Coolant loss update

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Ok update here,
Man froze my namesake off tonite under the ole gal on the fozen muddy drive,for an hour checking about.

Found wetspot around hose on head to heater core. Tightened down AGAIN! all the other dry.
Found more coolant on inspection cover...fresh.
Found coolant on left engine mount. Oil cooler.. not leaking.
Found wet area arond block heater and corroded tightening nut. Dried up when up to temp.
Water pump..dry.
Left head back lower corner was dry from degreasing when trans was out.
Right head lower bottom had substantial oil goop at head/ block mating surface. Was cleaned also on trans removal 2 months back.
Heater core has been replaced bofore but small corrosion spot lower left corner. Box was dry.. Gonna change this weekend.
Radiator had been recored before. Noted black paint buildup and core looked good and dry.

Gonna still do pressure test but gotta wait till my buddies rad shop is closed over weekend to use the adapter.

Diagnosis? Right head gasket toast?

Can't explain source of left motor mount find.

Took her out for a run to get the kids afterwards, checked same spots again. All dry.
Shut her down and waited 5 minutes and checked again. Found fresh oil/fluid leakage on right back lower head. Hard to tell if there was antifreze present though.
Not looking good eh?

Found a better fix today will cost less for now. The local Diesel shop I have been working with has a 7.3 from a E series van. It has 80,000 miles on it but he said of the wasn't to sure of the condition of the motor (SCA)'s as he bought it as a wreck and was gonna put it in a IH panel truck. He said $800.00 and a couple DMF's and its' mine.
For that price, momma even said that I could spring for a rebuilt ZF to go. .
Just concerned about prior engine use, but for that price, 2 7.3's are better than one?

Ron

 

[jdkline]

Pressure check it and see. Doesn't look great, sounds like the old familiar head gasket leak a lot of us had on the 6.9s but it may be something less serious. Let us know when you have checked the system.

 

[AgoodAmerican]

Maybe a cold water leak. Had a cummins that only leaked when it got below 35 degrees

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

I dropped the pressure tester on her Friday and YIKES!:***:
She was leaking all over the place. Found 3 leaks alone coming from HG failure. Time for the heads to leave the ole boat anchor for a bit.
Got a deal on HG's for $31.00 each. Not bad I thought.

Ron

 

[Agnem]

Cheap head gaskets scare me. Make sure they have the rubber inserts for the water passages.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Mel,

That was my thought also. The HG's are Fel-Pro's.
Got a buddy over at Lane Automotive in Watervliet, MI. They are like Summit Racing. He gave me his discount I think cause I priced the same at Napa and they were $51.00 each. Big diff!
Are Fel-Pro's ok tu use or is there another out there better? Problem is they are already ordered. And does the valley pan tray have to come off also? Or will it be ok? I didn't order one and I don't think it was speced in the HG kit just them and the valve cover gaskets.

Thanks Ron

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Originally posted by Dsl_Dog_Catcher
Mel,

And does the valley pan tray have to come off also? Or will it be ok? I didn't order one and I don't think it was speced in the HG kit just them and the valve cover gaskets.

Thanks Ron

Nevermind, was at the stealership today to get a CDR ordered:***: $52.16.
Got to take a good look at the exploded view of the intake setup and answered that question. Too bad they wanted $92.26 for it.
Went back to my buddy and had him order the VP gasket for me. $43.00

All of the goodies will be in Wednesday. too bad got drill this weekend otherwise workday at the dogcatcher garage.

Ron

 

[jdkline]

Yup, Fel-Pros are supposed to be real nice quality products. Yes they do have the rubber inserts. Be careful when lowering the heads onto the alignment dowels that you don't butcher the gaskets, or you may find yourself doing the job again or either buying new head gaskets and being of the road a few more days than planned. Make sure you have the heads pressure checked an magnafluxed for any type of cracking at a reputable machine shop. Don't let them mill them lower than AERA specs(which I forget at the moment). Also you'll need to chase all your bolt holes with a bottoming tap, but make sure to put some kind of t-handle on it so it doesn't drop in teh coolant passage(don't ask!) and make sure to clean the mating surfaces very well, first scraping all the old carbon and gasket material a/f sludge off and then making at least a couple passes with mineral spirits or acetone to really clean them up. These gaskets go on dry, with no sealer of any type used. Don't get any oil on the mating surfaces, and get the correct torque sequence from a shop manual before you mess with any of the bolts. You'll need to take it apart in proper sequence too to avoid warping and cracking the heads. You probably should clean up the bolt threads as well. Since it is a 7.3, you should probably just go ahead and replace the valves while they are out, especially the exhaust side. Cheap insurance so none will drop in after you've done all this work. Good luck,
J.D.