EGT gauge q's

[jactoy4x4]

Look on the back of the gauge. Mine had a plastic screw for a flat head screw driver that was for swirching between two different settings on the gauge. The idea was to use the same gauge for 2 different lengths of lead wires since longer wires have more resistance and require a different calibration.

Any instructions come with the gauge?

ill pull it back out of my dash and check that. there were just some half assed cheapo wiring instructions that didnt really make sense. theres only one way everything could hook up anyways so destructions...really werent needed.

and i do have about three feet of extra wire on the lead....couldnt i just cut back some of the wire braided mesh cover crap and shorten it up?

 

[david85]

and i do have about three feet of extra wire on the lead....couldnt i just cut back some of the wire braided mesh cover crap and shorten it up?

NO. Unless you have access to the original design paramiters of the gauge, you will only have a poorly educated guess of what the real EGTs are. Shortening the lead wires will increase the signal and make the gauge read higher relative to the same operating conditions, but it would not really be something you want to bet your engine's life on. If you are really desperate, you could try and look up the wire lead length for another shorter wire, and then make a "best guess" and hope for the best. Far from ideal though.

Pull the gauge back out and see what you find. Hopefully its just a switch thats in the wrong position.

 

[towcat]

..................for all of you who actually HELPED in your replies thanks to you

for the rest of you

all kidding aside, this is a pretty mellow crowd here.
if you're getting butthurt this easily, I got no idea how you can handle other sites.

 

[suv7734]

NO. Unless you have access to the original design paramiters of the gauge, you will only have a poorly educated guess of what the real EGTs are. Shortening the lead wires will increase the signal and make the gauge read higher relative to the same operating conditions, but it would not really be something you want to bet your engine's life on. If you are really desperate, you could try and look up the wire lead length for another shorter wire, and then make a "best guess" and hope for the best. Far from ideal though.

Pull the gauge back out and see what you find. Hopefully its just a switch thats in the wrong position.

For these applications the length of the thermocouple extension wire is not an issue for an accurate reading. The system design parameters will allow for 100+ feet of thermocouple extension wire and still maintain accuracy within the allowable tolerances. The important thing is that all the connections are 'mechanical' and have a good solid connection. Do not use anything other than the correct thermocouple extension wire. That is as long as you are using the correct thermocouple type for the gauge (IE type K thermocouple for a type K gauge). The insulation on the two thermocouple wires will tell you what type of thermocouple you have, type K (typical for these applications) will have yellow and red insulation, type J will have white and red insulation. Any other color combination indicates a different 'type' that may or may not be suitable.

 

[fastass350]

I don't have any input for the IDI's, but my 04 Cummins 4dr auto 4wd, all stock cept a 5" pipe and muffler, will hit 1300 if I stuff it on the highway, empty, by the time it his 75mph. Pulling hard up hills, empty, it'll climb to that if I don't back off, loaded I can hardly put my foot into it before it comes around 1200. I think it needs more intake air and a smarty to cool it down

 

[dyoung14]

all BS aside. its only gonna read 4 cylinders anyway. i cant very well put that probe on both sides of the engine at once now can i?

and who cares if it IS for a **** burner? exhaust gas temp is exhaust gas temp.

i coulda bought one for a damn airplane and it still would have read close to correctly.

bottom line is the gauge reads incorrectly, meaning its faulty.

ill be sending it back for a different one this week.

for all of you who actually HELPED in your replies thanks to you

for the rest of you

 

[typ4]

I know this is basic ,but recheck all your connections, All the t-couples I have seen are screw and nut connections not bullet like I think I see in the pic, bad grounds raise hell with gauges in these trucks also.

 

[OLDBULL8]

all BS aside. its only gonna read 4 cylinders anyway. i cant very well put that probe on both sides of the engine at once now can i? probe is drilled and tapped into manifold between 6 and 7 cyl on drivers side

Evidently you are trying to read all 8 cylinders, # 6 is on the drivers side, # 7 is on the passengers side.

and who cares if it IS for a **** burner? exhaust gas temp is exhaust gas temp.

Your correct on that one. Score 1

i coulda bought one for a damn airplane and it still would have read close to correctly.

You don't put an EGT gauge in to read close.

bottom line is the gauge reads incorrectly, meaning its faulty.

So you know it reads incorrectly, why all the questions ?

ill be sending it back for a different one this week.

Yes it is ill.

for all of you who actually HELPED in your replies thanks to you

for the rest of you

I don't know why anyone would even answer questions from a SA like you.

Lighten up, life is short, don't be so thin skinned.

 

[jactoy4x4]

haha. im the most light hearted SOB youll ever talk to.

for all you guys know, the post was a test to see how light hearted all of YOU were

but seriously im new to this whole diesel thing so i wont ask a question unless id like the answer in the least "SA" (oldbull) way.

my gauge started reading correctly yesterday after i bounded my truck around pretty good yankin my buddy out so im assuming a poor connection. freeway cruises at about 550. i havent been able to put load behind my truck yet to test it but when i get on her in 4th at say 2k it climbs to 1100 and wont go higher.

 

[jactoy4x4]

"all BS aside. its only gonna read 4 cylinders anyway. i cant very well put that probe on both sides of the engine at once now can i? probe is drilled and tapped into manifold between 6 and 7 cyl on drivers side"

"Evidently you are trying to read all 8 cylinders, # 6 is on the drivers side, # 7 is on the passengers side."

so im learning how to count cylinders....haha. it is ACTUALLY between 4 and 6. so if i got it right thats drivers side....between the two center most cylinders. correct?

do you think it would read hotter if it was behind the exit of the the last cylinder? number 8? being as the exhaust from all four would pass it instead of just two?

 

[Cat_Rebel]

All you really need is one unless you are REALLY **** about your truck & want to see what both sides are doing.