Clutch replacement questions.

[adtman]

Truck - 1993 F250 Factory Turbo 5 spd 4 WD Ex Cab.

I dropped the tranny because my slave cylinders kept failing. I could not even move the slave cylinder forks with a pry bar. It was tight, like it was hung up. I don't think the clutch is too bad, but since I have torn it down I am replacing it with a single mass set up anyway. The throwout bearing looked ok but, it does not move really that well on the input shaft. I slid the new one on and it just doesn't feel right. Maybe that is my in-experience... Either way I am looking for guidance and tips, tricks or whatever you feel is necessary. I am hoping that this is upgrade will stop the failing slave cylinders. It cannot figure out what is causing the slaves to fail. I have been through 10 of them, I know they are not that poorly manufactured. I used the ones from O'reillys, maybe that is my problem.

I have found 4 bad glow plugs as well, I am replacing them. The truck has Motorcraft/Beru plugs and that is what I am going back with. I just can't get the back 2 on the passengers side. The only way I see to do that is to remove the turbo, I have no idea how to remove the turbo. Any help on that would be greatly appreciated. I need to check the back 2 glow plugs and replace with new ones.

The old dual mass

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The new single mass.

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Should I replace my rear main seal? Ford Motorcraft is 73 bux, O'reilly felpro is 24 bux. I have heard plenty of issues regarding non Motorcraft parts. Does this apply to seals and gaskets at well? What do I need to do or get to make the job easier? Tools, tips and or tricks. I have never changed out a rear main on a 7.3 before. Is this something that would be better suited for a qualified professional? Also, should I put Teflon tape on my oil sending unit since I can get to it relatively easily?

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What is up with my transfer case? Is there something missing? It seems ok but I would like to know what this is and if I need to fix it while I have it out.

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Thanks for everything and all the replies. Sorry the post is so large and long.

John

 

[DragRag]

Looks like you could use the rear main seal while you have the trans down.

 

[TWeatherford]

The throwout bearing should slide pretty easily on the shaft. Maybe you have the wrong throwout bearing or a messed up input shaft...

I replaced my rear main seal, can't remember what it was but Felpro sounds familiar. I have heard some horror stories of people having to do it two and three times to get it to seal. When I did mine, I removed the entire plate that is bolted to the back of the engine, which the seal sits in. Tapped a wear ring onto my crankshaft, which came with the new seal, and then tapped the new seal into the metal plate (while still off the truck). Sealed everything with grey RTV as I put the plate back on, and it has been leak free since. I'd suggest also putting sealant between your transmission adapter plate and engine, so that if you have an oil or fuel leak higher on the engine it doesn't get all over your clutch.

Surely you don't have to remove the turbo to do the rear pass glowplugs. I know it is a little bit of a pain, but I bet possible. My Banks turbo isn't really in the way too much, and I haven't looked under your hood. Dunno if you have a factory turbo on your 93 or an aftermarket.

 

[adtman]

Mine is a factory turbo. I am not following what your are saying in regards to the rear main seal. Forgive me for being so ignorant. What backing plate are you referring too? I see cast block. I see the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel bolts up. Do I need to drop the oil pan to do this? Sorry for the ignorance, I only want to do this one time.

Thanks for the replies.

John

 

[icanfixall]

In the second pic of the main seal look at the plate that it rides in. Follow the 7 bolts up and down the back of the block. That is the seal plate. It has 2 more bolts going up thru the bottom flange of the oil pan that needs to be removed for the plate to come out. Most quality seals come with a new wear ring. Usually the crank has a worn groove in it from the old seal so buy one that has the wear ring. I use the teflon type motorcraft double lip main seal. They install dry on the lips... Gees that sounds bad.... Anyway they are easy to install with the plate removed and on a bench. You will need to install the new double lip seal deeper in the plate than the now seal is. Test fit the plate and find out this too. Use plenty of brakeclean on the pan gasket corners and then use a good quality rtv. I use permatex copper plus because it has never leaked. Others like other stuff. The seal body to plate require some sealant too. I use permatex avaiation cement for that. Kinda blackish brown stuff in a small container. There is a gasket behind the seal plate but... You really don't need it. RTV works fine there too. Actually ford never used a oil pan gasket but used only rtv so... If it works there it works on the plate... same oil everywhere. The double lip seal will have directions telling you not to remove the wear ring from the seal.... They state it will ruin the seal.... Nope but... Be careful how you install these two parts and all will be fine......

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

John, the rear main is installed into a plate that olts to the back of the block.
Since you have the DMF off and the rear main is leaking..... replace it. Much easier now than later. The oil pan doesn't have to be removed to do the repair but the oil should be dropped since a full oil level will be right at the top of rear pan seal area that you will be cleaning and resealing.
That mating surface is sealed primarily with RTV. An aircraft sealant or a high grade sealer will be needed.
I've had good results with the black RTV's when resealing in the past.

