Hi, I have an 89 7.3 auto and have an opportunity to pick up a complete 94 f350 with 7.3 turbo standard pretty reasonable. the 94 is rusted bad but only has 96k on it. I want it for the turbo and the push plates (for a plow). My question is how much of a job will it be to remove the turbo from the 94 and put it on the 89? my 89 is auto, the 94 is standard, is that an issue? would it be better to swap motors? I actually have no idea how many miles are on my engine as the odometer only has 5 digits. but the motor does run good, and its clean. thanks
factory turbo from 94 to an 89
- Thread starter bennersaw
- Start date
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Depends does the turbo run well? Can you do a comp test on both engines?
That's what I would do is comp them both, then make an informed choice.
Motor swap would be nice too BTW as you have the sturdier wrist pins and slightly lower compression pistons in the turbo engine. The valve covers are correct, serpentine belt system.
IMHO if that turbo engine is a good solid runner, I'd swap that entire engine over and while doing it install some block drains for coolant and rebuild the oil cooler as well.
JM2CW
Al
That's what I would do is comp them both, then make an informed choice.
Motor swap would be nice too BTW as you have the sturdier wrist pins and slightly lower compression pistons in the turbo engine. The valve covers are correct, serpentine belt system.
IMHO if that turbo engine is a good solid runner, I'd swap that entire engine over and while doing it install some block drains for coolant and rebuild the oil cooler as well.
JM2CW
Al
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Al makes some very good points. Just some information about these idi engines. All the external bolts in both the 6.9 and 7.3 be it turbo or not. Are drilled the same. So anything acessary on any engine will bolt directly to any idi engine. Even the internals are really the same parts too. All engines run the same cams, rods and oil pumps. The turbo rods have a larger wrist pin at 33mm compared to the non turbo at 28mm. No matter. A non turbo will handle the turbo easily. Mine went several hundred thousand miles with a turbo hauling heavy and boosting 12 lbs.. On stock head bolts too... Either way you choose to swap the engines complete or just the turbo. Its doable and simple. What you might want to do is lift the front of the cab to make more working room. Or remove the front clip or at least the radiater core support so the engine does not have to lift over the rad support..
darkbluefoxbody2
Registered User
HOLD UP!!! a 1994 Turbo motor uses a different flywheel thats NOT compatible with other IDI NA motors!!!! You can't use your flywheel on it! The balance is different. You need a Turbo flywheel or swap in the ZF.
But heres the rest.
I have swapped two 94 IDI oem Turbo motors too older trucks, one 1985 and one 1987. It is ALMOST impossible without removing the Turbo from the motor. I would say remove the turbo then pull motor. You'll need the valve covers from the Turbo and to relocate your glow plug controller to the valve cover if you just swap the turbo. Don't forget you need to hammer and cut your trucks firewall for clearance BEFORE install either way you go.
Order a Banks downpipe too from Summit too there in stock, just ordered one be here tomorrow.
But heres the rest.
I have swapped two 94 IDI oem Turbo motors too older trucks, one 1985 and one 1987. It is ALMOST impossible without removing the Turbo from the motor. I would say remove the turbo then pull motor. You'll need the valve covers from the Turbo and to relocate your glow plug controller to the valve cover if you just swap the turbo. Don't forget you need to hammer and cut your trucks firewall for clearance BEFORE install either way you go.
Order a Banks downpipe too from Summit too there in stock, just ordered one be here tomorrow.
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riotwarrior
Full Access Member
He can likely use his auto setup just fine without too much to be concerned about or have that flywheel rebalanced if needed.
Bottom line the better running engine is the one to use regardless of all other aspects.
JM2CW
junk
Full Access Member
If your engine runs good and gives you no issues I'd swap the turbo and call it good. Now of course use the best engine between the two. I myself lean to the non turbo engine because the parts cross over wider years. Balance of the factory turbo engines is a concern and what dampners and flywheels you use.
Thanks for all the replies. I bought the truck for 800 bucks and got it home last night. my son and i removed the turbo and were wondering if there are things to look for to make sure its good. the wheel spins smoothly and there didn't seem to be any end play. I think im going to throw it on the 89 engine and see how it goes.
So which downpipe is the right one to order? and what does it do/help over the stock one?
So which downpipe is the right one to order? and what does it do/help over the stock one?
darkbluefoxbody2
Registered User
If the turbo has no play it is good, just throw it on. You need to cut the the pinch weld or pound it back that runs along the firewall near the bellhousing and heat shield for clearance for the downpipe, do this prior to mounting turbo. I find it necessary to pound the seam back on top too. Theres a vacuum attachement mounted there on certain years.
The turbo mounting pedestal has a different size drain grommet too, save your old one from the OEM turbo motor if possible or Typ4 may still have some.
Order the Banks turbo downpipe from Summit for a 1994 7.3. gbe-52103, it is alot bigger and not all crushed down and pinched off.
The turbo mounting pedestal has a different size drain grommet too, save your old one from the OEM turbo motor if possible or Typ4 may still have some.
Order the Banks turbo downpipe from Summit for a 1994 7.3. gbe-52103, it is alot bigger and not all crushed down and pinched off.
