Diesel line routing

[rterril02]

I just bought a 1986 ford f250. My uncle hacked up the diesel fuel routing. Now I'm having trouble getting fuel. I want to re route everything correctly, the way it was from the factory. He claimed that the selector valve was malfunctioning, sending all return fuel to the rear tank. He then installed some cheap valve that has given him nothing but problems, yet he is stubborn enough to think that is not the problem. I installed a new mechanical fuel pump before my cousin lent me a mighty vac. With the mighty vac we found out that fuel wasn't making it past the cheap valve. Now i was hoping someone has a diagram, a pic or even an idea about how the fuel lines are routed. also i read online that the fuel tank selector valve can be rebuilt with a few new o-rings and drilling the old rivets. If not does anyone know how to differentiate between the fuel selector valves at the auto parts store. I'm pretty sure that the supply line is 3/8'' and the return line is 5/16''. I have six feet of both. I switch between tanks right next to my ac controls, i think the selector valve is electrical, there are some wires hanging near(2). and the selector valve that is mounted to the frame doesn't have a reservoir. I've read places that my 1986 diesel f250 has a dual function reservoir. I got under and looked but could only find what looks to be a fuel tank selector valve. I'm pretty sure that the fuel is reaching the cheap valve because when I move the valve it leaks fuel.

 

[IDIoit]

i delete both tanks, install a 33-38 gallon rear tank, and delete the fuel switch valve completely.

 

[rterril02]

That a good idea but then don't you loose the spare tire place and I'm a little bit strapped for cash. I want the spare because we are going to use the truck for a work truck(construction), so i plan on lots of hauling and dont want to have to worry about the spare.

 

[IDIoit]

sometimes you gotta make sacrifices, I keep my spare in the bed.
or you can get a bronco spare tire holder

 

[OLDBULL8]

If your gonna keep the FSV, you can take it apart and clean it out, it more than like has some rubber in it from a deteriorated pickup screen in the tank, one in each tank, that screen (shower head) usually falls off.

The fuel suction/supply is 3/8", fuel return is 5/16". You may have the Ford Quick connect lines on the FSV.

To take the FSV apart, just drill the swedged part of the rivet off, then punch the rivet out. There are no O'rings in there. Use #6 self tapping screws to fasten it back together. Use a Brake Kleener to flush it out. Plug off or squeeze the fuel lines from tank or fuel will siphon out.

You should drop both tanks and clean them out.

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[rterril02]

I have a few parts broncos and could use it but then I loose the ability to put full sheets of plywood in my bed along with having to worry about the tire when I'm throwing trash off of a roof. That's something to consider for my 94 fsuperduty. I have trouble going too far in it because it has 5.13's in the back.

 

[rterril02]

Thanks for the cleaning procedure Oldbull8 . I do want to keep it stock.

 

[franklin2]

The selector valves in the stores are the same valves made by the same company, but they do not have the same fittings and electrical connections as the factory valve. They can be made to work, but they need adaptation and if that was not carried out in the neat orderly fashion, that may be some of your problem.

The selector valve has a little motor in it, and besides moving the spool to change the fluid ports, it also has a electrical section that switches the fuel gauge sending units front and rear. That's what all the extra wires are for.

I don't have any pictures of a original setup. I believe you can still get the original valve from Ford, but it's around $200 or so. It will have all the original connections on it, but of course yours are probably all cut off. All these valve finally fail, some people keep battling the valve to keep it working, some just give up and do something else. Right now I am running on just the front 19 gallon tank, I bypassed the valve so it only uses the front tank. I never filled both tanks anyway, I could never afford it till fuel went down in price.

 

[chris142]

You could delete the valve and run off one tank. Use an electric fuel pump to pump fuel from the other tank to fill the tank you run on...that's my plan when my valve dies.

 

[ISELLTRUX]

Is the hard shiny fuel line reusable? I do not see hose clamps on those lines where they hook up on the FSV. Is there a proper way to remove and reattach the shiny fuel line?

 

[79jasper]

I was like "wth you talking about." Lol
The nylon line.
You can heat the end in boiling water then push it on the fitting.

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[gandalf]

Is the hard shiny fuel line reusable? I do not see hose clamps on those lines where they hook up on the FSV. Is there a proper way to remove and reattach the shiny fuel line?

Yes, absolutely, there is a proper way to remove and re-attach those hard lines to the FSV. See the picture below. The sort of triangular shaped clip holds the line to the FSV nipple. Pull that clip off, and then pull the line up and off. You'll very likely have to replace the clip, having damaged it during removal. You can buy them at most any parts store. It's a Dorman part, number uncertain, I think with a 500 in it. Print the picture and take it to the store.

For reference sake, the picture is a '92 FSV.

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[ISELLTRUX]

Plug off or squeeze the fuel lines from tank or fuel will siphon out.

What or how would you go about doing this to the nylon fuel line. One tank is full.

 

[rterril02]

I bought a siphon pump from harbor freight and emptied most of the diesel out of both tanks to make sure and not make a huge mess.

 

[franklin2]

What or how would you go about doing this to the nylon fuel line. One tank is full.

Just bend it around till it kinks. Never seems to permanently damage it.

To use these lines over and not use the factory system with the clips and o-ring fittings, a plain hose barb fitting will work. Someone said put the line in boiling water to make it soft. I have also heated the metal barb fitting itself, not too much just a little bit, and then shoved the nylon line over the barb. And then a very small hose clamp around it. Works good for me.