Brianedwardss
Registered User
1988 F150 Diesel? 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_5838wt_1026
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_5838wt_1026
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DNE2 on eBay
- Thread starter Brianedwardss
- Start date
MUDKICKR
Full Access Member
the f150 is prob a misprint, but that does look like a c6 tail shaft housing. if that worried just give the guy a call?
Brianedwardss
Registered User
Anyone know the ratio of the DNE OD unit, or if they're any good.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
The only thing I'd worry about is if it's really an O/D instead of an U/Drive. There is no way to tell other than actually spinning the tranny or looking at the marks on the case, I even forget what they mean. The O/D is 1:1 in direct and .8 in over, the U/drive is 1.25 in under 1:1 in direct. US Gear no longer supports these at all but the electronics are simple standardized parts you could find most places. Towcat and Warden have worked on rebuilding one so I'd defer to them in terms of hard part questions. They are generally thought to be tougher than a GV.
Brianedwardss
Registered User
Thanks for that. The controller in the pic just says Hi / Low. Hmmm
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
This is a fine unit. They run a little hotter than a GV and these are direct drive gears. No clutches in them. You ask it to shift. Then let off the power peddle and it shifts. They are noisy so others have told me. The reason I went with a GV is simple. If a GV breaks you still have all your normal gear ratios and can continue along your merry way. If a DN breaks your stopped right there till its fixed. Towcat has seen some trashed GV that puked the insides out of themselves. I do not know what caused this type of failure. Sometimes I wonder if I should have installed a DN unit instead of the GV. The BTS E4OD and the GV cost me right at $8000.00.
Thats a lot of money to have tied up in a trans... But I feel I got something that will not let me down no matter what I do to it. I run a deep sump pan made by Mag Hitech. It adds an extra two gallons of atf to the trans.....
Thats a lot of money to have tied up in a trans... But I feel I got something that will not let me down no matter what I do to it. I run a deep sump pan made by Mag Hitech. It adds an extra two gallons of atf to the trans.....
1994Diesel
Constantly thinking
This is a fine unit. They run a little hotter than a GV and these are direct drive gears. No clutches in them. You ask it to shift. Then let off the power peddle and it shifts. They are noisy so others have told me. The reason I went with a GV is simple. If a GV breaks you still have all your normal gear ratios and can continue along your merry way. If a DN breaks your stopped right there till its fixed. Towcat has seen some trashed GV that puked the insides out of themselves. I do not know what caused this type of failure. Sometimes I wonder if I should have installed a DN unit instead of the GV. The BTS E4OD and the GV cost me right at $8000.00.
I covet your transmission, Gary.
The biggest concern is finding parts...I got lucky with mine; was able to find a guy (a friend of a friend 
) who was able to fabricate replacement thrust washers for mine, and internally, it was in good shape otherwise. These units are no longer supported by U.S. Gear in any way 
..if the price on this unit doesn't go up too much higher, I may snag it just for the wiring harness and for replacement parts. I haven't been able to figure out definitively how important and/or reproducible that control box you see in the last pic is, and that's my single biggest concern about the unit that I have (I have absolutely zero wiring for mine).
I haven't installed mine yet for a number of reasons, but from what I understand, they're stronger than the GV units and can be shifted at any speed (IIRC GV units can't be shifted below about 25 mph). IIRC the biggest/most expensive fail point is the electric motor...if you treat it well and shift it properly, it'll last a good long time, but if you don't, that'll be the first failure point.
To be completely honest, if I had known about the lack of support/parts availability on the DNE/U.S. Gear units before I bought mine, I might have gone for a GV instead (even though one of the big selling points of the DNE unit is that it goes between the tranny and the transfer case on a 4x4, so you can use it in 4H)...with that said, once I get the electrics figured out, mine should last a long while
That's my $.02...is anyone on here going to make a go for this one?
) who was able to fabricate replacement thrust washers for mine, and internally, it was in good shape otherwise. These units are no longer supported by U.S. Gear in any way ..if the price on this unit doesn't go up too much higher, I may snag it just for the wiring harness and for replacement parts. I haven't been able to figure out definitively how important and/or reproducible that control box you see in the last pic is, and that's my single biggest concern about the unit that I have (I have absolutely zero wiring for mine).I haven't installed mine yet for a number of reasons, but from what I understand, they're stronger than the GV units and can be shifted at any speed (IIRC GV units can't be shifted below about 25 mph). IIRC the biggest/most expensive fail point is the electric motor...if you treat it well and shift it properly, it'll last a good long time, but if you don't, that'll be the first failure point.
To be completely honest, if I had known about the lack of support/parts availability on the DNE/U.S. Gear units before I bought mine, I might have gone for a GV instead (even though one of the big selling points of the DNE unit is that it goes between the tranny and the transfer case on a 4x4, so you can use it in 4H)...with that said, once I get the electrics figured out, mine should last a long while
That's my $.02...is anyone on here going to make a go for this one?
