Can I upgrade my steering linkage?

Classicfordguy

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So a while back I installed a 6" lift and some 36" bias ply surplus hummer tires eliminating the negative arch springs and helping my highway RPM with the 4.10s. Several months down the road I start getting the occasional death wobble from my driver side front tire. After some investigation I discovered it was probably due to a worn out loose tie rod coupler. Well that fixed it for a while but now its happening again once and a while.

I think I am having so many problems due to the drastic tie rod angle comming from the pitman arm since it is still the stock Y setup. My question is, can I convert to the type of steering linkage I have seen that has one large bar connecting both splindles then one other bar from the pitman arm down to the horizontal one?

Is that the way to go? Will it be OK with the TTB suspension? Where should I find such a setup, can I avoid being ***** by a 4X4 shop?

Hoping to get this fixed before pulling a camper next year, that could get scary.

Thanks,
-Rob
 

hahn_rossman

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If you connect the two steering knuckles with a straight rod you will eliminate their independent movement. Since they still have pivots on their other end and will move if you run over a bump, the pivoting axle will force the other steering knuckle to either steer in or out. It depends on whether the axel is moving up or down.
The short answer is no you can't and get a dropped pitman arm.
 

Ironman03R

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Just wondering, are your spring and shackle bushings in good condition? How about the axle piviot bushings? If those are worn it can cause this too.
 

Classicfordguy

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Yup, put a dropped pitman arm on when I did the lift along with new shackle bushings, axle pivot bushings and the springs are new so new bushings there too.

As the truck sits now, the ttb arms are perfectly parallel, they are not pointed down at all. The steering arms on the other hand are not parellel with the ttb arms, they are in more of a Y shape. This means that as the suspension travels upward the distance between the spindals will be less yet the steering arms will push the spindle much further appart making for drastic tow out.

With a straight bar connecting the spindles I would think it would do this much less not to mention the suspension hardly moves a vertical inch unless I'm hitting some hard bumps off road.

Am I off base or wouldn't I have much less tow in/out fluctuation over bumps with the solid connecting bar?

Here are some pics
http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr224/classicfordguy0/IM004819.jpg
http://i486.photobucket.com/albums/rr224/classicfordguy0/IM004821.jpg

Thanks,
-Rob
 

1989f2507.3idi

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my friends rock crawl ranger ha hiem joint tractor steering all most indestructible also my other friend slid pipe over his steering. also u can get psc full hydro steer
 

82F100SWB

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This is about the best off the shelf upgrade for the TTB steering:
http://www.superlift.com/accessories/superunner.asp
Pre-runners and the like often run a steering system that is best referred to as swing set steering, and it moves the steering's pivot points so that the linkage pivots at the same point as the i-beams and follows it's travel exactly, but, it tends to be far more complicated(bellcranks and all kinds of fun stuff) than what I'd want on a daily driver.
 

MUDKICKR

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what about your caster? on the 03 and up ford f250s/f350s some are having death wobble as well and it wont stop till they are slowed down to about 30 mph. i have seen several come into the shop and have that problem and we have to adjust the caster all the way and it fixes them. its just a suggestion. also if you go under
http://www.jcroffroad.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=S6
i have this steering kit on my jeep(kept bending the factory stuff) i know its for a jeep but maybe you can apply it to your trk as well. the part numbers on the website are for TRW parts. all you would have to do is find out how long you would need the tubing and then thread it for the tie rod ends. hope this helps
 

Classicfordguy

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That ttb upgrade looks expensive though it does look like the best way to fix it. Mudkicker, that setup you linked to is pretty much what I am looking for, any idea if there was a ford truck that came witht that style setup? If so I may be able to buy the individual replacement parts for it from the local auto parts store then use my parts that are still good like tie rod ends and such.

I have a lifetime alignment but I don't know if they ever adjust the caster. Should I have them look at it?

-Rob
 

MUDKICKR

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yes, make sure the caster in within spec. if not it will give you problems. also yes ford did have a setup like that, only catch is you have to go to a parts store and look through there books to find it.
 

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