genscripter
Full Access Member
If you did all that vac stuff, then unfortunately it kind of narrows it to the VRV. But change out your 1/4 vac hose first just to make sure.
Can't adjust c6 shift points?
- Thread starter Cubey
- Start date
Well it's still working, just not how I'd prefer it to.
Now I need, as a higher priority, the under hood insulation push clips. A couple broke, making it droop, breaking the rest. Uuugh. I have it half way zip tied to help keep it off of the radiator at least.
genscripter
Full Access Member
That's a sign of a worn VRV. Either the cam link is worn, cam is worn, the spring is stretched, the carriage spring is warped, or worse, the diaphragm is starting to fail. All of those would lead to variable vac pressures from the Ford spec, and that would alter the shift points.
It might last another 10,000 miles or 100 miles. Hard to say.
They are easy to change, correct? Just line it up with a cam and tighten it down?
I do have the good one in the truck, so I can steal that one for now, if the hose doesn't fix it. The truck has nothing wrong with it, besides being an oil burner. I just don't want to sell it right now, I have too much in it and who knows, I will probably want it in a few years again knowing me. (Really wish I had just done a slide in. That's why i got a truck to begin with. Oh well.)
In a couple months, when I will probably be in SD for the summer again, I will have a po box there again, perhaps I can get this one fixed or replaced from you, if hose doesn't fix it but the truck's vrv does.
I am tempted to try the truck vrv first, before I buy hose that I might not need. I'm tired of throwing money at this issue.
The brake booster at least did improve braking to a degree, so that wasn't $100 wasted.
I do have the good one in the truck, so I can steal that one for now, if the hose doesn't fix it. The truck has nothing wrong with it, besides being an oil burner. I just don't want to sell it right now, I have too much in it and who knows, I will probably want it in a few years again knowing me. (Really wish I had just done a slide in. That's why i got a truck to begin with. Oh well.)
In a couple months, when I will probably be in SD for the summer again, I will have a po box there again, perhaps I can get this one fixed or replaced from you, if hose doesn't fix it but the truck's vrv does.
I am tempted to try the truck vrv first, before I buy hose that I might not need. I'm tired of throwing money at this issue.
The brake booster at least did improve braking to a degree, so that wasn't $100 wasted.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Well if you take the same route north that you did going south, let me know. I'd like to meet up and check out this camper.
Nah that was a long, round about way. I thought about it but it doesn't make much sense cost wise. For less than the fuel cost, i can pay for a whole month extra at the small SD town rv park with partial rv hookups (w+e). I wouldn't be seeing anything new, I'd be going to the same stops as before and it adds about 700 hundreds miles since i want to make a stop over in southern Minnesota too before i stop in SD.
When I come south again in the fall, then yeah i will probably go that same route i did last fall due to how the seasons go. Plus I won't be making the MN stop on the way back.
I won't remember about it unless you bring it up then in a PM around then though lol.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I may remember that far away. If you post about it, I'll stand a better chance.
I about give up.
I swapped over the known good vrv, changed the hoses to the ones from the truck, tried adjusting the vrv, it still goes to second at about 25-27 depending on exact throttle position.
Bad steel line between the engine and transmission??
All I know is nothing seems to change it.
I swapped over the known good vrv, changed the hoses to the ones from the truck, tried adjusting the vrv, it still goes to second at about 25-27 depending on exact throttle position.
Bad steel line between the engine and transmission??
All I know is nothing seems to change it.
Oh here are some pics. The one on the left is the one from the 85 e350 and the one on the right is from the 87 f250.
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genscripter
Full Access Member
Put a vac gauge on your hub and make sure your vac pump is working well. I installed a cheapo boost/vac gauge on my dash so that I could keep track of my vac pressure as I drive. It's nice to have just in case my vac pump goes out on the road.
Are you sure the top vac hose is connecting to your vacuum system, and the bottom hose is going to out to your trans?
Maybe your line is clogged? Or maybe the line is kinked?
Are you sure the top vac hose is connecting to your vacuum system, and the bottom hose is going to out to your trans?
Maybe your line is clogged? Or maybe the line is kinked?
The vac pump is the one from the truck and it drove fine with it. I bought a new pump for the RV and initially had it installed but then I swapped it to be sure the problem (namely braking at the time) wasn't the fault of pump.
I completely pulled the upper connected hose from the truck and moved it to the RV, it was the same length so I didn't have to do any cutting or extending. It's easy to reach on the truck so yeah.
