E4OD Rebuild

[aofarrell2]

SO after several years I finally joined the IDI crowd Bought myself a 1990 F250 with the 7.3 diesel and an E4OD (yep it's 4wd). Engine only has 45k on it as it was replaced. I bought it knowing the transmission was bad, at the time it had no reverse so I tried to limp it home and lets just say it decided to crap out the rest of the way. But for getting a perfectly good old steel snowplow with it and a good strong engine I got a steal of a deal. Needs some TLC here and there but hey I love working on these old trucks.

So now I'm going to rebuild the transmission myself. This will be the first auto I've rebuilt (I've rebuilt manuals before). I've had E4ODs in the past and like them well so manual swap is out of the picture (Why? Anything is better than a Dodge auto. Lol. Plus I know they are reliable).

I'm planning to do some upgrades while I'm in it as I am planning to use in the next truck I get (hopefully a bricknose crew cab dually). Next truck will be used primarily for towing some heavy loads (14k+) and planning to run about 400-450hp through it.

So far I already know I need a torque converter, new front pump, new input shaft, steel planet carriers/gears, new center support.

I am looking for recommendations on a torque converter, wanting one with a 1400 RPM stall but can't seem to find that. I don't want stock but I also don't want a 1200 stall. I like the Precision Industry converter a lot but wanting some input. The RacerX ones look pretty good as well. Things are pricy but I don't want to cheap out either on one of the more important parts...

I am also wondering what front pump I should get? What about the front pump seal? I seem to recall there was a better seal available that didn't fail as easily.

For valve body looking at a RacerX one. Any input on that?

Going to build my own controller using the GPIO board from MS. It's actually a pretty comprehensive controller. That will come later - stock controller will have to be used for a little while.

For clutches I am looking at E4OD ULTIMATE KIT 89-1995 RED EAGLE EXTRA CLUTCHES & SEALS from RacerX.

Definitely getting an upgraded auxiliary cooler, will probably bypass the radiator altogether as I don't trust having coolant leak into my trans accidentally. Don't ask me... Lol. Planning to get an auxiliary external filter kit as well.

Getting a better pan with a drain plug, not going to mess around with fluid changes. I change my fluid every 15,000 miles and dropping the pan is a huge pain and very messy.

Also replacing the MLPS and MLPS pigtail/connector. I seem to recall that the later MLPS is a digital sensor vs the older analog one, will that work with the factory controller or?

Anything else I am missing? Any input? I'm all ears as I want it to be a good transmission. I've already got the ATSG book, need to grab the updates CDROM yet. Paycheck by paycheck...

Also, I've got all the basic assortment of tools, but what special tools do I HAVE to have? I remember there was at least one tool that had to be had to work on these E4ODs.

I appreciate any input/info!

 

[trackspeeder]

Get some manual first. ATSG makes a good manual. You will need both copies for your early E4. The ATSG manual will give you the special tool list that you will need.

If you're going with RacerX. Give him a shout. He will help you.

Front pump, you want a pump with the F5 on it. The E9 pumps will not flow enough fluid for a built tranny.

Front pump seal. You want a Viton seal. This ill come in a RacerX kit.

Torque converter. Go with RacerX. I tossed one on my 90 F350. I found it to be a great reasonably priced converter.

Valve body ( Accumulator body) You could go with RacerX. You could do it yourself with a Sonnax or TransGo Tugger kit.

When using Alto frictions, always use the provided specs. Ford specs are a little sloppy for Alto's frictions. Always soak them in ATF before installing.

A good cooler is a must have for a stock or modified E4. They do not like heat. DO not eliminate the factory cooler in the radiator. This is the primary cooler. It does most of the cooling. Specially when in reverse, or stop and go traffic.

A better pan can be sourced from your Ford Dealer. Use a 4R100 pan. You will get a drain plug and a reusable pan gasket.

Ok, I see you have the ATSG manual. Read it. Make sure you have a good inch pound torque wrench. A good straight edge and feeler gauges.

The straight edge is to check the tranny case and valve bodies for straightness.

