let it idle for 1/2 hr. with the AC on but could not get it up to operating temp.
So we shoot temps on EZ's truck. Could not get anything over 200 degrees.

We pulled both rad caps and ran trucks. You can't see any visable flow in either one. EZ coolant level rose and fell a tad bit more than mine.

To get my truck warm to make a better comparison. I towed my excavator about 5 miles. 20,000 lb. total combined weight. With AC on.

We then stopped at a park and ride. Turn off engine and both (EZ and me)
rads were about 200 degrees. Idle for 5 minutes with AC. Both dropped to about 180 degrees top hose.. 140 bottom hose on mine and 130 bottom :thumbsup: :thumbsup: hose on EZ. Before EZ new rad he was only showing a 20 degree difference. Now his is 50 degrees!

Ok the strange thing is EZ says his temps still run up while he is driving. And go up even more when he is in 5th. That just does not make sence to me. More air flow and less RPM in 5th and it still gets hotter. And EZ drives much more like me than Travis.

Now the question is. Does EZ's fan clutch work? Could explain his temps under load. I don't know how to check his fan clutch. Some one else will have to explain that one.

I believe EZ gauge is accurate.

As I have no accessory gauge I can only guess at my temps at speed.

The temps on my 2 trans coolers. 130 degress on the first inline cooler and 105 degrees on the second in line cooler.

So I really did not get a good apples to apples comparison. As I was hooked up to the excavator or idling no load. And EZ was already warm (hot) and running empty.

So.............. Fan clutch test advise???

Any more theories?

Charlie
 

argve

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That is about what I had going on.

I say do the big rad and modded fan clutch and don't look back. I know after installing both of those I never had a problem with cooling - now heat in the wintertime that was a different story (had to run a winter cover).
 

Agnem

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EZ's truck is a manual, and Charlies is an automatic. EZ shouldn't even need a fan clutch not towing at highway speeds. If his lower hose is cooler than his upper hose, we can definitely assume that his water pump is flowing in the right direction. It's a real stumper!
 

Exekiel69

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Thank you Charlie for taking the time to check temps on both trucks :thumbsup: , he was just driving the excavator back on the trailer when i got to his job site and it was hot in there and we where still geting around both engines as hot as it was next to them cookoo

I will order the fan clutch Travis said and get back with results. Now i do remember Ken saying the same thing Mel posted, with a manual tranny you can drive it with no fan and still stay cool. I drove the truck today with some load and the ac runing and temp was allways under 210 this time but not lower than 200 at any point of the day.

Thank you, Exekiel.
 

Exekiel69

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I ordered the modified fan clutch today. Travis passed me the link so i will post back on the results. One thing the guys said is that he strongly recomend to install a 180f thermostat instead of the one i installed 2 weeks ago 192f from motorcraft :confused:. I believe that could solve my overheating problem. Wath do you guys think of the thermostat thing? cookoo

is it really going to make a diference with this thermostat or i'm fine with the one i installed?

thank you, Exekiel.
 

analog

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If your 192 degree t-stat is working properly, and your water is still getting hotter than 192, I don't see how a 180 will change anything at all. It will open at 180, so might take 2-3 minutes longer to get hot. Have you boil tested your current t-stat to make sure it is opening properly?
 

Exekiel69

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no, i did not test the tstat, but he said that he really recomended to use the one set for 180 instead of the one i bought and installed 2 weeks ago, Motorcraft. This is my question, wath diference could it make?

thank you, Exekiel.
 

analog

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I've only heard of using a cooler t-stat when your engine is already running at the t-stat temp consistently and you want cooler temps. If you can't get it to stay at the 192 temp, then how is having a t-stat that stays open at 180 going to help? I think it's a load of crap.

But, it could be his way of trying to convince you to try a new t-stat. You know, "here try this new and improved part" but in reallity, they just really want you to put in a new part. I did it all the time in the computer tech support business to get customers to do something they swore didn't need to be done.
 

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