Contemplating doing my single fuel tank conversion this weekend.

[Kevo1288]

Aside from removing the tank selector valve and all the extra hose for the dual tank setup, is there anything I can do to my factory sender or pick up tube? Ill be converting the truck to the 38 gallon single tank. I know the give extensions for the pick up and ive seen a few write ups to fix the sender arm. Is there any way I can get rid of the factory shower head if I even have one left lol?

 

[Thewespaul]

I just did this conversion on our 96, you can replace the stock fuel lines, or you can leave it all in place and just run with the rear tank connected. The shower heads you could replace with a Holley bag, but sit down before you look at the prices for those. In most my experience the shower heads outlive the sending units. It’s when people reuse them when they replace a sending unit that they break off.

 

[Kevo1288]

I just did this conversion on our 96, you can replace the stock fuel lines, or you can leave it all in place and just run with the rear tank connected. The shower heads you could replace with a Holley bag, but sit down before you look at the prices for those. In most my experience the shower heads outlive the sending units. It’s when people reuse them when they replace a sending unit that they break off.

So youre saying to just replace the shower heads and I should be fine...

 

[DougsOBS]

I'd replace the shower head, iirc the Motorcraft one wasn't very expensive

 

[Tristan]

It is also common to replace the shower heads with fuel hose.
I did this:

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[Kevo1288]

I'd replace the shower head, iirc the Motorcraft one wasn't very expensive

Just found it and you are right it wasn't at all!

 

[Kevo1288]

It is also common to replace the shower heads with fuel hose.
I did this:

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Hmm that's pretty slick

 

[Kevo1288]

I just did this conversion on our 96, you can replace the stock fuel lines, or you can leave it all in place and just run with the rear tank connected. The shower heads you could replace with a Holley bag, but sit down before you look at the prices for those. In most my experience the shower heads outlive the sending units. It’s when people reuse them when they replace a sending unit that they break off.

I am thinking that I am just going to replace the fuel lines, I haven't looked underneath it. Hate to be a pest but what size line should I grab and roughly how much length? I just want to delete the selector valve and front tank run only the front tank.

 

[Thewespaul]

20 ft of 3/8” or -6 an should get a single cab done. I’d recommend using Parker pushlock with a sleeve over it or vibrant stainless braided fuel line.

 

[Kevo1288]

20 ft of 3/8” or -6 an should get a single cab done. I’d recommend using Parker pushlock with a sleeve over it or vibrant stainless braided fuel line.

I have access to parker push lok down the street but what is the sleeve youre talking about?

 

[Kevo1288]

Also thanks Wes

 

[Thewespaul]

No problem, just use some convoluted tubing to sleeve the hose like you would electrical wiring to help with abrasions

 

[DrCharles]

It is also common to replace the shower heads with fuel hose.
I did this:

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I wish I'd done that... when I got my neglected truck, the tanks were so gunked up (and full of chunks of broken showerheads) that I just replaced them along with new showerheads.

Unfortunately the 1/4-tank problem is still there, actually even worse on the rear tank! And I checked to make sure the showerheads were down near the bottom of the tank. Not having baffles is the biggest problem, I think.

If I have to go in there again (MUCH easier with the bed off, too) then I'll rig up a hose/tee like yours. Or buy a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0DTQPL

 

[Tristan]

I wish I'd done that... when I got my neglected truck, the tanks were so gunked up (and full of chunks of broken showerheads) that I just replaced them along with new showerheads.

Unfortunately the 1/4-tank problem is still there, actually even worse on the rear tank! And I checked to make sure the showerheads were down near the bottom of the tank. Not having baffles is the biggest problem, I think.

If I have to go in there again (MUCH easier with the bed off, too) then I'll rig up a hose/tee like yours. Or buy a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0DTQPL

Those sumps do look like a cool way to go. I thought about it then just went with what I had.
So far the setup has been working well. It will pretty much bring the gauge to empty. Bonus that the gauge actually works down that low.


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[DrCharles]

Do you have air-intrusion problems when going uphill or on curving roads? That's when my problem manifests itself. Since the Ozarks are not flat as a pool table, and there are few straight roads too, it's gotta be fixed again someday