Coolant Flush Procedure

[RSchanz]

I'm going to flush my coolant and then replace my radiator tomorrow with an aluminum Champion radiator and fleet charge premix 50/50 (pink top). I found these instructions online for the coolant flush:

https://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-coolant-flush.html

The author mentions that the thermostat should be removed. Is this necessary to properly flush the system? If not, I would obviously like to save myself the trouble.

 

[Lonewolf182]

I've never bothered removing one.
I use those kits where you tap into the heater hose. It can take a while if you have a lot of rust. But seems worth it to me.
I do a final drain after the tap water flush, radiator, lower hose and engine drain plug. Button her up, add coolant and top off with distilled water.

 

[RSchanz]

If I weren’t to tap into the heater hose or remove the thermostat would it not drain all the way by simply removing the drain plugs? I plan on running distilled water through the system probably twice.

sorry, first time doing a flush

 

[genscripter]

Install a couple petcocks on the bottom-sides of the engine block, so you can drain the block without making a massive mess on the ground.

https://www.nickpisca.com/diesel/en...nt-plugs-heres-a-1-trick-to-break-them-loose/

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[RSchanz]

This would definitely be a great time to do that. Thanks for the tip

 

[MtnHaul]

FWIW I would stay far from any Dorman branded petcocks. I had three new ones fail immediately after install. Cheap-o pieces of trash!

 

[Exhumis]

FWIW I would stay far from any Dorman branded petcocks. I had three new ones fail immediately after install. Cheap-o pieces of trash!

Stay far away from any Dorman branded products. There. Fixed that for you.

 

[CDX825]

My flush procedure has always been to flush several times with tap water until everything is coming out clean and then do a flush with distilled water. Pull the block drains if you can and refill with new coolant.

Also a good time to change all the hoses while you are at it.

 

[RSchanz]

My flush procedure has always been to flush several times with tap water until everything is coming out clean and then do a flush with distilled water. Pull the block drains if you can and refill with new coolant.

Also a good time to change all the hoses while you are at it.

Thank you! My thermostat seems to work fine, heater works fine so I don't see the point in taking this apart. After you do you initial flush when removing the block drains do you just lock them back up and do the rest of the flushes only out of the radiator? I was thinking I would do the initial flush out of the RAD and block then do like 2-3 flushes with only RAD then on the distilled water flush do RAD and block. I bought petcocks for the block plugs.

Block plugs look like they've never been touched so this should be interesting.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Block plugs look like they've never been touched so this should be interesting.

If you have the brass ones that take a 9/16" wrench or socket, then you'll probably be fine. I've never had one not come out. If you have the ones with the recessed 1/4" square, good luck. First buy yourself some of the brass ones that take the 9/16" tool to remove. 20+ years ago, the recessed ones didn't always come without a drill and an easy out. I can't imagine that they're much easier to remove today.

 

[Farmer Rock]

If you have the brass ones that take a 9/16" wrench or socket, then you'll probably be fine. I've never had one not come out. If you have the ones with the recessed 1/4" square, good luck. First buy yourself some of the brass ones that take the 9/16" tool to remove. 20+ years ago, the recessed ones didn't always come without a drill and an easy out. I can't imagine that they're much easier to remove today.

I will second this.Those 1/4" square plugs are a pain.I somehow managed to get the passenger side plug off on my f250,but the driver side wouldn't budge.If you are flushing it,I wouldn't worry to much about them unless you can easily get them out.

Rock

 

[RSchanz]

I bought two of these petcocks today from Napa. They're meant to replace the current plugs. I'm sort of skeptical of the small holes for draining because I'm sure there will be debris (my RAD is pretty brutal). These are also titled Radiator Drain Petcocks but they're 1/4" NPT so I'm assuming they should be fine on the block. I got 2 ft of hose that I can run from it so I don't have to worry too much about the mess and the starter.

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[Stu Bailey]

The idea of a petcock on the block sounds pretty good to me. I just did a flush for my first time as well last weekend. I have the 9/16" plug on the block and it came out pretty easy. I didn't bother removing the block heater, that thing can be a pain in the **** getting back in with the starter in the way. I flushed mine as you mentioned, pulled the two plugs then flushed with hose water, then threw some coolant cleaner stuff through it, finished it off with plenty of distilled water. I put a little permatex thread sealant on the block plug just because. All in all, it took me probably about 3 hours plus or minus a few beers. Warming the truck up and then letting it cool down with the cleaner was time consuming. Also, just be ready for any air bubbles trapped in the coolant system. You may add 4 gallons as I did and be topped off. I raised my truck up and had a fancy filter on the radiator that let the bubbles burp and then I was good to go. If it's your first time I'd say just be ready for it taking a bit longer than you may have thought. You might also just burn through it super fast and I hope that's the case for you!

 

[RSchanz]

The idea of a petcock on the block sounds pretty good to me.

I read your thread about your flush. I had done some research and found that burping can be a pain but hopefully it goes smooth!

Thanks for the blessings

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I had done some research and found that burping can be a pain but hopefully it goes smooth!

Air bubbles can be a PITA. Just remember that if your thermostat worked before, it will work now too. Sometimes it just takes a little bit longer for it to open with an air bubble in the engine. Your temp gauge may read higher than normal, but keep it running until the thermostat opens.