Few things going on, now have audio

[Billy Goat Burner]

So I have this noise in the exhaust that is bugging the crap out of me. I have tried to figure it out and am clueless anybody reconize it, its a ticking kinda puffing sound only at the exhaust and not at the engine.


http://s145.photobucket.com/albums/r237/jdnorton79/?action=view&current=100_0655.flv


Second, i have put an electric fuel pump on in place of the mechanical that went out on me. I seem to be using alot of fuel now should I put the regulator on and tone it down some? I am using the Holley Blue pump that is factory set around 14 psi . Next I had the fan blade and clutch go out so I am making due with an electric fan set up, they are dual fans that seem to be pulling in as much air as the stock fan, I noticed alot of freed up power but is this a bad idea for a permanent fix?

 

[GenLightening]

From what I've read, 14 psi is way too much. Stock is about 7psi, too much can ruin the IP. As for the fans, I'll be trying a dual 2400cfm fan setup on my conversion, even though eveyone says they'll never work. But than how many have tried it? And I'm not talking about someone just slapping a fan on the radiator and saying it didn't cool very well. I made up a nice aluminum shroud that covers the whole radiator so when the fans are on they pull through all the rows. Once it''s all in and running I'll see how it works.

 

[Billy Goat Burner]

From what I've read, 14 psi is way too much. Stock is about 7psi, too much can ruin the IP. As for the fans, I'll be trying a dual 2400cfm fan setup on my conversion, even though eveyone says they'll never work. But than how many have tried it? And I'm not talking about someone just slapping a fan on the radiator and saying it didn't cool very well. I made up a nice aluminum shroud that covers the whole radiator so when the fans are on they pull through all the rows. Once it''s all in and running I'll see how it works.

I haven't had any trouble with the fans I have installed, they aren't quite 2400cfm but the engine stays as cool as it did before. I made a shroud as well which is why I think they are working better! I guess I should tone the fuel pump down some then , I am going through alot of fuel right now to.

 

[GenLightening]

I haven't had any trouble with the fans I have installed, they aren't quite 2400cfm but the engine stays as cool as it did before. I made a shroud as well which is why I think they are working better! I guess I should tone the fuel pump down some then , I am going through alot of fuel right now to.

That's encouraging! Do you have yours on a thermostat? Or do you just hit a switch when the temp starts climbing?

 

[Billy Goat Burner]

its on a switch right now, a very heavy duty switch! they draw alot of amps, it really needs to be set up with an electric fan kit that has a relay and all the stuff you need to do it properly but money is a huge issue with us right now

 

[h2odrx]

that tick sounds like a lifter or valve? no different smoke?

 

[tradergem]

You can run 10 gage wire from the batteries to two relays then to the fans and just use the switch to activate the relays. Real cheap fix for now. And later on when you have the money for the thermostat controls just wire it in series to the switch and then connect it to control the relays. That way you have automatic control when the switch is on and the whole system can be turned off to stop any battery drain when not using the truck.

My brother installed a aftermarket fan kit in his 63 F100 when he put a 390 cid motor in it and found out that the fans were drawing to much currant through the thermostat control unit and caused it to overheat and stop controlling the fans eventhought that is the way the manufacturer's instructions said to install it. He had to rewire the control unit to activate relays like I said above to keep the control unit from overheating and now it works just fine so long as he remembers to turn on the main switch. .
Good luck. Jim

 

[GenLightening]

You can run 10 gage wire from the batteries to two relays then to the fans and just use the switch to activate the relays. Real cheap fix for now. And later on when you have the money for the thermostat controls just wire it in series to the switch and then connect it to control the relays. That way you have automatic control when the switch is on and the whole system can be turned off to stop any battery drain when not using the truck.

My brother installed a aftermarket fan kit in his 63 F100 when he put a 390 cid motor in it and found out that the fans were drawing to much currant through the thermostat control unit and caused it to overheat and stop controlling the fans eventhought that is the way the manufacturer's instructions said to install it. He had to rewire the control unit to activate relays like I said above to keep the control unit from overheating and now it works just fine so long as he remembers to turn on the main switch. .
Good luck. Jim

That's how I'm planning to set mine up for now, got all the parts just waiting to be installed. Just have to get the engine in and hooked up.

 

[Billy Goat Burner]

that tick sounds like a lifter or valve? no different smoke?

I never really had any smoke changes even though I turned the pump up some, only when I hammer it will it lay down the soot, ever so slightly though. Now there is a foul and I do mean FOUL exhaust oder that is present.

