Finished Turbo Install

[catbird7]

Strokin, please provide more info on "upgraded housing". Where they can be bought, approximate cost, etc. Our trucks appear to be somewhat similar other than year, 1989 F-350 4x4 7.3 Turbo IDI ZF 5Speed 4:10 gears reg cab long bed SRW XLT Lariat 315/75-16 BFG All Terrains On Alum Wheels (stainless centers) ATS 093 3" Outlet to 4" Stainless Diamond Eye. BB Code Injectors, SM Fly Wheel 301,000 miles.

 

[79jasper]

Same here catbird. I couldn't hear my turbo at all until about a week ago. Changed the exhaust housing a put an upgraded one on it and it whistles like its on steroids now. I'm battling boost issues also . Fuel screw is maxed , runs like a ***** ape, but I'm getting 0 psi on a brand new 0-30 isspro. Gauge even fully cycles with the key on n off. Fml

You should try a needle pressure gauge where you have your electrical boost sender.
Even with a fairly decent leak, you should still be showing some boost.


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[Still Strokin]

Yea I'm getting nothing on boost readings and everything is brand new. Even the charger , intake snail gasket, etc. Cat here's a picture of that housing . $450. Russ type 4 has them

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Takin mine to the alignment shop and paint booth tonight

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[catbird7]

Thanks for the housing info Strokin! Sharp truck! Obviously you have seen the turbo I now have, is the housing something I should consider? Why / When should the housing be replaced? What are the benefits of a new housing?

 

[Still Strokin]

It's a larger housing and moves more air, I noticed an egt reduction as they don't climb as fast . Has some holes drilled inside in the chambers. I'm guessing that's the whistle creator lol. I would advise scribing a mark on the old housing and center section then match up the new housing to the old and scribe an alignment mark on it too. That way you don't have to reclock the turbo

 

[reklund]

Clamps should be fairly new , I had to cut the box back open to ship them

Hopefully they're on the truck now, because they aren't in the photo?

 

[catbird7]

Looking at turbo blankets / heat shields. They show different sizes T3 & T4 etc. What size is the factory ATS 093?

 

[ironworker40]

Still Strokin are the rims on that green truck on the trailer in the pic you posted American racing wheels? I have benn considering a set of them for my truck. Whats your opinion on them.

 

[Still Strokin]

lol truck is actually black, but yes they are american racing wheels, Outlaw II's to be exact.... I like them, I have them on my boat trailer... I believe they are 16x7's. I'm actually going to use that set on my car hauler and put these beasts on the truck when it comes out of the paint booth

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['94IDITurbo7.3]

these turbos are T3

 

[catbird7]

I hooked up the pyro this weekend and the highest reading was 650 degrees and that was lugging uphill. Normal driving was around 300 degrees. The highest boost reading was 5.5lbs. This is with the fuel turned up 2 flats. Zero turbo whistle with 3" DP and 4" exhaust. Very little smoke (not that I want any). All of this was done with straight diesel fuel, no WMO mix.

 

[catbird7]

Finally hooked-up with Mel and he set the timing. Works great! Boost increased to 7lbs! I haven't check fuel mileage however it did seem to use less fuel on the 114 mile trip home.
Mel also adjusted the idle speed down which was previously set around 800 to 900 rpm. The new lower idle speed (around 500 to 600 rpm) works fine when the engine is warm however when first starting a cold engine, it's too low. I think there's suppose to be a fast idle setting and apparently there's something wrong with it. Not Mel's fault, he was working on a warm engine. Any info on checking / adjusting / trouble shooting the fast idle solenoid will be appreciated.

 

[icanfixall]

Fast idle is simple. The easy adjustment is loosen the 2 bolts that holds the bracket to the pump. They are 7/16 hex. Once the bracket is loose a couple of bolt turns move it forwards to the throttle lever. Then tighten it down watching it does not move back. Now if you want to go the other way use a 1/4 drive wratchet and socket. fit it over the brass plunger end that touches the throttle. Turn it towards the drivers side fender. That opens in up. Its a very fine thread so many turns will be needed. When the engine is warm the brass plunger is just a tiny bit away from the throttle shaft lever. Remember when you start a cold engine you MUST press down on the throttle one because the fast idle solenoid is not powerful enough to overcome the throttle springs.. Thats correct. Fdeeral law requires we run a double wound throttle return spring. Look closely at your. You should see there is another spring inside the one you normally see. BTW they connect way down low to the fast idle solenoid bracket in the V notch and around the throttle shaft at the ball to the cables. A litle more info wont hurt ya...

 

[bigpanda16]

Providing you have opened up your turbo elbow outlet to 3" inside diameter(weld a 3.25" or 3" vband to a cut elbow) and use aftermarket obs powerstroke elbow or a fairly modded super duty stock down pipe.
And 3.5" min back to the tail pipes. Then I would recommend a small vacuum tee into the wastegate boost reference line and that should net you the sub 12 pounds increase that you would like to have. Now that you are getting a bit more fuel
When you still have the factory turbo 2.25" elbow it necks down the post turbo flow and increases egt's obscenely.

 

[saburai]

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Finished ATS turbo install over the weekend. Thanks to all of the expert advise on this website it went pretty smooth. Now let the tweaking begin! First test drive showed zero boost, and actually felt less powerful than NA. Second try we turned fuel up two flats and boost gauge read 5 psi with a noticeable increase in performance. Next plan is to hook-up pyro and schedule a visit to Conestoga for timing. I attached a picture (hopefully it works). The turbo has about the same patina as the rest of my engine bay so it really looks original.

That's what I'd like my engine compartment to look like. Nice!