Brianedwardss
Registered User
Honestly, I'm goin for it if it doesn't go for a ridiculous amount. I've been looking for an overdrive for over two years now. I've boughten 2 GV units in that time that both turned out to be completely wasted and filled with crud.
If you end up with it, how are you planning to get it up to OR?
I ask because I drive between the S.F. area and the L.A. area fairly regularly, and also run between here and the Eureka area fairly regularly (I have family in both places) and I really want to spend some quality time looking at how the wiring goes together...maybe we can work something out?
I ask because I drive between the S.F. area and the L.A. area fairly regularly, and also run between here and the Eureka area fairly regularly (I have family in both places) and I really want to spend some quality time looking at how the wiring goes together...maybe we can work something out?
Brianedwardss
Registered User
He says he'll ship it UPS ground to the lower 48. If I get it, I'll do a write-up with lots of pics (like I've done with alot of idi projects). I'm sure you know that the two electrical studs on the motor are both positives, and the ground is through the body. All thats required to run it is a standard 2-speed axle switch with three wires. 1 wire being 30A fused/breakered positive in, and 2 positive outputs from the switch, 1 to each terminal on the motor.
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Brianedwardss
Registered User
Forgot to mention that I have a week planned in Disneyland in December, which is what's put obtaining an overdrive on the front burner. If everything works out, we could meet up in person then.
Actually, I'm not sure that both studs on the motor are positives...I was under the impression that it's a reversing-polarity motor, so you apply +12V to one side and run the other side to ground to shift one way, and reverse it to shift the other way. But, I'm not certain either way...at the same time, I'm not sure if the motor will self-shut-off if +12V is applied continuously or if you need a switch (or control box) that will cut off power after X seconds to keep from burning the motor out.
Like I said, a number of questions that I haven't found a definitive answer to yet, and I'm nervous about inadvertently burning out a motor that isn't really replaceable...take a look at this thread for a bit more of the discussion...
Oh cool! Let me know what ends up happening...would love to meet up if it's in the cards. Depending on when you head down there, I typically go down to my family in L.A. for Christmas, or we could meet on the way somewhere...
STINEY
Registered User
Any updates on this project?
I have a newly acquired DNE2 with the same outside terminal arrangement, but no wiring except for the electronic shifter control.
Has anyone figured a 100% for certain way to simply wire this unit or is it still speculation?
Thanks!
I have a newly acquired DNE2 with the same outside terminal arrangement, but no wiring except for the electronic shifter control.
Has anyone figured a 100% for certain way to simply wire this unit or is it still speculation?
Thanks!
Sw1tchfoot
Full Access Member
This is information that I saved from the old USGEARS website, which took over the Doug Nash units. I assume this information interchanges between the Doug Nash "DNE2" and the "USGEAR Dual Range"
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION The Dual Range electrical wiring for the automatic consists of a two-circuit system. The first, the control circuit, includes the shift control module, and gray signal switches, protected by an in-line, low amperage fuse. The second, the power circuit, includes the control module and the shift motor protected by a 15 amp automatic re-set circuit breaker.
Under Vehicle
With the Dual Range installed and the vehicle raised, start the harness installation at the right side cover of the Dual Range as follows:
Plug the green terminal with the brown and white wire into the motor (Fig. 1). Attach the green ground wires to the existing screw at the rear of the shift motor.
Plug the signal switch wires on to the appropriate gray switch:
Underdrive: Orange and green wire to front side switch, black and green wire to rear switch.
Overdrive: Orange and green wire to rear switch, black and green wire to front side switch.
Circle harness up and forward and attach with "J" clip to upper top side cover bolt (Fig. 1 or Fig. 2).
Run the main harness up the back of the transmission and through the engine compartment in the left rocker cover area. Pickup trucks exit at point 1, vans and Class "C" motor homes point 2 and Class "A" motor coaches point 3 (Fig. 3). Lower the vehicle and continue the underhood procedure.
Under Hood Locate a cool area for the control module and mount (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5). Pickup trucks have adequate firewall or side panel room, but vans and Class "C" homes are tight. We suggest wire tying the control module to an existing object (harness, etc.) located in an active air area. Ground the green wires to an appropriate body panel and mount the circuit breaker within the length of red harness wire. Attach the red harness wire to the "Aux" side of the circuit breaker and within the length of red harness wire. Attach the red harness wire to the "Aux" side of the circuit breaker and attach loose red wire provided to the "Bat" side of the circuit breaker and attach to an appropriate 12-volt source (direct to "+" post of battery or junction block).
Run the harness for the shift module through the firewall using existing openings or provide a new hole for same. Caution: Be very sure that all wires are properly protected where they pass through the firewall.
Passenger area Install the shift module on the gear shift lever in the most comfortable position for the thumb to reach and for viewing the high and low lights. Wire tie the wiring harness to the shift lever and pass under the dash and plug into the main harness. Run the in-line fuse holder wire to a 12-volt source that is off when the ignition key is in the "oft" position.
