EGT limit

[Timbeaux38]

Got a buddy who bought an 03 7.3- it has a 3 pos chip, Ats Turbo housing, 4inch exh, intake, and supposedly a beefy TC and valve body - his pyro probe is post turbo- what EGT should he stay under- he says he can get up to 1200 with the chip on "kill"

 

[Mike]

Post turbo pyro temps are not the most reliable. They can vary by several hundred degrees (I have been led to believe this by some reputable people). I would agree that 1200°F post turbo is about all the further I would push it on short bursts and try to keep it aroound 900°F sustained temps. If it were my rig I would spend the hour necessary under the rig and move the probe into the exhaust manifold pre-turbo. Short bursts pre-turbo you should be ok to roughly 1500°F and sustained temps of 1200°F are suitable.

 

[Swany]

Got a buddy who bought an 03 7.3- it has a 3 pos chip, Ats Turbo housing, 4inch exh, intake, and supposedly a beefy TC and valve body - his pyro probe is post turbo- what EGT should he stay under- he says he can get up to 1200 with the chip on "kill"

you can run it at 1200 all day long, it's when you get above the 1200 that it's starts to jack up your pistons.

Some will hit 1600 when they do pulls or runs, as long as you aren't staying in that area for long, you should be ok.

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

The problem with POST TURBO pyros is the inconsistancy with mounting locations. Because of this, one post turbo probe does not always match another post turbo probes readings and cannot be shared with others.

PRE-TURBO pyros are mounted in one of two locations, In the UP PIPE about 1 inch from the coupling to the manifold, or in the manifold itself about one inche from the coupling. Because of this consistant location among ALL pre-turbo probes, we can share the numbers and be consistant.

Garret (the guys who build our turbos) say 1250 degrees PRE TURBO TEMP is the absolute redline for long life. They say our turbos can run at 1200 degrees pre turbo until the end of time.

Smokey_Wren on the other site had both pre AND post turbo probes and said he could hit 1200 pre, but only 800 post. Other days he could hit 1200 pre and 1200 post at the same time. He said it was too difficult to predict and has just gone with the turbo designer's recomendations of PRE TURBO, 1250 redline.

I would have to agree.

PRE PRE PRE!!!!

 

[Max Power]

you can run it at 1200 all day long, it's when you get above the 1200 that it's starts to jack up your pistons.

1200 All day long post turbo? 1200 pre-turbo maybe but not post.

I would also suggest moving it pre-turbo. The problem is that the turbo is an unknown variable. You can't guess at how much heat the turbo is going to remove from the exhaust gas temperatures at any given time. It can change depending on the duration of the abuse or even the air temperature.

Pre Turbo is the way to go. I can't stress this enough.

 

[Mike]

Garret (the guys who build our turbos) say 1250 degrees PRE TURBO TEMP is the absolute redline for long life. They say our turbos can run at 1200 degrees pre turbo until the end of time.

I agree with this statement and it is the parameters I use on my personal rig, however, Dale Isely pulled his 94-97 class PSD across the state of South Dakota last year in August with a large load (he went to Iowa? or something with an empty trailer and came back loaded) and held his pyro @ 1300°~1400°F for 4 hours straight with no immediate ill effects. So as with anything there are those that push the limits, there are the unknown X factors etc etc.............. Pre turbo temps of 1200-1300 are in my book, the limit. Post????? Who knows, nobody that I know will commit to them being accurate.

 

[Swany]

I missed the "post" turbo, I totally retract my statement- I assumed it was pre-turbo. PRE-TURBO all day at 1200. I don't believe in having post turbo, the damage could already have been done. My oversight gents.

 

[Timbeaux38]

I tried to get him to move the Probe back, but he seems to be happy where it is at- I always heard that the turbo will lower temps around 300 deg +/- I know what is acceptable for a cummins, just not a stroke- so I guess that he is around 1500 pre turbo, which is bad, from what you guys are saying- I'll tell him to move the probe or melt the thing....

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

I'll tell him to move the probe or melt the thing....

yup, pretty much thats the answer!

 

[jjeepyjohn]

Dont tell him to move it just put another one in at the pre location.

Ive run post turbo on both of my 7.3s and my Peterbilt. Ive held a steady 1000deg comig back from TX pulling a load and have NO probs at all.I do plan on putting in a prob pre-turbo just to actually see the diff and the extra gauge looks cool too.But I havent had any probs with my turbo and Im at a little over 75K miles now.If you mount it post turbo it should be withing 3 to 6 inch area after the turbo outlet mounted pointing to the center and not in an elbow if possible.

 

[Timbeaux38]

Which side do you guys mount the probe on? I'm slowly getting him to see the light....

 

[jvencius]

Which side do you guys mount the probe on? I'm slowly getting him to see the light....

Mine is mounted pre-turbo ~2" from the flange where the up-pipe and the manifold connect.

 

[Ford_Forgotton]

Drivers side. Either in the manifold OR the up pipe. If your doing the drill and tap, you MUST use the manifold. If doing the CLAMP ON, you can do either the manifold or the up pipe.

New drill bit, SLOW SPEED. hold a vacuum cleaner up to the bit as you drill. If you TAP it, put some grease on the tap to collect the shavings.

 

[Timbeaux38]

thanks-

 

[dego_red]

I just wonder about all the people out there that have no guages to tell them when to back off. Never heard of any motors melting down in the U-Haul trucks, where most renters keep their foot glued to the floor, I was one of them before I got my first diesel. I've heard of rods going through the sides of blocks, but not melt downs...... :***:


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