Cooling Fans....

[Agnem]

Mel i assume you found an adapter of the right size for your coolent lins?

*scratches head

Come again?

 

[subway]

sorry, the adapter to add a coolent sensor to the large radiator lines. i know you were looking for one that was the right size and having trouble finding one.

 

[Agnem]

Ah! Ultimately, I decided to ditch that idea and found one unused port on the drivers side head that I could put a sensor in, and then I decided to replace the factory overtemp switch with a cooler one, and use it to power both the high speed, as well as indicate the overtemp light. I figured the stupid overtemp light is of no value since it doesn't come on until it's time to kiss your heads goodbye anyway, so this way it just indicates that it's hotter than normal, and that the high speed is on and I should watch my water temp gauge. As of yet, I've never seen it light, and I think it is to come on at 210 degrees.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

so this way it just indicates that it's hotter than normal, and that the high speed is on and I should watch my water temp gauge.

Why not also implement an old dis-connected seat-belt buzzer ??

 

[Agnem]

I'm not sure if it doesn't have a buzzer already. If it ever lights up, I'll let you know.

 

[VanBoy]

.... that's the problem w/ most warming lights. Especially when dealing w/ coolant or oil. By the time it goes on, it's too late!

 

[Agnem]

Yup. Having thought about it while doing that project, it occured to me that this really should be a standard mod we all do... that we replace that stupid sensor with one that comes on when its a bit cooler, for more warning, earlier. Who needs a warning light that says "patient is dead".

 

[geonc]

Ah! Ultimately, I decided to ditch that idea and found one unused port on the drivers side head that I could put a sensor in, and then I decided to replace the factory overtemp switch with a cooler one, and use it to power both the high speed, as well as indicate the overtemp light. I figured the stupid overtemp light is of no value since it doesn't come on until it's time to kiss your heads goodbye anyway, so this way it just indicates that it's hotter than normal, and that the high speed is on and I should watch my water temp gauge. As of yet, I've never seen it light, and I think it is to come on at 210 degrees.

Mel, interesting find for sure! Beats adapting resistors/diodes

Need to adapt one of those to energize the low speed side as my PSD has a 203 deg stat and in this heat is usually around 205 normally so in traffic only the low speed would engage and save the high speed stuffs for when I get over 220.

I don't know this as fact, but I believe a GOOD electric fan set-up would easily out-volume the stock fan at any engine RPM the diesel is capable of.

Like already said, an electric fan can blow full-blast at any engine RPM; and the RPM of most electric fan shafts is way higher than the RPM of the diesel engine.

I used to think differently, but lately, electric fans look a lot more appealing.

You can turn them ON or completely OFF; or, with multiple fan set-ups, any or all can be used at will.

Nice to see an open mind
I have shown that exact fact in my updated electric fan thread

Not totally dismissing the fact stock fan and clutch---- but one thing really needs to taken into consideration---ANY belt driven accessory has some small degree of slippage ---- pulley amount and diameter play an important factor!

This was proven to me some years back during a cooling system verificaton test on a stand by engine system we were building......

many of you have seen the 3 and 4 belt fan hubs that are used on heavy equip....we would take the Gates Green Stripe belts and align the printed area so all were aligned...then take a strobe light [ used for rpm verification]
and watch the belts move on the pulleys---quite the lesson for sure!

Some will say just tighten them up---well, now you are adding even more tension to the crank, front seal and other driven pulleys and bearings on the system---the very reason belt tension deflection specifications are given!

 

[Agnem]

That's a good point too George. I can certainly see my water pump bearings lasting a lot longer now, without that big wheel hanging off of them.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Speaking of the multi-belt pulleys/systems, I have had plenty of experience with them on both big trucks, engine-powered equipment, and such electric-motored things as huge planers, saws, and the like.


Although many will argue with me, I stand firm in my statement that ONLY ONE BELT is doing ALL of the work, and the others are only there to make you feel good about their presence.

There is a given tolerance in the manufacture of belts; and, like snowflakes, no two are exactly alike, so whether there are two or twenty belts around a pulley, the shortest belt of the bunch is doing all of the work.

Also, with all of the egg-shaped bolt-holes and slots, slop in bearings and shafts, etc., it is next to impossible to get the pulleys in plane with each other.


We have one big planer that started with THREE big belts.

Almost daily, for no reason we could find, it would derail the belts and chew them up.

One day, with no extra belts left, it chewed up two of them beyond use, but left one un-scathed, except for being upside-down.

In a bind and needing to keep working, I put the one belt back to rights, and, believe it or not, that one same old belt is still on there today, all by itself.

 

[71cc]

that was my original idea. i was going to use the stock fan, stock w/p, and have a adapter machined to bolt to the front of the w/p pulley and to the stock fan, closer to the engine, yet far enough away to clear the belts. i'll keep you posted, i still need to mock up the power steering pump and alternator to see what pulleys i use and the space available.

thanks!
-Jon

take a look at theses adpters/spacers. They might save some work.The thread on adapter at the bottom of the page interest me. Does anyone know if it is the correct thread?

http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/spacers-adapters.html

 

[6.9poweredscout]

hmmmm...i wonder?

-Jon

 

[71cc]

well, unfortunately the thread is 1-1/4 - 16 left hand on the 7.3 water pump(according to Napa's website). So that adapter will not work. One interesting thing i discovered in my search for a smaller diameter fan to fit my original fan shroud is.. a 6.2 chevy fan blade will bolt on the 7.3 clutch! That gets me real close to accomplishing what I needed anyhow.

 

[vegas39]

i am starting to think about electric to now that i have AC, running my ac seems to raise my engine temps almost 10 deg and it cools noticably better when moving. i figure like Mel and Midnight say it can run full blast at any speed i need and it "should" help miliage some.

Mel i assume you found an adapter of the right size for your coolent lins?

I had this same problem, I just added two 10" fans to the front of my radiator last night. a/c now stays cold at stoplights.
I wired a relay to the a/c compressor to turn the fans on.

 

[k_williams1982]

I live in an area that gets hot in the summer, and cold in the winter. I never really run the truck long distances in the hot weather over here, so I had never heard the fan go into "lock-up" and spin "fully". On my trip back from Beaverton, I got onto I-5 and ran at 65 mph (3,100 rpms) for 65 miles straight. That's the first time I have heard my fan go into "lock-up" and I could hear that fan over the radio, engine, turbo, and the road noise of the 35" tires rolling at 65 mph with the windows down. I have no clue how much air the fan was moving, but I could watch the temp gauge drop when it kicked in.