79jasper
Chickenhawk
I like "the right stuff." Any rtv will be about the same to remove later.
It sets up fairly quick as well.
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It sets up fairly quick as well.
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Dana 70 oil weight? (also, gaskets)
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
The black one on is just a thin paper gasket, use that if you want it to leak. The blue one is a thicker paper/cardboard. Those can work sometimes if the surface is clean, flat, and the cover is the same way.
I use gear oil rtv. Comes in a tube from permatex. I've had regular black and even the right stuff start to leak overtime.
Clean both surfaces, make the bead, let it sit for half an hour or so to crust over, and then install the cover and go. Says full cure in 24 hours, I've never waited that long. Don't be too liberal with it so that it squeezes into the axle, just enough to seal it.
I use gear oil rtv. Comes in a tube from permatex. I've had regular black and even the right stuff start to leak overtime.
Clean both surfaces, make the bead, let it sit for half an hour or so to crust over, and then install the cover and go. Says full cure in 24 hours, I've never waited that long. Don't be too liberal with it so that it squeezes into the axle, just enough to seal it.
Has anyone heard of Lube Locker differential gaskets? The have very high reviews on Crapazon where it's priced the same, except it has free shipping ($7 savings over the official website). It's more expensive than a paper gasket+RTV, or just RTV alone, but it says no RTV is required, it's reusable, and you can instantly refill the differential. Sounds ideal for my needs.
https://www.lubelocker.com/product/llr-d060/
I'm sure the oil is going to be insanely old. There's no telling when it was last changed, 30 years ago is entirely possible. So, I would like to change it at least one extra time. I'm thinking about dumping in some of this cheapo $15/gal SuperTech 85w140 and running it for a few hundred miles to help clean the bearings and gears of muck, then drain it. I might give it a second treatment of if the first fill still looks like crap when it gets drained.
I don't want to fill it with $50 worth of 75w140 Valvoline full synthetic and have to do it all over again in a few months from it being contaminated.
What do Dana 60/70 (same basic thing) call for API spec wise though? That might prevent me from using the $15/gal stuff. There is 75w90 full synthetic for about $24/gal (4x $6/qt) which is still better than $50 per fill down the drain pan. I don't know yet if it has limited slip, so that's another thing to consider.
A reusable, rubber gasket for $21 would make the repeated job of draining a lot easier since I need to do it without raising the RV and do the work in parking lots. I will only have to scrape the surfaces once to remove RTV/old gasket material before using the rubber gasket and then it's good, aside from being wiped down good to remove any dirt.
https://www.lubelocker.com/product/llr-d060/
I'm sure the oil is going to be insanely old. There's no telling when it was last changed, 30 years ago is entirely possible. So, I would like to change it at least one extra time. I'm thinking about dumping in some of this cheapo $15/gal SuperTech 85w140 and running it for a few hundred miles to help clean the bearings and gears of muck, then drain it. I might give it a second treatment of if the first fill still looks like crap when it gets drained.
I don't want to fill it with $50 worth of 75w140 Valvoline full synthetic and have to do it all over again in a few months from it being contaminated.
What do Dana 60/70 (same basic thing) call for API spec wise though? That might prevent me from using the $15/gal stuff. There is 75w90 full synthetic for about $24/gal (4x $6/qt) which is still better than $50 per fill down the drain pan. I don't know yet if it has limited slip, so that's another thing to consider.
A reusable, rubber gasket for $21 would make the repeated job of draining a lot easier since I need to do it without raising the RV and do the work in parking lots. I will only have to scrape the surfaces once to remove RTV/old gasket material before using the rubber gasket and then it's good, aside from being wiped down good to remove any dirt.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
They've been brought up a few times, I would try one.
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I use 80w90 std gear oil (5 gal; w/ bucket pump) and ultra-black RTV (by the caulking tube) on all my diffs. Only two supplies to keep on hand. I can change diff oil on anything on zero-notice, and even do it again at low cost if something goes wrong.
IMO, the gasket is just another thing to buy, and an extra pain the butt to scrape off later.
I have not added friction modifier to anything in the last 10+ years. I figure anything that's supposed to get it is half worn out anyway, so its needs some extra grip... lol! I can alway jam in a bottle of friction modifier later if I really think it needs it.