I pulled off the lower and inspected it, it seems ok so I put it back. I still could try replacing it I guess. It's probably harder to reach the other end on the truck so I will leave it alone. On the RV, just pulling back the doghouse cover gains easy access.
Yes, the hose connections are correct. I noticed the little "trans ->" marker on the vrvs. I wonder if its the rubber piece with the hose barbs that's the problem. I swapped the RVs to the truck's vrv due to the difference in the direction of the hose barbs.
I also tried adjusting the kickdown linkage at the throttle. The screw was and still kind of is in far. I backed it out quite a ways yesterday but no change in shift points.
About the only thing left is the steel line between the vrv end hose and the vr at the transmission. Unless its the rod in the vr. Maybe its just crazy long, so long that adjustments elsewhere cant counteract it.
I can try backing out the vr screw a bit more I guess too.
Unless its an actual problem with the transmission itself, which I guess is possible.
I completely pulled the upper connected hose from the truck and moved it to the RV, it was the same length so I didn't have to do any cutting or extending. It's easy to reach on the truck so yeah.
I pulled off the lower and inspected it, it seems ok so I put it back. I still could try replacing it I guess. It's probably harder to reach the other end on the truck so I will leave it alone. On the RV, just pulling back the doghouse cover gains easy access.
Yes, the hose connections are correct. I noticed the little "trans ->" marker on the vrvs. I wonder if its the rubber piece with the hose barbs that's the problem. I swapped the RVs to the truck's vrv due to the difference in the direction of the hose barbs.
I also tried adjusting the kickdown linkage at the throttle. The screw was and still kind of is in far. I backed it out quite a ways yesterday but no change in shift points.
About the only thing left is the steel line between the vrv end hose and the vr at the transmission. Unless its the rod in the vr. Maybe its just crazy long, so long that adjustments elsewhere cant counteract it.
I can try backing out the vr screw a bit more I guess too.
Unless its an actual problem with the transmission itself, which I guess is possible.
Just a word of advice(been there done that)...
If you start robbing parts off the truck to keep the mh running you may just end up with 2 dead idi's.
Think about that for a while.
If you start robbing parts off the truck to keep the mh running you may just end up with 2 dead idi's.
Think about that for a while.
Nah. I am putting the truck back togther as I go, so it's not just getting stripped.
It has the brand new vac pump on it now (cheap amazon purchase) and I put the RV vrv on it. The nearly 2 year old vac pump I moved to the RV from the truck is an oreilly lifetime warranty one so I can always go get a free replacement for it if need be.
I marked the position on the IP with a pencil before I pulled the VRV off, so it got put on at least 99.9% the same. I started the truck and backed it up about 100ft inside the gate to the back yard, had no problem.
The only other parts I swapped were a rubber hose for the vrv and batteries, because the RV batteries were mimatched junk and the truck had new batteries.
So I'm not actually robbing it of parts, but rather just swapped out easy to do parts, mainly for diagnostic purposes.
Nothing has been totally removed from the truck for the sake of the motorhome except the batteries. It has the junk batteries for cranking if I put a battery charger on them first. I might pull the aftermarket temperature gauge and put back the factory dummy light sensor, but that's not going to make the truck inoperable.
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genscripter
Full Access Member
I deleted my kickdown linkage ages ago. It shouldn't impact shifting unless you are pulling up a hill.
Can you post a picture of this?
Are you talking about the VRV castle nut or what? I'd be very careful adjusting anything on these VRV's, because stretching them too far can lead to breaking the spring, camlink, and diaphragm.
I'm taking about the part that the vacuum connects to at the transmission, the vacuum modulator. I was calling it by the wrong name.
I didn't do anything to the VRV besides swap the rubber part with the hose barbs and do the normal rotation adjustment with it.
Yes, they end up having 2 adjustable vacuum controls on IDIs, the one on the IP and one on the transmission. Makes for a pain to adjust between 2 things far apart.
The one on the transmission was the probably original, non adjustable one. I bought an adjustable one where you pull the vacuum hose off and use a tiny flathead screwdriver to adjust the metal rod that goes into the transmission. I made sure to put it back in so I know that's not the problem.
I guess I need to give it a couple more turns out and see if it does anything. It's just a matter of crawling under, pulling off the hose, making the adjustment then putting the hose back on. If that's not right, all the vacuum in the world won't make it act right.
I've read that there are different rod lengths also. I didn't think to measure it when I had it out. I would have to pull the vacuum modulator to take a picture of the rod.
