diesel first timer

[adriantkt]

thank's everybody,


last week we finished rebuilding the transmission,
filled with 3.5 quarters of ATF
and 2 on the transfercase same ATF,
in the weekend i tow my trailer with 2 horses(around 6000 lbs) it work like a beast a little slow on hills around 30 mph
the transmission shift smooth on every gear
everything went fine, temperature and oil pressure gauge never moved
now i'm planning to check the compression and change the oil pan gasket because it's draining a little bit of oil,
and will save money to get a turbo

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[Hydro-idi]

Excellent job & nice rig you got there! Looks like you know what your doing which is great, but no harm in asking us questions if you need help!
I would definitely get a pyro to monitor egts if you don't already have one. I plan on selling my pristine Ats 088 turbo kit in the near future, and am not running it on my new reman engine. Plan on doing a custom turbo in the near future so it will run n/a for now. Anyways, I was very surprised to see how much higher the egts get without the turbo. Still can't believe that ford didn't install a pyro from the factory. Everyone should have one IMO.

 

[adriantkt]

thanks for the info on the pyrometer,
they're a little bit expensive but a good accessory to keep the machine running properly
definitely i will buy one soon

send me an pm i will take it from you!
how much are you planning to ask?

 

[Hydro-idi]

PM sent.

 

[icanfixall]

Good to see you up and running with no issues but... Never install an oil pan gasket. I realize some gasket maker has been selling them but we never had a gasket from the factory. The factory way to seal the oil pan is to use RTV and not a cork or rubber gasket. They just do not work plus. This kind of a repair can only be done correctly by removing the engine. There is not enough room to get the pan off the engine. When you change oil reach up in the drain hole for the oil pump suction head. Its about 18 inch from the bottom of the pan. Then you have to remove the gear driven oil pump from the bottom of the block. Then it drops into the pan. The suction line has a bracket bolted to the number 3 main bearing too. Its a job you will hate trying for sure. I realize some will say its a doable job but really... Our wrists just wont bend like is needed to reach in to grab the oil pump and hold it in place when you reinstall it. Ask around and decide before you try this. If you have oil dripping from the passenger side back of the engine thats probably coming from the valley pan. Way back behind the CDR valve at the back of the intake manifold is a drain hole in the valley pan. So any oils or fuel will drain out thru that hole and can only run down over the passenger side and starter. Again.. Ask around.. We have plenty to offer here and we never sleep. This place is open round the clock. Even on holidays...

 

[adriantkt]

Thanks @icanfixall,
that's what the mechanics on my place told me that the oil leaking was above the starter
first thought it was the pan gasket now i will check the CDR valve

i will try to upload a video so you can hear the engine running

 

[adriantkt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ik8GXnec9cg

here's the engine already running

and here its a cold start
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OdAF9VXDas

 

[Hydro-idi]

Sounds like a healthy engine but it does sound like it's either advanced a little much or the cold advance plunger in the IP is either activated or sticking. Does it always sound like that?

 

[adriantkt]

on the first video the engine was already warm
it had like 20 minutes running before i record it


where i can find the IP?

 

[Hydro-idi]

IP stands for injection pump. It is located on the top center of engine with metal lines connected to it & the injectors.
If you haven't timed the engine, I would strongly recommend doing so in the near future. Timing engine to 8.5-9.5 btdc will really bring these engines back to life, not to mention decreased egts & improved fuel economy. IP's & injectors last around 125k miles. If there is any gray paint on these items, they are original & will need to be replaced at some point.

 

[adriantkt]

ooh ok, now i get it!
i will look and check the gray paint if it still on the injectors


what about the rmp's while running?
i was driving around 55 mph and 2000 rpm i think its a little bit slow to drive on the freeway

 

[adriantkt]

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this are the injectors

 

[Hydro-idi]

Looks like the injectors have been replaced at some point along with the return lines which is great. How about the IP??

 

[adriantkt]

tomorrow i take pictures of the IP


about the rpm's
i know that more rmp's means more diesel burned and less mpg
i would like to use my truck as a dd
but i will be driving long distances some days
but i fill its going to take me forever

 

[Hydro-idi]

Don't worry about rpms. You can run these engines off the governor all day long and many do. I cruise around in mine @ 3k rpm for hours at a time. They were designed for that. Bump it up to 70 & relax. I would consistently get around 16 mpg cruising around 2600-3000 rpm going down hwy without load. Of course, every vehicle is different.