Cooling System Pressure Test Results

[tbrumm]

Thanks for the suggestion, Russ, I am not familiar with silverseal - I will have to research that. I'm not really sure I would want to add something into the coolant system to stop the leak if I don't have to. I have always heard the heater core (and other stuff) can get plugged up too, depending on the product being used. If it starts leaking worse and I need to do it to get me by until I can pull the heads, I would consider it then. Right now, the leak is an annoyance that will remind me all the time that I need to fix it, but won't stop me from driving the truck at this point. I think I will try Bill's suggestion and see if I can re-torque the driver's side head. I am not surprised by the leak - My '84 made it to 95k and started leaking at rear of the passenger side head, my '88 made it around 120k and started leaking at rear of passenger side head and now my '94 at 104k, but rear of driver's side. I thought maybe the '94 would go longer as the gaskets were better. What is different this time around is when the other trucks leaked, I traded them of because I didn't want to deal with it. This time around, I have more knowledge (mostly thanks to you guys here), and more tools, so I am fixin' it!

 

[79jasper]

Silverseal is great. It's a small tube. Real fine powder.
I wouldn't worry about it clogging the heater core or anything.
Usually napa has it. I think I've maybe seen it at orielly once or twice.

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[typ4]

I bet the hood sill is dripping on the engine back there and rusted the gasket from the outside in, the dually engine sat outside for 4 years and I know this got wet, they are leaking at the front and I have rust in strange spots.
Another
product to use would be irontite in the blue printing bottle
http://www.irontite.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2

 

[OLDBULL8]

Yup, 7.3 head bolts are 1/2"-13.

 

[79jasper]

Correction, I usually see silverseal at bumper to bumper. Don't shop napa much.

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[Kevin 007]

Thanks for the suggestions, Bill. I guess it would be worth a try to re-torque the head bolts. Nothing to lose (unless I were to break a bolt) but trying to loosen them would tell me what I may be in for anyway. I may put that project on my agenda for next weekend. I'll have to pick up a set of valve cover gaskets before I make the attempt.

I know in both Mel's and Tim's write-ups, they had a few of the rear bolts/studs up in the head while the head was being set on, otherwise the bolt/stud was too long to install after the head was on.

EDIT: The head bolts on the 7.3 are 1/2-13 correct?

Yeah I have had luck sealing up small head gasket coolant leaks by re-torqueing the heads. Its been 10 years on some of the engines that I speak of, and the heads still haven't had to come off. Just worth noting

 

[jhenegh]

Towcat recommended to me to try a good block sealer if I had a minor coolant leak too. I ended up with other issues but some reputable guys have had success with them.

Doing heads in truck sounds like no fun. I retorqued mine in truck once. It was tough. Felt like I needed to be an acrobatic gorilla to get in the right position and still be strong enough to hit the torque spec.

 

[Kevin 007]

Worst part is getting the darn pass side valve cover off.

 

[tbrumm]

Worst part is getting the darn pass side valve cover off.

Yeah, I replaced valve cover gaskets this past summer. The Passenger side was tough to get off since it is so tight to the ac plenum. I am more concerned about that rearmost head bolt on the driver's side. That is so close to the firewall I cant see how I will get the torque wrench on there. Once the valve cover is off though, I hope there is enough room.

I may need to be a bit more "open-minded" regarding the block sealer. I have always considered that a "last resort" type of thing and figured it would plug up other stuff like the heater core. I will do more research into the Silverseal and Irontite that Russ suggested.

 

[Kevin 007]

I don't ever recall having any issues on drivers side. And Ive done a few now

 

[tbrumm]

Just a small update: The water pump seal has now started to weep so I went ahead and put a bottle of Irontite into the cooling system. It appears to have stopped the leak at the rear of the driver's side head, but the water pump seal is still weeping. This is unfortunate as the bearing is still nice and tight. I ordered out a new Motorcraft water pump from Amazon, but I am hoping not to have to install it until the weather warms up. So I will eventually need to drain and flush the cooling system anyway for the WP installation, and then I will have to decide whether or not to do HG's. I should do the oil cooler reseal also. I see RockAuto has Victor Reinz head bolts for the IDI - anybody ever use 'em? Since the truck is n/a and I don't really plan to turbo (I love the simplicity and easy access on the engine) studs would seem to be overkill and new bolts may be the way to go. On the other hand, with studs installed I would be ready for turbo if I ever did decide to do it, which seems unlikely. Of course, with more power on tap, the E4OD will then be the weak link in the drivetrain. Oh, the internal debate rages on!

 

[Hydro-idi]

IMO, if your already going to the extent of re-torquing headbolts (which will probably do nada), you meise well take the extra steps and pull the heads off and fix the problem. Yes, it's somewhat of a pain to do this job in cab, but I have done it a few times and it's no big deal. If you are speedy and have the right tools to do the job, it takes about 3 hours to get both sides off. I would highly recommend a cherry picker to remove/install cylinder heads.
If you have the funds to do so, take heads into a machinist & get them rebuilt while they are off.

 

[tbrumm]

you might as well take the extra steps and pull the heads off and fix the problem.I would highly recommend a cherry picker to remove/install cylinder heads. If you have the funds to do so, take heads into a machinist & get them rebuilt while they are off.

Hydro-idi - I would agree. I already have the cherry picker as I recently bought it for pulling the heads. As long as I am replacing the WP anyway and will have the cooling system down, I will go ahead and replace the HG's. What I am really debating is whether or not to do studs or just use new head bolts. I'll have to see how the budget works out. The truck runs great and only has 105k on it now, but when the heads are off I will probably have them inspected just to be sure.

 

[Hydro-idi]

If you are not running a turbo, you could reuse the headbolts if they are in good shape. I would agree that arp head studs is great insurance if you have the extra $.

 

[riotwarrior]

Hydro-idi - I would agree. I already have the cherry picker as I recently bought it for pulling the heads. As long as I am replacing the WP anyway and will have the cooling system down, I will go ahead and replace the HG's. What I am really debating is whether or not to do studs or just use new head bolts. I'll have to see how the budget works out. The truck runs great and only has 105k on it now, but when the heads are off I will probably have them inspected just to be sure.

Do oil cooler whilst heads off.....trust me on this!!!