D 60 swap

[frankenwrench]

I am about to start pulling a d60 off of a 90 cc dually in my yard with 3.55s for my 91 super cab 2wd f250 srw. What all do I need to do to make this mod work without the dually rims up front? Frame mods, etc?

 

[Golden Helmet]

This might not be the full list, but I know some of the special items you want to do the swap correctly are gonna be:

- GET THE LEAF SPRINGS. Too many people do this swap, keep their TTB springs, and wonder why it rides awful and has death wobble. Take the leaf springs with the axle, it's part of the package.
- U-Bolt brackets. I forget which side it is, but one of the u-bolt brackets is unique to the D60 and is needed for the swap, get them both just to be safe
- Rear leaf spring blocks. F-350's have larger blocks in the rear than F-250's, and you'll sit either level or nose-high with a D60 and F-250 blocks. If you want the factory F-350 rake, get the rear blocks
- Front drive shaft from the F-350 donor. F-250 driveshafts have issues with length and vibration for some people, some people get away with using the 250's shaft but just get the 350's driveshaft while your there and save yourself a potential headache
- AND get the entire front yoke off the transfer case. The 250 and 350 share the same transfer cases but their front drive shafts need different yokes, and the 350 one is hard to find because D60 swaps are so common.
- The center link thing and the bracket it mounts to on the frame. I'm blanking on their names, but you'll see it.
- Rear overload springs are part of the 350 package, get them if you don't already have them. My 250 already had them from the factory
- Bonus item: if PTO is useful to you, just take the entire t-case. Another F-350 bonus is their transfer cases have a thingymajigger for PTO's. Useless for normal trucks, but some tow trucks and such have use for it

 

[frankenwrench]

This might not be the full list, but I know some of the special items you want to do the swap correctly are gonna be:

- GET THE LEAF SPRINGS. Too many people do this swap, keep their TTB springs, and wonder why it rides awful and has death wobble. Take the leaf springs with the axle, it's part of the package.
- U-Bolt brackets. I forget which side it is, but one of the u-bolt brackets is unique to the D60 and is needed for the swap, get them both just to be safe
- Rear leaf spring blocks. F-350's have larger blocks in the rear than F-250's, and you'll sit either level or nose-high with a D60 and F-250 blocks. If you want the factory F-350 rake, get the rear blocks
- Front drive shaft from the F-350 donor. F-250 driveshafts have issues with length and vibration for some people, some people get away with using the 250's shaft but just get the 350's driveshaft while your there and save yourself a potential headache
- AND get the entire front yoke off the transfer case. The 250 and 350 share the same transfer cases but their front drive shafts need different yokes, and the 350 one is hard to find because D60 swaps are so common.
- The center link thing and the bracket it mounts to on the frame. I'm blanking on their names, but you'll see it.
- Rear overload springs are part of the 350 package, get them if you don't already have them. My 250 already had them from the factory
- Bonus item: if PTO is useful to you, just take the entire t-case. Another F-350 bonus is their transfer cases have a thingymajigger for PTO's. Useless for normal trucks, but some tow trucks and such have use for it

That is good info Golden helmet. Thank you. I have the whole donortdonor in the back yard, it is missing the driveshaft though. Do I just swap the rotors from the dually f 350 front with my rotors from my 250? Not trying to make my 250 a dually. Just want that glorious d60 under my 250. Also, being the 250 is 2wd will I have to notch the frame a bit for the leaf spring shackle?

 

[u2slow]

You need SRW D60 hubs, or D50TTB hubs (same part) to 'un-dually' your 60.

 

[david85]

This might not be the full list, but I know some of the special items you want to do the swap correctly are gonna be:

- AND get the entire front yoke off the transfer case. The 250 and 350 share the same transfer cases but their front drive shafts need different yokes, and the 350 one is hard to find because D60 swaps are so common.

Thanks for that. I'm doing a D60 swap as well, but didn't know about the yoke difference. Thankfully the transfer case came out of an F350 donor so hopefully I'm good.

 

[Laine D]

You need SRW D60 hubs, or D50TTB hubs (same part) to 'un-dually' your 60.

does this mean I can use everything from the hubs out from my ttb 50 on a 60?

 

[u2slow]

does this mean I can use everything from the hubs out from my ttb 50 on a 60?

Hubs out... meaning the bearing hub and locking hub, then yes.

 

[Golden Helmet]

That is good info Golden helmet. Thank you. I have the whole donortdonor in the back yard, it is missing the driveshaft though. Do I just swap the rotors from the dually f 350 front with my rotors from my 250? Not trying to make my 250 a dually. Just want that glorious d60 under my 250. Also, being the 250 is 2wd will I have to notch the frame a bit for the leaf spring shackle?

I didn't do the swap on my truck personally, I had a member here do it for me, so my knowledge isn't first hand and may be inaccurate. However, i've been told that the F-250 frames already have all the holes required for a D60 pre-drilled, so no notching should be required. But both my truck and the donor 350 in my swap were 4x4 SRW trucks, I don't think 2WD DRW frames need any special attention but I could be wrong.

Regarding rotors and such, as others have mentioned, the D50 and D60 share the same parts from the spindle out. There's threads out there about converting SRW trucks to DRW, those would be worth looking at so you can compare and go backwards

 

[david85]

However, i've been told that the F-250 frames already have all the holes required for a D60 pre-drilled, so no notching should be required. But both my truck and the donor 350 in my swap were 4x4 SRW trucks, I don't think 2WD DRW frames need any special attention but I could be wrong.

I can say the 2wd F250s have nothing pre-drilled. At least, not on my 1986 frame.

 

[cozinsky]

86 and newer F250 4x4 trucks already have the holes punched in the engine cross member for the track bar bracket so its a simple bolt in swap. When I swapped a 60 into my 84 F250 4x4 I had to drill two of the three holes for the bracket.

 

[CADHOWDY]

I swapped out my TTB D50 front end for a D60 in my 1984 250 and It’s true with what Golden Helmet said and What’s been said about the hubs, spindles and rotors. All swapped over for me. I found the track bar bracket mounted exactly where the passenger side traction beam pivot bracket was. And the 350 springs that came with it are a lot nicer ride. Now I did use my own front drive shaft which mounted up with out any trouble and operates without issue.
Now on a 2WD I figure as long as there is the pocket for the front shackle to mount in from the factory then all there is to do is drilling holes where necessary. Same with the track bar mount.