Diesel JD
Full Access Member
What I hear 5psi is still not enough.. The ATS non gated turbo should make 6-10psi WOT with the wastegate in the factory position, should be a lot more, maybe 13-15 the way you have it.
factory/ATS y-pipe to up-pipe fit
- Thread starter SKimballC
- Start date
I hate to even say this, but if you can't get any sealer to do the trick, you could always try a thin application of JB weld on there ( thin enough to bust loose with a sledge if needed ) That would seal it for sure
Have you wire wheeled both surfaces?
is the female side pitted real bad?
--------------Robert
Have you wire wheeled both surfaces?
is the female side pitted real bad?
--------------Robert
SKimballC
Registered User
JB Weld is rated for something like 650 degrees F. I have some stuff called Thermosteel that is similar and good up to 2000 degrees, but I am afraid of using something that difficult in case it still doesn't seal and I have to try to work with it.
Oh yeah, wire wheeled both sides and no real pitting on the up-pipe. To me it just looks like bad design. ATS isn't gonna win too many accolades from me. Their exhaust piping, on both turbo designs I've had, is a PITA.
I have pulled this stuff off the truck so many times I could do it in my sleep. I have had so little spare time this week that's about the only time I could have done it. Next up I'll try the stovepipe cement, then if that don't last, something more drastic. Like a Powerstr...oh!
Just kidding.
Oh yeah, wire wheeled both sides and no real pitting on the up-pipe. To me it just looks like bad design. ATS isn't gonna win too many accolades from me. Their exhaust piping, on both turbo designs I've had, is a PITA.
I have pulled this stuff off the truck so many times I could do it in my sleep. I have had so little spare time this week that's about the only time I could have done it. Next up I'll try the stovepipe cement, then if that don't last, something more drastic. Like a Powerstr...oh!
Just kidding.
ttman4
Last Nite's Dream..
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I've had my ATS non-gated on & off several times thru the years.
Sometimes the slip joint "falls off" & sometimes it seems to not be anyway in heck to come apart. Squirt & soak & wiggle & sit & wiggle & cuss & hammer &....
And as far as mine sealing, it always leaks ex. smoke first 1/2-1-2 minutes after it's cranked till things warm up & expand & seal. You'd think being loose enough to leak smoke it'd fall apart every time, but NO!!!!
Sometimes the slip joint "falls off" & sometimes it seems to not be anyway in heck to come apart. Squirt & soak & wiggle & sit & wiggle & cuss & hammer &....
And as far as mine sealing, it always leaks ex. smoke first 1/2-1-2 minutes after it's cranked till things warm up & expand & seal. You'd think being loose enough to leak smoke it'd fall apart every time, but NO!!!!
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Was it you that used the stovepipe cement or was that Reklund? The fun that I have to look forward to on this turbo install...
SKimballC
Registered User
That was Ryan. He recommended the stovepipe cement that I have waiting on deck. JD, at least with the earlier turbo you guys have its a tight fit to begin with. Mine is sloppy loose. I won't add any similies to that comment.;p
SKimballC
Registered User
Update
I finally found some time to pull the turbo and exhaust off the truck again, as the exhaust leak issues were still out of hand. I tried the stovepipe cement but it worked no better than the pipe sealant. So I gave in and ordered a new uppipe from ATS. I tested it on the spare y-pipe and the fit was really tight, so I swapped it in for the old one and put it all back together sans the worthless and messy sealant. The thing's making up to 5 psi if I push it up to around 2100 rpms between shifts, whereas before it was making maybe 3 psi between shifts and 5 was the most I ever saw on the highway. I don't know what happened to that old uppipe but its not right.
So, its better, but I still think it should be making more boost. Fuel is turned up enough, wastegate is maxed, and turbo looks to be in good shape. So, I am gonna swap my other y-pipe in, since it is a tighter fit- so tight that I am scrared to try to put it on cuz it will never come off. IF that don't improve it, I will then give up and not worry about it. I am moving to Oregon in a month and won't have anywhere to wrench on the truck for a while.
That's my little update.
I finally found some time to pull the turbo and exhaust off the truck again, as the exhaust leak issues were still out of hand. I tried the stovepipe cement but it worked no better than the pipe sealant. So I gave in and ordered a new uppipe from ATS. I tested it on the spare y-pipe and the fit was really tight, so I swapped it in for the old one and put it all back together sans the worthless and messy sealant. The thing's making up to 5 psi if I push it up to around 2100 rpms between shifts, whereas before it was making maybe 3 psi between shifts and 5 was the most I ever saw on the highway. I don't know what happened to that old uppipe but its not right.
So, its better, but I still think it should be making more boost. Fuel is turned up enough, wastegate is maxed, and turbo looks to be in good shape. So, I am gonna swap my other y-pipe in, since it is a tighter fit- so tight that I am scrared to try to put it on cuz it will never come off. IF that don't improve it, I will then give up and not worry about it. I am moving to Oregon in a month and won't have anywhere to wrench on the truck for a while.
That's my little update.
hoodshauler
Full Access Member
I have a question? are you saying that the y pipe is not tight at the manifold on the passenger side? You said it is as tight as it can go because it is hitting the studs. Mine does not have studs at the manifold it has bolts. Studs will not let it go up far enough to get tight.
I may be reading you r post wrong but thats my 2 cents.
I may be reading you r post wrong but thats my 2 cents.
SKimballC
Registered User
Haven't been able to come around here since my computer went **** up.
BJ, the y-pipe IS tight at the manifold and though it does have studs the y-pipe is tight. But now you have me wondering...
As far as I can tell, the exhaust leak at the y-pipe to up-pipe is minimal at most, but I can't say if its sealing completely. I am gonna pull it one last time and and swap the y-pipe that's in there for the other one I have that is gonna be a bear to get into the up-pipe. I am debating getting a rebuild kit for it too. The exhaust turbine and compressor wheel are good, and that can't hurt.
Its running great, but I think somethings not right since I can't get more than 5 psi with the way its maxed out.
BJ, the y-pipe IS tight at the manifold and though it does have studs the y-pipe is tight. But now you have me wondering...
As far as I can tell, the exhaust leak at the y-pipe to up-pipe is minimal at most, but I can't say if its sealing completely. I am gonna pull it one last time and and swap the y-pipe that's in there for the other one I have that is gonna be a bear to get into the up-pipe. I am debating getting a rebuild kit for it too. The exhaust turbine and compressor wheel are good, and that can't hurt.
Its running great, but I think somethings not right since I can't get more than 5 psi with the way its maxed out.
