Exhaust prep questions

[OldIron82]

Getting ready to bolt on the exhaust manifolds and turbo piping but I'm wondering how much if any prep I should do. The driver side manifold in this pic I sand blasted over a year ago and it has light surface rust again. No big deal. The passenger side needs to be blasted, I should get to that tomorrow. I have header wrap and was intending to wrap the cross over pipe and the up pipe because I heard that helps put more thermal energy to the turbine. Will blasting and painting the crossover pipe help it last longer? Is there any reason besides cosmetics to blast the manifolds?

Another question about the up pipe and slip joint. The consensus here was to leave it alone, but the fact that the two are not bottomed out together makes me nervous and makes me wonder if that's gonna raise the turbo up enough to cause grief hooking into the intake hat. Are they supposed to be bottomed out or is it almost like pipe thread in which it gets tighter the further it goes together?

Thanks.

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[Thewespaul]

You want anything that you use exhaust wrap on to be very clean underneath. If there’s already rust it will continue to rot the metal away at an accelerated rate especially in the north

 

[chillman88]

If/when I get a turbo on mine I'm planning on looking into ceramic coating like they do on headers. I think the place I read about was "jet hot" maybe? It didn't sound too expensive and won't hold moisture in like the wrap. I'm not sure if anyone here has experience with them or not, I haven't asked on here yet for opinions on it. I'm pretty sure they had some thermal coating.

 

[OldIron82]

Thank you!

 

[laserjock]

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I blasted and nickel plated mine.

[emoji6]

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Might tap the manifold for a pyro probe if you don’t have one. Now is the time.

 

[OldIron82]

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I blasted and nickel plated mine.

[emoji6]

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Might tap the manifold for a pyro probe if you don’t have one. Now is the time.

Didn't even think of the pyro. How's that work? Is it a coupler welded on the manifold or do you drill and tap then screw in a receiver? Beautiful job on those parts.

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[Thewespaul]

Drill and tap it, unless you want to preheat and weld a bung on the cast manifold

 

[OldIron82]

Nah, I'll go for the drill and tap. I've been welding since 04 but never played with cast. My first rodeo will come soon enough when I install a v clamp around the 093 ats exhaust outlet housing. Luckily the previous owner already upgraded to the true 3" but that slip joint just don't get me off. Also, do they make nickel mig wire? Not to happy about having to stick it.

 

[laserjock]

Go with stainless mig wire. There are alloys available with enough nickel that it doesn’t go through the crystal structure change that causes the shrinkage (why you use nickel rod on cast). There’s a guy on YouTube I’ve seen do it and I was reasonably impressed.

 

[Nick382]

I recently got a quote for ceramic coating. $300 for the two headers in glacier silver or black. I personally decided I'd rather spend the money elsewhere.


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[chillman88]

I recently got a quote for ceramic coating. $300 for the two headers in glacier silver or black. I personally decided I'd rather spend the money elsewhere.


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It would depend for me. Up here that'd pay for itself if it was driven in winter. I got 3-4 years out of an exhaust system on my old Chevy before it literally fell off from rust. My summer toy... I don't know. Good headers are $500+ for my car.

 

[Pork_Chop50]

@laserjock did you have your manifolds surfaced on the gasket mating face before nickel coating? And you tapped the drivers side which, if I remember, is the best location to get a solid temp reading. I'm asking for verification for those who will undoubtedly come after me.