Coolant flush questions?

rjjp

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My shiny new aluminum radiator came in today, and well I was admiring it, it dawned on me that since I'm changing coolants (gotta protect the aluminum) I need to flush all the old coolant out of my truck.
I'm thinking about flushing it, then moving it into the barn, then installing the new rad after I finish with the other work.

1. Are there any special things I have to do to flush it (because of the oil cooler).
2. After flushing if I remove both block drains is there anyplace in the engine that water could pool and cause me problems (it is currently below freezing in my work space), main thought is the oil cooler here.


P.S. Other work includes Dana 60;Sweet, ZF5, BHAF, new gears in rear axle, some different interior parts, more gauges, possibly some new body panels (and paint of coarse), probably changing my belt system the serp. setup has been ******* me off for about 6 years now so I'm thinking V (the main reason I don't want the radiator in while I'm working on it), stacks (I've lit 3 fields on fire with my exhaust:eek:), and some other miscellaneous BS.
 

RLDSL

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If memory serves me, the oil cooler sits above it's headers so it should drain out.
Don't use an acid based flush, use a soap based flush ( it will have surfactant as the main ingredient, fancy name for soap )

Sounds like that rig is a candidate for stacks if you keep lighting up the fields :eek:
 

rjjp

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Sounds like that rig is a candidate for stacks if you keep lighting up the fields :eek:

Mainly my brothers place, since we just sold my 45, he has 80 acres of undeveloped land and dragging trees up into the dry grass always does it. The crappy part is no running water.
 

gdhillon

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hey when you do your coolant can you do me a favor and take lots of pics for me? lol
 

gdhillon

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Thanks man, I've never done it before....what type of coolant are you using and how much? I'm planning on using the dca4. is it necessary toreplace your thermostat and gasket?
 

hesutton

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If you're worried about freeze water that may be pooled in the system some where, take compressed air and blow it into the block drains, heater hose mounts on the passenger's side head and water pump. Not much should be trapped there, but that will help get out enough water that nothing should be damaged if it where to freeze.

With an aluminum rad, what's the concern with using low silicate ethylene glycol coolant with DCA? Will be getting a Rodney Red soon and want to know if the standard coolant will be an issue.

Heath
 

ford390gashog

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It takes less then 45 mins to R&R these radiators. I don't think the water will freeze that fast or at all. I would not bother removing both block drains either. Flush the engine through each heater hose with the lower radiator hose removed. This will get 98% of the coolant out. You then can get the rest out by putting the garden hose in the lower radiator hose and hold it until the water starts to flow out of the heater hose. A shop vac fits very well in the lower hose and dries it out well.
 

gdhillon

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so your saying you dont even take off the rad drain plug? just the lower rad hose and heater? and then obv undue the heater hose from engine side?
 

ford390gashog

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Why bother taking the rad drain plug out? Taking the lower hose off is better as it allows way more flow.
 

OnDaRoad

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Might want to install a radiator drain ...

Might want to install a 90 degree brass radiator drain ....

I had my radiator cleaned out - forgot to check to see
if my drain plug was put back in - found out it wasn't
when I went to drain my radiator .... :mad:

They installed the cheap @ss plastic threaded plug.

It is a lot easier to drain your radiator with a
90 degree drain than have coolant cleaning off your
I-beam ..... :backoff



Jim
 

Ataylor

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I called Fleetcharge and they said that their products are o.k. to use with aluminum radiators and engine blocks or heads.

Archie
 
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