Clutch worn out??

cbarm

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I had my '90 sig. truck inspected today and was asking em to take a look at the clutch. Here is what it does - when sitting idle at a light the tranny is making a growling or kinda grinding sound off and on. Put the clutch in and it feels like its not disengaging all the way as it is hard to get it into gear. Let foot off clutch and it grabs within about 1/2" of letting it off the floor. The mech. got under it and he says that it looks like the pushrod on the slave cylinder is working fine as it moves evenly from the moment I get about an inch down and all the way to the floor. The pedal does not feel spongy at all so I dont think there is any air in there. He looked when the clutch was all the way in and said he could see that the clutch was not completely disengaged. What can I do about this other then trying a new clutch, but will be really pissed if I still have the same problem...
 

Hydro-idi

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I had my '90 sig. truck inspected today and was asking em to take a look at the clutch. Here is what it does - when sitting idle at a light the tranny is making a growling or kinda grinding sound off and on. Put the clutch in and it feels like its not disengaging all the way as it is hard to get it into gear. Let foot off clutch and it grabs within about 1/2" of letting it off the floor. The mech. got under it and he says that it looks like the pushrod on the slave cylinder is working fine as it moves evenly from the moment I get about an inch down and all the way to the floor. The pedal does not feel spongy at all so I dont think there is any air in there. He looked when the clutch was all the way in and said he could see that the clutch was not completely disengaged. What can I do about this other then trying a new clutch, but will be really pissed if I still have the same problem...

Not sure if this will help, but my brother was experiencing the same issues with his 84 toyota pickup (minus the noise you are hearing). He replaced the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder and made sure all the air was bled out of the lines......problem fixed. It was also very cheap. Since I do not have a manual trans truck, I am not very familiar with these setups but it could be as simple as refreshing the clutch components like my bro did.
 

Kevin 007

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First thing to check in those years is a cracked firewall, creating too much flex as the pedal is pushed down thus not making full length of travel for the pushrod into the master cyl.
 

cbarm

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Ohhhhh....the mech. mentioned that. When I push the clutch down the brake pedal moves up a lil...does that mean the firewall is busted? He also said that maybe replacing the clutch master might work. The tranny is out of a '95 like the engine is, but I think they were all the exact same set up wernt they?
 

cbarm

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Yea I was kinda worried thats what it might be...whos the chickie in yer avatar?? Shes HOTTT!
 

Mulochico

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Mine did the same thing when I purchased it. It ended up being the bracket under the dash for the pedal pivots. The clutch side holes had elongated badly. Got one from LMC. Took about 4-6 hours of relaxed wrenching to get changed out and it was like a brand new clutch.

Page 39 of their current catalog. www.LMC.com. Top section #1. Also replaced all 4 bushings #5 as they showed a bit of wear.
 

riotwarrior

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This is a complex problem and your symptoms are common but cover a small group of issues that all attribute to the dreaded bad clutch in a ford.

I'd suggest this article for one, as I give quite a bit of info regarding the different issues.

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...e-to-cracked-Firewall-Here-s-what-to-do-PART1

Also these pics here is another problem where the cross shaft wears out the pedal hanger and this makes the pedals move as you described.

http://s198.beta.photobucket.com/us...83 - 91 Clutch MC Firewall re-inforcement Kit

Also a cracked/broken pedal hanger assembly can be the cause.

So basically it comes down to one or a combination of all of these.
Cracked firewall
Worn actuator arm PIN/pushrod...they wear together
worn bushings/pedal hanger
cracked/broken pedal hanger

All or any of these will make it seem like a clutch is needed.

The HELP section at the parts store, CanadianTire,Lordco etc sells a small plastic bushing kit, see photo, it has trans linkage bushings and 1 clutch pivot pin bushing in it.

Here is NAPA packaged bushing kit for reference
You must be registered for see images attach


I'd start by looking under the dash...wiggle clutch by hand...see if the pin/pushrod is OK, if not for 5 bucks replace that plastic bushing...try clutch...

IT"S a 5 buck part...wont last long if the parts are worn..but it will get ya going...

If it's not the issue...see if the cross shaft is wiggling...if not...

Have someone slowly depress clutch while you watch MC on firewall...look for significant deflection....

That should cover the whole issue on the top end...

Worn clutch fork is also a culprit but not likely...it would flex/break if too worn and mechanic would have noticed.
 

cbarm

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Ohh wow! This is why I LOVE this forum!! That gives me some hope now as to what to start with...THANK YOU!!
 

riotwarrior

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Ohh wow! This is why I LOVE this forum!! That gives me some hope now as to what to start with...THANK YOU!!

Another reason, I tell all new comers to read the TECH articles and the FAQ's so if they have questions, they can search out answers first...LOL

I know I read through this forum 6 years ago lots before I started posting....had almost all my answers before I posted, just some finer details I needed clarified and Mel did that just fine!

Good luck with your search. That part Jason makes is well worth it. It completely eliminated my flex on my fire wall...completely!
 
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