Caution: Do not shift the Dual Range while in park or neutral or when the vehicle's cruise control is engaged.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION The Dual Range electrical wiring for the manual transmission uses a simple power circuit consists of a vertical push-pole shift switch, a six wire version of the control module, and the shift motor, all again protected by a 15 amp automatic re-set circuit breaker. No indicator lights are used; the gear selection is indicated by the up or down position of the shift switch.
Under Vehicle The manual transmission harness has only two wires to be connected to the Dual Range. Plug the green terminal with the brown and white wire into the motor as shown in Fig. 1 of the automatic transmission.
Underdrive: White wire to front terminal.
Overdrive: Brown wire to front terminal.
Use the "J" clip in the upper front screw of the side cover. Feed the two-wire harness to the transmission and up the shift lever through the rubber boot, position the shift switch as preferred. Plug the wires in the switch as pictured (Fig. 6). Blue wire to the top for overdrive…Blue wire to the bottom for underdrive. Wire tie the harness to the shift lever.
Run the four wire harness under the vehicle following the floor pan to the firewall. Plug the six-wire male terminal into the female terminal of the control module in a cool active air area (firewall, fender panel, etc.). Run red wire from control module to "Aux" post of the circuit breaker; green wire remaining, to a good ground. Attach red wire provided to the "Bat" side of the circuit breaker and attach to an appropriate 12-volt source (direct to "+" battery or junction block).
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION The Dual Range electrical wiring for the automatic consists of a two-circuit system. The first, the control circuit, includes the shift control module, and gray signal switches, protected by an in-line, low amperage fuse. The second, the power circuit, includes the control module and the shift motor protected by a 15 amp automatic re-set circuit breaker.
Under Vehicle
With the Dual Range installed and the vehicle raised, start the harness installation at the right side cover of the Dual Range as follows:
Plug the green terminal with the brown and white wire into the motor (Fig. 1). Attach the green ground wires to the existing screw at the rear of the shift motor.
Plug the signal switch wires on to the appropriate gray switch:
Underdrive: Orange and green wire to front side switch, black and green wire to rear switch.
Overdrive: Orange and green wire to rear switch, black and green wire to front side switch.
Circle harness up and forward and attach with "J" clip to upper top side cover bolt (Fig. 1 or Fig. 2).
Run the main harness up the back of the transmission and through the engine compartment in the left rocker cover area. Pickup trucks exit at point 1, vans and Class "C" motor homes point 2 and Class "A" motor coaches point 3 (Fig. 3). Lower the vehicle and continue the underhood procedure.
Under Hood Locate a cool area for the control module and mount (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5). Pickup trucks have adequate firewall or side panel room, but vans and Class "C" homes are tight. We suggest wire tying the control module to an existing object (harness, etc.) located in an active air area. Ground the green wires to an appropriate body panel and mount the circuit breaker within the length of red harness wire. Attach the red harness wire to the "Aux" side of the circuit breaker and within the length of red harness wire. Attach the red harness wire to the "Aux" side of the circuit breaker and attach loose red wire provided to the "Bat" side of the circuit breaker and attach to an appropriate 12-volt source (direct to "+" post of battery or junction block).
Run the harness for the shift module through the firewall using existing openings or provide a new hole for same. Caution: Be very sure that all wires are properly protected where they pass through the firewall.
Passenger area Install the shift module on the gear shift lever in the most comfortable position for the thumb to reach and for viewing the high and low lights. Wire tie the wiring harness to the shift lever and pass under the dash and plug into the main harness. Run the in-line fuse holder wire to a 12-volt source that is off when the ignition key is in the "oft" position.
Caution: Do not shift the Dual Range while in park or neutral or when the vehicle's cruise control is engaged.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION The Dual Range electrical wiring for the manual transmission uses a simple power circuit consists of a vertical push-pole shift switch, a six wire version of the control module, and the shift motor, all again protected by a 15 amp automatic re-set circuit breaker. No indicator lights are used; the gear selection is indicated by the up or down position of the shift switch.
Under Vehicle The manual transmission harness has only two wires to be connected to the Dual Range. Plug the green terminal with the brown and white wire into the motor as shown in Fig. 1 of the automatic transmission.
Underdrive: White wire to front terminal.
Overdrive: Brown wire to front terminal.
Use the "J" clip in the upper front screw of the side cover. Feed the two-wire harness to the transmission and up the shift lever through the rubber boot, position the shift switch as preferred. Plug the wires in the switch as pictured (Fig. 6). Blue wire to the top for overdrive…Blue wire to the bottom for underdrive. Wire tie the harness to the shift lever.
Run the four wire harness under the vehicle following the floor pan to the firewall. Plug the six-wire male terminal into the female terminal of the control module in a cool active air area (firewall, fender panel, etc.). Run red wire from control module to "Aux" post of the circuit breaker; green wire remaining, to a good ground. Attach red wire provided to the "Bat" side of the circuit breaker and attach to an appropriate 12-volt source (direct to "+" battery or junction block).
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