Carrier Bearing Hardware

[jhenegh]

I'm replacing my carrier bearing. Relatively routine task. I had to torch 1 bolt and I was surprised the other came out. So I go to get new hardware this morning and evidently 7/16"-14 U-Nuts are super hard to find! Even online!

Where can these be had? The carrier bearing bolt on the driver side is right next to the fuel tank, so it'd be nice just to slip another one of these U-nuts there rather than dealing with a bolt and separate nut.

Any help or direction would be appreciated!

 

[IDIoit]

ive seen similar hardware in the self help isle of any auto store.
let me check the bucket with all of the F350 hardware i have.

 

[riotwarrior]

IIRC ..i worked a bolt through that spot for mine and used a nut on the bottom. Those speed nuts suck...or make yer own...

JM7/16CW

 

[madpogue]

Those speed nuts suck...

They're like lawyers; you curse them until you need one. Try installing the outboard bolts on the front fuel tank skid plate with regular nuts.

 

[cpdenton]

Check tractor supply?

They have a pretty good selection of stuff like that. I have bought some there before, but not sure if they were the size you are looking for.

 

[jhenegh]

Didn't check there, but Fastenal, Ace, Ford dealer and the local industrial hardware supply didn't have any, nor do any online hardware suppliers.

Pretty sure I'll be doing what Al did. Bolt down through and nut on the bottom

 

[crash-harris]

TSC wouldn't have them, but Lowe's might. I know they have them, just unsure if they have the correct size.

 

[madpogue]

7/16" is BIG for a u-nut. Largest I've seen online is 3/8".

Hmmm, maybe... http://shop.northlandfasteners.com/NP723594-Chrysler-Type-Cage-Nut-7-16-14-Screw-Size-NP723594.htm (just gotta look the other way that it's for a "Mostly Old Parts and Rust" vehicle....)

 

[ironworker40]

Drill it and use 1/2'' hardware and never have to worry about not finding them again.

 

[dunk]

Every truck I've ever had has had a regular nut and bolt. Bolt from top, wedge a wrench in there it holds itself, ratchet on bottom. Gutentight!

 

[junk]

I think I used 3/8" U-nuts from the local parts store. Easier than a nut and bolt.
Ask them to look at their Au-Ve-co parts.

 

[Kheg]

IIRC ..i worked a bolt through that spot for mine and used a nut on the bottom.

^^^That is what I did with mine. I've taken it off twice now I just use a box end wrench to hold the top of the bolts and a run the nuts of with the impact.

 

[MTKirk]

I like to use 1/2" grade eights installed in the top, I welded a piece of flat bar on the tops to keep them from spinning when I tighten the nuts; no wrench needed up top!

 

[jhenegh]

Got it back in yesterday after getting the shaft back. I ended up taking it in to get rebalanced because the shaft was crusty and the balancing weight was coming off, and just had the truck shop put the 3 new Spicer U joints in and the carrier bearing.

Used 7/16" flange head bolts and flange lock nuts. Stuck a wrench in the top and got it done, didn't worry about welding a bar to them, but could've. 1/2" bolts would've fit with very little additional effort, but I already had the 7/16" bought.

I added a 3/8" spacer too since after the swap to a fresh rear spring pack with the overloads and the 4" block (to finally match my Dana 60 front) I was getting an occasional whine and shudder.

SMOOTH now! Glad I got it rebalanced and put that spacer in. Smoothest this truck has ever been going down the highway, and I still need to get my from spring bushings replaced and attack the front steering (cough ( http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...FICIAL-Red-Head-Steering-Box-Group-Buy-Thread ) cough )