Once you have the tranny apart, you can see what needs to be done with the center support. For anything over 400HP there will be some machine work to do here. You don't want this part moving around. Your tranny will not last very long when ti does move.

There is a ton of other stuff that can be added. But you need to see what you have to work with first.

 

[aofarrell2]

Thanks for the info! I'll post back here once I get into disassembly and see whats in there. I know that this transmission has been rebuilt once already - but it was rebuilt by one of the local shops here that really doesn't do that good of a job - it doesn't have that many miles on it since the rebuild.

Another question, should I replace the solenoid pack while I'm in it? No clue on them working right as the trans never has functioned right for me.

 

[JLtoolman]

Get the codes out of the controller. They should point you toward the reason for failure.

Put in a 4R100 bypass, with the larger 99 up lines (3/8").

 

[aofarrell2]

So I went to try to pull codes from the controller and it won't run any tests or report any codes, not even so much as a code 11. So no clue on codes.

4R100 bypass, if I read correctly, doesn't that require some drilling on the case?

 

[JLtoolman]

So I went to try to pull codes from the controller and it won't run any tests or report any codes, not even so much as a code 11. So no clue on codes.

4R100 bypass, if I read correctly, doesn't that require some drilling on the case?

I wonder if that may be the problem that took out your transmission.

I will let you know for sure, but I don't think so. I am doing mine.

 

[trackspeeder]

Thanks for the info! I'll post back here once I get into disassembly and see whats in there. I know that this transmission has been rebuilt once already - but it was rebuilt by one of the local shops here that really doesn't do that good of a job - it doesn't have that many miles on it since the rebuild.

Another question, should I replace the solenoid pack while I'm in it? No clue on them working right as the trans never has functioned right for me.

Yes, replace the solenoid pack.

 

[trackspeeder]

So I went to try to pull codes from the controller and it won't run any tests or report any codes, not even so much as a code 11. So no clue on codes.

4R100 bypass, if I read correctly, doesn't that require some drilling on the case?

The 4R100 bypass requires no drilling.

 

[aofarrell2]

I wonder if that may be the problem that took out your transmission.

I will let you know for sure, but I don't think so. I am doing mine.

I'd think it would still have reverse regardless and park but might have been complicating things. It would go forward regardless of what the gear selector was in...

 

[88 Ford]

I like all of the Racer X stuff as well. Can't go wrong there. As for the pan iirc Mag Hytek makes a deeper pan that would help keep things cooler.

 

[88 Ford]

Here you go.
http://mag-hytec.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5

 

[JLtoolman]

I'd think it would still have reverse regardless and park but might have been complicating things. It would go forward regardless of what the gear selector was in...

Broken shift linkage?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Here you go.
http://mag-hytec.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=5

According to Mark Kovalsky the E4OD design engineer, those Mag pans are almost useless as far as any additional cooling. Of course if you want a pretty trans pan go for it. Plenty of standard pans with drains on Amazon, for a whole lot less.

Since you have a 4X4, you should have the deep pan, should measure 6"+ deep.IIRC OEM pan is 3-1/2" for a 2WD.

Your shifting problem could be the MLPS or just the harness connector.

Also replacing the MLPS and MLPS pigtail/connector. I seem to recall that the later MLPS is a digital sensor vs the older analog one, will that work with the factory controller or?

Just seen this. The Digital sensor is totally different, there for the 4R100, You need the MLPS.

 

[trackspeeder]

MLPS is obsolete. It was replaced by a Transmission Range Sensor. This part is now used on all E4s.

DTRS Digital Transmission Range Sensor is used on all 4R100s. This is the digital version.

When you go to buy a range sensor, you might have to call it a neutral safety switch. Most parts store will give you a lost look when asking for a TRS.

 

[Mikey89014]

Tools needed are piston compressors ( I made one of mine), and good snap ring pliers .Thats just diassembly and assembly . Also inch pound torque wrench, feeler gauges, air compressor, hydraulic press, straight edge and regular tools needed as well