 

[Billy Goat Burner]

You can run 10 gage wire from the batteries to two relays then to the fans and just use the switch to activate the relays. Real cheap fix for now. And later on when you have the money for the thermostat controls just wire it in series to the switch and then connect it to control the relays. That way you have automatic control when the switch is on and the whole system can be turned off to stop any battery drain when not using the truck.

My brother installed a aftermarket fan kit in his 63 F100 when he put a 390 cid motor in it and found out that the fans were drawing to much currant through the thermostat control unit and caused it to overheat and stop controlling the fans eventhought that is the way the manufacturer's instructions said to install it. He had to rewire the control unit to activate relays like I said above to keep the control unit from overheating and now it works just fine so long as he remembers to turn on the main switch. .
Good luck. Jim

Maybe I should try that as a permanant fix, the switch I have is from a place I use to work at, a heavy truck parts/service shop. Its a Cole-Hersey that can handle some amps but I noticed it does get a little warm. Thanks for the advice I have alot of things going on with it right now so all the help is appreciated

 

[Billy Goat Burner]

right now this moment I have a friend that is giving me front and rear axles from a 2000 F250, just don't know if I can makem work. i want to get rid of the 4.10 gears no need for them for me, plus the wheels on the axles are way better than mine!! any suggestions?????

 

[82F100SWB]

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This is how I have the e-fans on my 460 truck wired, you'll notice they're on circuit breakers and 40A relays, and I have 2 18ga wires running to the switches in the cab. This is how to properly wire the fans. If you were running a controller, you'd just run the 18ga leads to the controller instead of switches. Depending on the fans you are running, you may need to go with bigger/paired relays, for the fans I am running on that truck, the 40A rating is more than enough to handle the startup spike.
The fans themselves:

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They're from an 01 or so Chevy Malibu, and were more than capable of keeping the 460 cool. A 6.9, I'm not about to venture a guess.

As for the super duty axles, the swap is doable, and you will gain 4 wheel discs, but, also expensive unit bearings.
Also they will be 3.73 or 4.10 gears, so, you may or may not gain some drop in rpm.

 

[Billy Goat Burner]

You must be registered for see images

This is how I have the e-fans on my 460 truck wired, you'll notice they're on circuit breakers and 40A relays, and I have 2 18ga wires running to the switches in the cab. This is how to properly wire the fans. If you were running a controller, you'd just run the 18ga leads to the controller instead of switches. Depending on the fans you are running, you may need to go with bigger/paired relays, for the fans I am running on that truck, the 40A rating is more than enough to handle the startup spike.
The fans themselves:

You must be registered for see images

They're from an 01 or so Chevy Malibu, and were more than capable of keeping the 460 cool. A 6.9, I'm not about to venture a guess.

As for the super duty axles, the swap is doable, and you will gain 4 wheel discs, but, also expensive unit bearings.
Also they will be 3.73 or 4.10 gears, so, you may or may not gain some drop in rpm.

I hadn't thought about using breakers, seems like a good idea I think I'll do it. The axles are 3.73 gears I think they are Dana not sure yet I'll be checking out the truck out this weekend at the shop, there are some other body parts i want to look at if not for my truck then to sell so we'll see, hey thanks for the info

 

[Ford428CJ]

From what I've read, 14 psi is way too much. Stock is about 7psi, too much can ruin the IP. As for the fans, I'll be trying a dual 2400cfm fan setup on my conversion, even though eveyone says they'll never work. But than how many have tried it? And I'm not talking about someone just slapping a fan on the radiator and saying it didn't cool very well. I made up a nice aluminum shroud that covers the whole radiator so when the fans are on they pull through all the rows. Once it''s all in and running I'll see how it works.

I'm running E-Fans on mine. I think I need an aluminum Rad for this spring! I haven't hauled a load yet but I don't think the Stock 79 3 row is going to work for me.......

 

[GenLightening]

I'm running E-Fans on mine. I think I need an aluminum Rad for this spring! I haven't hauled a load yet but I don't think the Stock 79 3 row is going to work for me.......

The stock deisel rad is a 4 row. I'm going to start with the 454 unit and see how it does. It's a little smaller and if it doesn't work I'll go with an aluminum unit.

My fans and shroud should be pretty efficiant. I don't have a pic of the finished unit yet, but the blank spaces above and below the fans have cutouts with flaps over them. These flaps will open at speed to allow air to flow through with no restrictions. Time will tell how it all works out.