E4OD Won't shift past 2nd

KCFabrication

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Like the title says.

I picked up a 1990 7.3 idi crew cab 4x4 for 1500$

It drives through 1st and 2nd fine while driving around town, but wont shift past into 3rd or over drive. The light does not blink.

I thinking its the shift solenoid. Lordco here in BC Canada said 90$ so I was going to drop one off at the shop its at to get fixed as well as a B&M Shift kit seeing there on sale for 100$ right now.

I've replaced tps, mlps, vss. all my gauges are working like speedo and tach.

Tranny fluid was fine, just normal wear and tear fluid looked good no chucks of anything. and shift smoothly from 1st and 2nd?

I posted this thread because I need more reassurance this is the problem. Im tired of sinking money into it guessing what it is because of what I read on the internet, but after a week of reading im 90% sure this is the problem.

Has any one else has these problems?

This is my first e4od, or even an automatic in a Loong time. I honestly cant remember the last automatic i had. If anyone has anything to add or questions or even say i'm on the right track that would be great.

Thanks in advance. Ive searched your forums for an answer before posting this but nothing seems to really match the problems i have been experiencing.



Next winter i'll be swapping zf5 in for sure. Its just for this spring and summer we need it driving for pulling our horse trailer and hay.

Thanks again guys.
 

LCAM-01XA

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The E4OD only has two shift solenoids, SS1 and SS2. It uses them as follows:

1st gear: both SS1 and SS2 are on.
2nd gear: SS1 on, SS2 off.
3rd gear: SS1 off, SS2 on
4th gear: both SS1 and SS2 are off.

Both solenoids receive 12V power as long as the ignition is on. The computer grounds them as needed to complete their circuit and thus engage them. Based on your description it would seem that SS1 is grounded all the time and thus prevets the fluid from redirecting properly thru the valve body to engage the top two gears.

Is it possible the solenoid pack "shorted" internally - I suppose yes. But there may be something much more trivial going on. These trucks are getting up there in age, and as that happens the insulation on some wires tends to shrink, this often means the insulation pulls out of the connectors at the ends of said wires. Adding heat around the wires accelerates the process - care to take a guess where the connector for the solenoid pack on the E4OD is? Yup, right next to the exhaust pipe!!! Well there is a steel deflecting shield between the two, and the harness itself is wrapped in some decent insulating sleeve, but stil years after years of the heat soaking the area does have some effect on things. So I suggest that you remove that shield (10mm wrench for the bolts IIRC) and then you pull that sleeve up and away from the connector and then inspect the wires where they exit the connector. Seen it more than once where the insulation had shrunk so much there was a good length of bare wire right out of the connector, i they touch the transmission can behave all sorts of stupid. Repair is easy enough, you just pull the pins out of the connector one at a time then slide thin heat-shrink tubing past their business end till its covering the exposed section of the wire and then hit it with either a heat gun or even just a cheap cigarette lighter to make it shrink and reseal the wire.

Even if the wires are 100% good, you should still disconnect the harness from the solenoid pack and inspect the solenoid "socket" with a dental mirror - you're looking for traces of transmission fluid down at the bottom, there should be none. If that checks out just clean both the socket and the harness connector and add some dielectric grease to the gonnector to keep moisture at bay.

Try that, report back with your findings.
 

riotwarrior

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Welcome to OB.

Guys this fella is local to me we met I zent him here...why...cause u all know ***** tons more n most and can help him out....dont look at me I run hand shakers and know nadda bout E4OD.

lets get him going...young fella wants a decent truck!
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Either the SS1 has quit or the 2-3 shift valve is stuck.

here's the 2-3 shift valve location for ya KCFabrication.
#11.

basic help getting to it;
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...go-s-E40D-HD2-D-reprogramming-kit-(shift-kit)

don't worry,it's nowhere near as intimidating as it looks.1 step at a time and it's easy peasy lemon squeezy.....and actually quite fun imo.no point in installing a kit or anything since you plan to swap trans ♫ but the info will get ya there and back if it's not the solenoid pack.♫ :D
 

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