Advice on proper draining and flush of coolant on a 94 7.3 idi n/a?

[8gitmusik1]

Have a 94 e350 with a radiator leak. Hasnt been started in 4yrs. Had 50/50 coolant in the system before van was parked due to poor health at the time of the noticed slow leak. Have new Champion aluminum radiator and Prestone coolant concentrate and 5 gallons of distilled water. Got 3 Prestone flush bottles and a Prestone flush kit for heater core lines. Cant start engine right now as Im waiting to get money for 2 oem or equivalent batteries. Do you guys have any advice or a step by step process to do the flush with h20 thru a garden hose with 60 psi. How should I proceed to flush heater core lines? I really feel I need to properly do a coolant system flush including draining the block. I already drained the coolant from the petcock but dont really know how to drain and flush the block and heater core and hoses. Any and all advice, input or general feedback on this topic is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance...

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[Cubey]

A good place to start: http://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-coolant-flush.html

 

[8gitmusik1]

A good place to start: http://www.dieselhub.com/maintenance/idi-coolant-flush.html

Thanks Cubey. I did a search. Didnt see this. Ill check it out.

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[8gitmusik1]

Thanks Cubey. I did a search. Didnt see this. Ill check it out.

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I went to the thread you suggested Cubey. Just the info I needed on this coolant R and R topic. Excellent recommendation. THANK You, very much!

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[CDX825]

Don't use prestone coolant. Especially if its all makes all models.

You want low silicate conventional green or an actual diesel rated coolant.

 

[8gitmusik1]

Don't use prestone coolant. Especially if its all makes all models.

You want low silicate conventional green or an actual diesel rated coolant.

I appreciate your response. I already have the 3 gallons of prestone concentrate and an all aluminum radiator. I plan on getting it running and adding an coolant additive to reduce the issues related with the all makes and models coolant concentrate. I was thinking this was going to be ok. Since your post, I may need to read some more on using this coolant. I thought I was on the right track even if not using oem motorcraft diesel approved coolant?

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[CDX825]

The problem with prestone coolant is most of it is a copy of the same formulation used in GM Dexcool. The main culprit in that formulation is 2EHA or 2-Ethylhexanoic acid. 2EHA is not compatible with older seal materials in the cooling system. This is why GM had a lot of issues with lower intake manifold gaskets. The 2EHA in the dexcool was eating them up.


My recommendation would be to get some conventional green low silicate and run SCA or you could get fleetcharge which is the same thing with the sca already in it.

Another option would be Final Charge. It's a bit more expensive but you never have to worry about checking or adding SCA.

 

[jayro88]

The problem with prestone coolant is most of it is a copy of the same formulation used in GM Dexcool. The main culprit in that formulation is 2EHA or 2-Ethylhexanoic acid. 2EHA is not compatible with older seal materials in the cooling system. This is why GM had a lot of issues with lower intake manifold gaskets. The 2EHA in the dexcool was eating them up.


My recommendation would be to get some conventional green low silicate and run SCA or you could get fleetcharge which is the same thing with the sca already in it.

Another option would be Final Charge. It's a bit more expensive but you never have to worry about checking or adding SCA.

This is my recommendation as well. I have found Final Charge at Walmart for a substantially less than anywhere else. They even have it on sale sometimes.

Prior to using Final Charge I used the conventional low silicate green with NapaKool SCA additive.

For draining the block you remove the drain plugs on each side of the block. Once the plugs are out replace them with thread in petcocks so in the future you can just turn the valve to drain the block.

I have never been a fan of using the garden hose to flush the system. If you are going to be getting the batteries fairly soon my recommendation would be to drain everything and refill with distilled water and the Prestone Flush. Then wait until you get the batteries and follow the instructions on the bottle.

Which radiator did you get for your e350? I am going to need to replace the original one on my e250 at some point and was having a little trouble locating a good replacement.

 

[8gitmusik1]

This is my recommendation as well. I have found Final Charge at Walmart for a substantially less than anywhere else. They even have it on sale sometimes.

Prior to using Final Charge I used the conventional low silicate green with NapaKool SCA additive.

For draining the block you remove the drain plugs on each side of the block. Once the plugs are out replace them with thread in petcocks so in the future you can just turn the valve to drain the block.

I have never been a fan of using the garden hose to flush the system. If you are going to be getting the batteries fairly soon my recommendation would be to drain everything and refill with distilled water and the Prestone Flush. Then wait until you get the batteries and follow the instructions on the bottle.

Which radiator did you get for your e350? I am going to need to replace the original one on my e250 at some point and was having a little trouble locating a good replacement.

Hey jayro 88,
Thanks for the input and adding to the Final Flush recommendation. Yes, I agree Wallyworld has the lowest price, which I confirmed last night of $12.88 per galllon of premix 50/50. Regarding the radiator.
I did a lot of searching and researching and finally went with a All Aluminum Champion Cooling Systems f350 replacement. I check the measurements on the core and tanks, i.e. the width, height, depth, and coolant send and return locations and transmission cooler connection diameter and all were either exact size as OEM or were within tolerences I could live by doing very slight mods. And, the price was right for a 3 core instead of oem 2 core. It even came with a new matched radiator cap. Remind me and ill try to locate the exact part number if you need it but really, hou need to measure your cores fin area and then tanks and see if your OEM will be within similar measurement tolerences. Hope this helps.

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[Macrobb]

Personally, I use and recommend the Zerex G-05 or HD ELC coolants. Both are accepting of dissimilar metals(copper, brass, aluminum and iron), prevent cavitation and won't mess with old seals.
They are both 5-year/300K rated, just fill and forget. No additives needed or wanted.

I've had no issues using these coolants.

 

[8gitmusik1]

Personally, I use and recommend the Zerex G-05 or HD ELC coolants. Both are accepting of dissimilar metals(copper, brass, aluminum and iron), prevent cavitation and won't mess with old seals.
They are both 5-year/300K rated, just fill and forget. No additives needed or wanted.

I've had no issues using these coolants.

A good additional option. Thanks for posting this info,

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