The shaft that the TOB rides on is the collar over the input shaft and should be greased up for the TOB to ride on. If it has been galled up, the TOB will not slide properly and cause the friction I think you are best describing.

As far as the t-case leak that ya posted I can't recall if that is a pressed in cup that is starting to fail or somebody has been banging ******* the shifter lever banging it into 4x4 an cracked the case since the're a rod behind that location that the shift forks ride on.

 

[Rot Box]

As for the slave cylinders I'm 99% sure your failures are due to the cheap crap that O'really-you-have-to be-kidding-me's supplying you with I would go through two a year in my Toyota until I finally spent the money on an OEM unit. Hasn't gone out since

That said my SMF clutch petal effort is much less than the old DMF and that should help out on wear and tear too. Good luck and replace the seals, I didn't and now I'm paying for it with puddles in the driveway.

 

[adtman]

Man guys, thanks so much for the replies. I understand the rear main seal now, thank you. I am hoping to get on this by Wednesday of next week. You know how it is with work and honey-dos... I am going to get the seal and ring from Ford. New is 73 bux, but if I set up an account under my business I can get it for 58 bux. My business has nothing to do with being a mechanic.... Go figure. I will provide updates as I move along.

rotbox, I am going to check into a slave from ford. I bet you are right. It amazes me how these trucks seem to be so damn picky. I have never in my life bought parts at a dealer for a truck this old until this truck. It is 17 years old.....I would expect it with a new truck. Oh well, she likes what she likes huh. How does the old saying go...."Diamonds are a girls best friend"

John

 

[Diesel JD]

You have to do your homework and know what you need to be picky about and go with dealer parts. Some guys here buy Ford/Motrcraft parts to support American auto manufacturers and/or hopefully encourage Ford to keep supplying us parts. A short list of what probably needs to be factory would be:
1) Thermostat 2) glow plugs 3) Water Pump I used a NAPA rear main seal and it doesn't seem to leak too much if at all. I had a real mechanic install it, didn't seem to be a big deal for him, but maybe we were just lucky. Have you ordered the kevlar pilot bushing to replace the factory pilot bearing? If not you should, even with my gasser T18 and mechanical clutch behind the 6.9 the clutch effort is pretty reasonable. I think you get them from Ft. Wayne Clutch...or is it South Bend Clutch?

 

[f-two-fiddy]

What about this Pilot Bearing?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0588899000&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

[adtman]

Well the clutch brand is "luk". It came as a complete kit. So there is a bearing there. I am going to go back to Lesters Gear, where I purchased it, and ask them if they sell Kevlar bearings. If they do, it would be worth the money to get one. I just did not ask. I am going to check this stuff out. DieselJD, thanks for the input. I really do appreciate it.

John

 

[adtman]

Ok, I am about to load the .50 cal and take the turbo off that way!!!!! I have been trying to get the damn gp out that is underneath it. I have removed the GP controller and the return fuel line. I need some suggestions, or someone to tell me how to remove that damn turbo!!!! I am so frustrated with this damn thing! This is on my 93 F250 Factory Turbo.

Sorry, just really frustrated, I have been playing w/this thing for an hour!

John

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok, I am about to load the .50 cal and take the turbo off that way!!!!! I have been trying to get the damn gp out that is underneath it. I have removed the GP controller and the return fuel line. I need some suggestions, or someone to tell me how to remove that damn turbo!!!! I am so frustrated with this damn thing! This is on my 93 F250 Factory Turbo.

Sorry, just really frustrated, I have been playing w/this thing for an hour!

John

no suggestions to help...just I feel yer pain...having to pull parts of vehicles that have been in auto accidents is no easy feat either...at times, nigh impossible to get em off..without lots of blood sweat and and the happy bar and BFH...happy bar = 5' demolition bar with chisel end...oh ya...baby

Worse part...gotta save what's not wrecked even when it's in the way....

 

[94turboidi]

I have my trans out right now and am going through alot of the same things. I did however drop my flywheel off to have welded and will cut the springs out when I get it back to save some money over buying a whole kit. I ordered some parts from rockauto but trying to decide on the clutch if I should get it from there or oreillys. Its 140 at rockauto if I am looking at the correct one and 200 at Oreillys. The rear seal I ordered is Victor Reinz, hopefully its a good one. I can't wait to drive it after its fixed because I would slam my foot to the floor and barely be able to shift. I looked everywhere for the clutch fork and I found it on napas website for 36 and was going to buy it then when I found rockautos site I got it for 13! Mine isn't shot but has some wear by the release bearing end and some by the pivot.

 

[adtman]

Ok, got the GP's installed! I had 5 that were bad. Luckily that is all O'reillys had in stock! Well ZD9's anyway... I have replaced the rear main seal, that wasn't bad at all considering that plate comes off. Now I am getting read to put the flywheel and cluth on. Is there someone that could tell me the torques specs? I don't need to chince now..

I appreciate the replies.

John