Engine Rebuild Update...

[Todd C]

I have been S L O W L Y working at rebuilding my 7.3 IDI Turbo, and I am finally ready (amost anyway) to install the heads. My theory has been to work on it a little, and then sit back and think about what I did/have to do next so hopefully I don't make any mistakes. I have a few more freeze plugs to put in the heads, then hopefully this weekend I can get the heads installed. Anyway, I have posted pictures of my progress so far, if anyone's interested, here they are:
http://gallery.phalengard.com:8000/7-3-IDI-Turbo-Rebuild
Thanks to all who have given me advice to get this far...
After the heads are on, I need to clean up and paint the intake, clean and paint the oil pan. I may end up stripping the pan, since it already has a couple of coats of paint on it. Lots of other smaller parts to clean up before they go back on. Oh, and then there's the whole injection system that needs to be replaced/installed/timed...

 

[Agnem]

Looks great Todd! I hope things continue to go well for you. Where did you end up getting another crank, and what does one of those cost if you don't mind my asking? We hear of crank related stuff so infrequently....

 

[Todd C]

Thanks Mel. I ended up getting a complete 94 IDI Turbo engine from a wrecked truck in a local yard. Supposedly a running engine when it hit a tree. I got the crank and turbo rods as well as lots of misc. parts from that. I think I got a decent deal for $1000. Unfortunately, the exhaust valves and guides were worn so I have to get new guides and I got the Hypermax exhaust valves. When I am done, and I'm sure that I have all the parts that I need, I will have a lot of parts that I'll probably list here.

 

[hesutton]

WOW....I really am itching for a project and those photo's aren't helping.

Looking good Todd. Looks like you have all of the bottomend buttoned up. I need to replace the headgaskets and stud the 6.9 before I put the turbo on...... It may get a complete overhall.......just because it's a hoot to do it.

Heath

 

[RLDSL]

For those head freeze plugs, did you buy them from the international dealer? They take a special set of stainless freeze plugs ( that will make your wallet scream for mercy) but if you try to use regular cup plugs from a parts store, they will unfortunately rust through in the position that they are mounted just from condensation. The area between the plugs and the head gaskets has an air gap and it traps a small amount of atmospheric moisture . within a very few miles the things begin to rust through. If you use the painfully expensive factory plugs, no worries. I pulled a set of heads that the machine shop had used regular steel plug on after about 5000 miles and all the plugs facing the intake and the block were in real foul shape. The corrosion protection of the antifreeze does nothing for the moisture on the other side. The original ones that had been in the heads when they went in the shop looked better.

 

[Todd C]

The small freeze plugs that go in the head and block against the head gasket are still available from Ford, that's where I got them. They are stainless. Actually I have the ones in the block deck already installed. I just ordered the ones for the head, and they were delivered today. I still need to make sure they are the right ones. Those were the only plugs I could still get from Ford. I couldn't find any stainless aftermarket, so anywhere they are in contact with coolant I am using brass.

I don't think the plugs I pulled out of the head from my original Jasper engine are stainless but I'm not surprised.

The expansion plugs in the side and back of the block are direct from Ford, installed with Ford's very expensive tool, and Hylomar sealant.

 

[RLDSL]

The small freeze plugs that go in the head and block against the head gasket are still available from Ford, that's where I got them. They are stainless. Actually I have the ones in the block deck already installed. I just ordered the ones for the head, and they were delivered today. I still need to make sure they are the right ones. Those were the only plugs I could still get from Ford. I couldn't find any stainless aftermarket, so anywhere they are in contact with coolant I am using brass.

I don't think the plugs I pulled out of the head from my original Jasper engine are stainless but I'm not surprised.

The expansion plugs in the side and back of the block are direct from Ford, installed with Ford's very expensive tool, and Hylomar sealant.

You should be good to go then. Any ford cant get, International can, so no need to scrimp and go brass when you can still get the proper stainless ones to go in all around. A few folks have had brass plugs walk out on them. I don't know if there was sealant involved, but considering the possible temperature spikes, something to consider.
I could tell by the pics that you had the block plugs done in right That dang tool is worth it's weight in gold.

I was surprised that the shop that did my heads that time used regular steel plugs since they do all the rebuilds for the local international dealer , I tried to buy stainless plugs from them and they don't even stock the things and it's a heavy diesel specialty shop

 

[david85]

The shop I had my block done at didn't even touch the core plugs even through hot tank and magnaflux. They said that SS plugs don't have to be replaced.

Um, so far so good?

 

[Knuckledragger]

Don't forget to replace the timing gear and rear main seal covers before installing the oil pan.

When I was putting my 6.9 together, I got all excited and put the pan on after the oil pump was installed, forgetting about the two end plates. Excellent practice removing RTV sealant another time before doing it right.

 

[RLDSL]

And my favourite rear main seal installation tool, a greased up Wendys medium beverage cup with the lip cut off. Works great

Right now is a great time to weld on any fittings to the oil pan that you think you might want later, like a pipe fitting for an oil temp sensor at the bottom or a couple of AN fittings on the side somewhere for bypass return fittings or other odd return fittings. You can cap them off for now if not using, but if you decide to use them later, you have them. Summit racing has a wide selection of weld up fittings. Best to braze them on for leak free connections. Electric welding tends to yield pin holes.

 

[Todd C]

Rear main seal is already installed. It came with a "tool" to install it. It did resemble a heavy plastic cup with the lip and bottom cut off. It worked great!
Thanks for the tip about the front cover, I had forgotten about that!
I have been thinking about installing a fitting for an oil temp gage in the pan.