Champion Glow Plugs

[mu2bdriver]

I checked resistance of my glow plugs earlier and verified that they're all Champion CH84 plugs. Resistance was good at 1.3 (meter was 0.4 baseline) for all except one. I've heard about the Autolite problems and was curious about the Champions. I would prefer to just replace the one for now but not at the expense of bigger problems down the road. Thanks in advance.

 

[chris142]

Repjace it with a beru.then more beru's as the champs fail.

 

[icanfixall]

Champion and autolite are known to fail and swell so you can't easily remove them. Please don't let that happen to you. Motorcraft Beru ZD9 is what the 7,3 use and the 6.9 will use the ZD1A plugs. The 7.3 is a bullet type connector and the 6.9 is the spade type connector.

 

[mu2bdriver]

Great...I was thinking I lucked out with the Champions. It looks like I'll be replacing all of them with the ZD9's this week. Piece by piece I'm going to end up with a new truck! Thanks again for the guidance.

 

[FarmerFrank]

I just had to pry 7 autolites out of my heads. broke off 2. WHY would anyone put them in and HOW can they be in business? Junk.

 

[FarmerFrank]

I understand not wanting to replace working parts, but do yourself a favor and take them out as soon as you can.

 

[mu2bdriver]

Yeah, I hear you. Late last night I reserved 9 ZD9s at Advanced and will be picking them up in about 2 hours. If I can't be 100% confident in the truck it's time to sell it. For $65 it's not worth the future headaches that may arise.

 

[mu2bdriver]

Out with the old and in with the new...

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[laserjock]

$65 is a good price. That's cheaper than most places. Glad you didn't have any disasters.

 

[mu2bdriver]

Me too. Was a quick change and gave me the opportunity to vacuum out the gunk that was near everything in top of the engine. I can't tell if it starts any better but the piece of mind is certainly worth it.

 

[Desert Diesel Dog]

You are soooooo lucky.

i only got seven Champions out. one is still in and it won't back out more than 1/4 turn... then locks up. i'm starting to figure that it is actually carboned up on the threads. the first chance i get i will get some Kroil and try again.

luckily this last plug seems to be functional so it's staying for now. BUT... it sure is annoying to have all But one ~~~Motorcraft zd9~~~ plugs in. i might have to wait for the time that the head needs to come off before it is changed.

i'm still looking for the answer... Why will it only back out 1/4 turn... then freeze [Bigtime] ????????? [note... i have been Very Careful not to force it. i already know what could happen]

 

[icanfixall]

Theres really no good reason for the plug to stick to the threads in the head. But carbon buildup because someone didn't make sure the hole was clean of carbon when they replaced that plug. Look closely at the plug. See the part that glows red or white hot that sticks into the precup. Follow that part up to the threaded body. Where that plug enters the body is a shiny taper seat like found in any pipe union. Thats the area of the seal in the heads. The heads have another taper seat also but its a degree or 2 different from the plug taper. That way you know its a tight seal. Same thing found on our valve to seat fits in the heads. Get some Aerokroil and spray it on cold. Then run the engine and spray more on when its hot. Do this every time you start up or shut down the engine no matter no long the engine is shut down. Kroil creeps into the tiny areas between the head and the plug threads. No matter what. Kroil will loosen it.

 

[mu2bdriver]

You are soooooo lucky.

I am. There were two plugs which felt like the hand of God himself torqued them down. I'll never understand that...it's not a wheel lug. Now onto a new starter. With a new 3G charging system, new cables, new GPs, new batteries, the starter is my major weak link. I believe it's original and I've got the Aerokroil if I need it for the bolts. Like icanfixall said, it may take you a while, but it works.

 

[icanfixall]

Starter bolts are easy to remove.. The hidden top bolt can be tuff but. Find the 3/8 drive socket and extension that just fits from the end of the starter to the bolt hex. Please remove the top bolt first. Never allow the starter to hang on the top bolt. It makes that bolt much harder to remove from the engine.. Going back together use some electrical tape on the socket to extension. and slightly tpe the bolt to the socket so it wont fall off the socket when you try to install it. Its best I found to install the bottom bolt and side bolt first. Then the top hidden bolt. Once the top bolt is tight just pull back on the wrench to break loose the tape and it all will come free. No lost socket or extension.

 

[mu2bdriver]

icanfixall - that's for the info! I don't remember which style of starter I have when I looked at it, but I see there are generally two styles: 'Denso/offset' and 'Mitsubishi/inline.' Are both of these compatible with a 1991 F250 IDI? Looking solely at the kw rating, the Denso is advertised at 2.5kw and the Mistubishi at 3.6kw. If I were just looking at the power ratings and didn't know any better I'd go for the more powerful motor. But the bendix areas look so different on the two, I can't visualize how both of them can be compatible. Thanks in advance!