IMO, the gasket is just another thing to buy, and an extra pain the butt to scrape off later.
I have not added friction modifier to anything in the last 10+ years. I figure anything that's supposed to get it is half worn out anyway, so its needs some extra grip... lol! I can alway jam in a bottle of friction modifier later if I really think it needs it.
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I ordered the "Lube Locker" rubber gasket earlier.
I have a post over on BITOG asking about gear oil specs for D70 axles. I might just use $15/gal conventional if it's an open diff, and if API-GL5 is ok for an 85 D70. With the rubber gasket, I can very easily change it annually for cheap. If I do, I'm stuck with one $13 bottle of 75w140 full synth from Crapazon, not easily to return so I'll keep it. The other one I have is from WM so it can go back in-store. I was adding 1 bottle to orders online to bring me up to free shipping totals with other items.
$52 for 4qts of 75w140 full synth
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-SynPower-Full-Synthetic-SAE-75W-140-Gear-Oil-1-Quart/163608640
$15 for 1 gallon (4qts) of 80w140 conventional
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-Gear-Lubricant-SAE-85W-140-1-Gallon/16795066
Close enough, less than 1/3 the price. But, if I need limited slip, that's an extra ~$10 for the separate additive. But at $25 total, that's still half the cost.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
If running full synthetic, you may not need the additive. If lsd, only put in the gear oil, if it chatters add a little additive until it goes away.
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The Valvoline full synth has the additive in it already, it says "Limited Slip" on the front label. The cheap conventional has less API specs and doesn't mention LS.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Right, but if you have too much additive, you wont have a lsd. Lol
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I dug up an old Dana 70 LS service manual. It calls for 80w90 at Mil. Spec. L-2105-C *and* API GL-5.
According to this Amsoil bulletin:
So, I guess API GL-5 is the same thing as L-2105-C now. Maybe it always was, and Spicer/Dana just worded it strangely.
SuperTech conv. 80w90 says in smaller print on the back, "Recommended for Limited Slip/Positive Traction rear axles." And in larger letters API GL-5.
I guess I'll start with that during the cleaning process and see how it does.
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According to this Amsoil bulletin:
So, I guess API GL-5 is the same thing as L-2105-C now. Maybe it always was, and Spicer/Dana just worded it strangely.
SuperTech conv. 80w90 says in smaller print on the back, "Recommended for Limited Slip/Positive Traction rear axles." And in larger letters API GL-5.
I guess I'll start with that during the cleaning process and see how it does.
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Garbage_Mechan
Garbage Mechanic
This is called Right Stuff. In my truck fleet shop (100+ trash trucks) all other silicone sealants were banned. Right Stuff the only product allowed.
It is so much better than RTV there is no comparison! What I did learn the hard way was not to put stock small block Chevy valve covers with it. Literally destroyed them when I tried to remove them the next time. I learned... if putting tin covers on with Right Stiff, lightly grease the head, put the sealant on the valve covers. Tighten down until the sealant is evenly starting to ooze. Wait overnight. VC now have reusable gaskets!
My buddy who works on logging equipment... same thing about the right stuff.
I started using Ultra-Black over 20 years ago - no issues. Much better seal/grip than standard RTV flavours. I'll save the $$ over the right stuff.
There is gear oil specific RTV by Permatex for about $5-6 on Crapazon. It's about $11 in stores. If the rubber gasket doesn't work out, I will probably see about returning it if possible, and get some of that instead.
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-gear-oil-rtv-gasket-maker/
I just put one in my sterling 10.25. Badass. It was a bit more spendy but so much easier to install. No leaks yet. My dad runs heavy vehicle maintenance on a farm and that's all he uses on all their diffs, he likes that it can be reused and cuts down on cleaning/prep time.
Cool. As mentioned, I want to change it least once after a short amount of time to clean it out good so it will pay for itself vs RTV, and a lot easier.
I carry one of these GarageBoss 12.5 quart drain pans in my hitch mounted cargo box, big enough for an 11qt engine oil drain. It stores upright in the cargo box so even if it's got 11qts in it, the capped holes end up at the top, lessening the likely of leakage during transport.
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