E4OD revs in drive, unless overdrive is turned off

trackspeeder

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Got the transmission out, and pulled out the front half. The overdrive sprag has come apart as I suspected. Sprag races will need to be replaced as well, and did a number on the surface of the planetary set, but should still be usable. Friction discs look good so far, steels have a few heat spots. I believe I've found where the debris on the magnet have come from. I'll get the back half out when I get it to the shop next week. Now to plan my build...

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Planetary sets are cheap. If you have damage to the carrier or gears, replace it.
 

mccall52

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Finishing up Transgo Tugger kit installation, will be going back together with transmission soon. Updating overdrive sprag to 1995 and later design. Also found NOS metal sprag washers, I'll be replacing the plastic ones. Getting ready to pull the trigger on a torque convertor, either an HD design or a triple disc lockup clutch, can't decide. Hope to have the truck on the road for good in the next couple of weeks, things always get super busy towards the end of the year.
 

trackspeeder

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Go with a multi disk converter. They're worth the extra coin. Either way make sure you get a billet cover. Most HD designed converters use a stock stamped cover that is prone to warping.
 

mccall52

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Transmission back in, these things always take twice as long as I anticipate. Especially with holidays, colder weather, and no more daylight savings time. That's what I get for waiting until the end of the year to get a project truck.

Anyway, my maiden voyage (around the neighborhood at least) consisted of a transmission that shifts VERY well, almost to luxury car standards. Takes off when shifted into 'D', quite happy with the results.

I did go with a three disc torque convertor. Between that and the tugger kit, this should be a fairly stout transmission.

Will still trigger a flashing 'OD' light out on the highway though. I'm finally getting to what may have caused the transmission failure initially. Flashes immediately after starting the engine, still in park. I'm suspecting a bad or out of adjustment FIPL, or perhaps a range sensor (MLPS). Tach reads OK, not terribly suspicious of the tach sensor, but I have a feeling it will get replaced anyway before it's all said and done. I'm of the notion it would need to compare the RPMs against a VSS signal, not plausible in park.

Next step is to test the FIPL adjustment.
 

mccall52

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My snap on brick scanner is a bit tricky, but I finally got reliable results. I cleared the fault, drove until OD flash, check code, cleared again, did this three times. 23 FIPL out of range each time. Usually takes a mile or so on the highway (50 to 60mph) to trigger fault.

Between getting my transmission back in and this post, I did adjust the FIPL sensor. 1.17v at rest, 3.75v WOT. Measured 5.0v reference voltage. FIPL sensor is grey with Ford logo, so it's been replaced at some point, time for another?

Just to clarify, I did test the MLPS using some resistance range values I found on another forum (the acceptable resistance window for each lever position are quite wide). My actual measurements fell almost dead center each time, so I'm a lot less suspicious of the MLPS. I've noticed nothing unusual regarding tach or speedometer operation either.

Any input is appreciated. Thanks for your help.
 
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