Engine Time

YJMike92

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I thought I saw that somewhere. It could be an option. I'll need to get this apart and really assess what I need. As of now, I haven't done the compression test I want to do.
I spent the evening getting a little more working space for this probable project. Pretty bad when a guy has two lifts and two flat bays and has to work on his own stuff on the ground outside. At least I'll be undercover.
 

YJMike92

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I finally got the truck in a place it can stay for a while and not be in the way. I was able to do a compression test tonight. My suspicions were correct. Cylinder seven (last cylinder passenger side) has 200lbs of pressure all other cylinders have 425-475lbs. Cylinder seven is the cylinder which had a bad injector. I am going to pull the passenger side valve cover just to verify the valve train is ok and maybe do a cylinder leak down test. after that, I will decide on a course of action.
 

YJMike92

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I'm still thinking about rebuilding the NA engine I have in my parts truck (it's all about space and time). If I do I would put Turbo rods, flywheel, and front pulley into the NA block. I have a dual mass delete clutch kit here in the shop for the turbo engine. I would need some turbo rods and front pulley. Does anyone have any rods or pulleys or block components they would like to part with? Any reason why this would not work?
 

Thewespaul

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I have everything you would need, turbo rods and turbo balancer. Would you be replacing the pistons or would you need turbo pistons as well?
 

YJMike92

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I would need to replace pistons to go with the rods and wrist pins. I don't know the condition of the cylinders so I will need to wait and measure the cylinders. What did you have as far as pistons? According to the previous owner, it ran well before the lift pump went out and the 90k on the odometer is accurate. Unfortunately, it wasn't the lift pump it was the IP. He gave up and sold it after lots of ether was used. I put an injection pump on it and it is running and sounds good although it does have several cylinders low on compression no visible blow by which I thought was strange. If you want to sell what you have (including pistons)I'm interested. I guess we could talk or PM.
 

YJMike92

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I finally removed the engine and have it torn down to the point I can formulate a game plan. I will be using standard size pistons and bearings. I will replace the rocker arms as well as the lifters. Looks like the heads need a trip to the machine shop for some valve guide replacement and valve work. I have some cracking in the chambers that are pressed into the head, I'm not sure how much of that is acceptable? I have a question about installing the comp 910 valve springs. The catalog actually list them for 70's GM products am I looking at the correct springs? I will also need a little information on the 6.9 head gasket/cooling system Mod as well as the 6.9 valve guide seals. I have read a little about it ( if anyone has a link that would be helpful) I need to research the pros and cons. Any other input is welcome.
 

Thewespaul

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COMP910-16 is the correct part number for the valve spring upgrade for our trucks, it may crossover to many other applications but that is very common in the valvetrain aftermarket, these springs are normally used in the powerstroke 7.3s which use the same springs as the IDIs from the factory. International even used the same lifters in all their v8 diesels from the 6.9 all the way to the 6.4s.

There’s no downside to the coolant mod, it’s a must in any 7.3. Pop out the freeze plugs in the corners of the block and heads and use a 6.9 head gasket.

The valve seals install just like you’re doing it on a 6.9. These seals allow a bit more oiling for the guides, and in my experience hold up better than the 7.3 seals. The later seals were pretty restrictive on oil for emissions, and led to a lot of 7.3 guide issues that the 6.9s didn’t have.

Ideally, A set of these puppies will be the way to go, but it will be some time before I have them on the market.
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YJMike92

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I made a thread on this a while back called 7.3 cooling mod. It may help. Wes had a good idea by making the holes in the 6.9 head gaskets larger to allow more coolant flow.
Thanks, I'll try to find it and read up the more information the better.
 

YJMike92

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COMP910-16 is the correct part number for the valve spring upgrade for our trucks, it may crossover to many other applications but that is very common in the valvetrain aftermarket, these springs are normally used in the powerstroke 7.3s which use the same springs as the IDIs from the factory. International even used the same lifters in all their v8 diesels from the 6.9 all the way to the 6.4s.

There’s no downside to the coolant mod, it’s a must in any 7.3. Pop out the freeze plugs in the corners of the block and heads and use a 6.9 head gasket.

The valve seals install just like you’re doing it on a 6.9. These seals allow a bit more oiling for the guides, and in my experience hold up better than the 7.3 seals. The later seals were pretty restrictive on oil for emissions, and led to a lot of 7.3 guide issues that the 6.9s didn’t have.

Ideally, A set of these puppies will be the way to go, but it will be some time before I have them on the market.
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Thanks,

I'll probably do the cooling mod. The valve springs are on an order I haven't submitted yet I'm still checking a few things out before I order. Those valve seals in the picture look like a valve spring washer/shim and seal all in one.
 

YJMike92

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Getting Some parts in. I'm happy with most of them. I'm kind of concerned about the Clevite roller lifters being made in China. Does anyone know if there are any American made Lifters? I expected more from Clevite then that. I'm inclined to clean inspect and reuse the originals.
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Jason1377

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Getting Some parts in. I'm happy with most of them. I'm kind of concerned about the Clevite roller lifters being made in China. Does anyone know if there are any American made Lifters? I expected more from Clevite then that. I'm inclined to clean inspect and reuse the originals.
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I'm confused about all the negative stuff that pertains to China made items some of the original parts on my 1993 7.3 n/a have said made if China Mexico and even Canada, I'm sure 99% of people want USA made products but of a vehicle has lasted 25 years with parts from all over can they still not be used or is it a personal preference
 

YJMike92

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I'm confused about all the negative stuff that pertains to China made items some of the original parts on my 1993 7.3 n/a have said made if China Mexico and even Canada, I'm sure 99% of people want USA made products but of a vehicle has lasted 25 years with parts from all over can they still not be used or is it a personal preference

I am very confident that nothing original on your 93 model said China. Mexico, and Canada yes. I have worked in the Automotive repair business for 40 years (showing my age) and I can assure you the quality in Chinese products is not there. In this case, I may be wrong but do I really want to find out in the middle of nowhere when these things shell and take out a motor? My truck is not a toy, when this truck hits the road it's on a mission. I dropped a cylinder on a 6-hour ride to Texas. A trip I make often. I'm expecting another 24-hour drive non-stop to the East Coast in the near future. A poor quality lifter does not sound like fun.
 
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YJMike92

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Mahle and Johnson hi-lift lifters are the way to go

They are Mahle.
That's what's disappointing. Looks like Mahle bought Clevite or vice-versa? I'm going to have the boys at O'reilly's look at a Melling box today and see where they are made. I can't picture too many companies making lifters. Clevite has been around forever in the US. Mahle is a German Company just as old. Looks like they are outsourcing the less profitable part lines?
 
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