Can I tap the threads of the water pump bolt holes?

[Ataylor]

Hello,

I have the water pump off for replacement. Is it just the top two bolt holes that go into the injection pump gear housing or are there others that are not dead end holes?

I would like to run a tap into the holes to clean them up and then blow them out, but don't want to blow a bunch of dirt into the engine.

Also, I bought a waterpump from the International dealer in Sacramento on Friday. It has been sitting on their shelves for years. When the parts guy opened the box the top or outside of the pump had light rust, but the inside of the pump is clean. It rotates smoothly. The sticker on the box says Fleetrite and it was made in China. It was $20 less than the Motorcraft from Ford.

Would anyone be scared of this pump because it had sat so long. I'm just worried about the seal?

Last question- The plate behind the pump has a couple spots of cavitation. They don't llook that deep and that plate is pretty thick. Should I just leave it alone since it doesn't look that deep or should I mix up some JB weld and do a bondo job on the little crators?

Thanks for any input anyone has,

Archie Taylor

 

[icanfixall]

What I'm seeing in the pics is a water pump that was shot and someone ran it so long the impeller rubbed the plate. Yes... You could spackle some JB Weld on that if it makes you feel better. To answer the question about the bolts that go thru the plate into the gear area.. You have 4 of them and behind the plate is a thin nut thats spot welded to the plate. The top two and bottom two are the go thru bolts. Why do you want to tap them out??? While your this far into the job it would be a good idea to run a 5/16 drill bit thru the tall skinny timing tab port. Then wash it out with brake cleaner. You will never have easier access to it than now.. And one more question... Whats the blue fitting at the lower portion of the drivers side head. I'm thinking oil return to the engine but from what??

 

[typ4]

there is no damage that is critical in the gasket sealing area that needs to be filled.

 

[Ataylor]

Thanks for your responses. I wanted to tap the holes out just to get clean threads for when I set the new pump on and torque the bolts.

The blue fitting on the head was where I was going to return oil from the bypass filter, but it doesn't look like it is going to work with the A/C bracket. I was thinking I could grind the bracket to fit around the fitting, but it the amount needed will weaken the bracket too much. I think I'm going to have to return to the valve cover.

I would like to just return to the oil fill cap, but I'm running a RDT and think that much of the oil would be blown out.

What do you think about a water pump that has been sitting that long? Would you use it?

Thanks,
Archie

 

[icanfixall]

Nothing wrong with the water pump. I would use it. Now about the oil filter bypass going back to the front of the head. You have that same fitting location on both heads in the front and the backs. So you have actually 4 places if you can reach behind the heads...

 

[hesutton]

Unless the threads are boogered up, I wouldn't tap them. Any debrit will get into the engine unless the front cover is removed first. Silicone the four bolts than go into the oil galley. Torque is only 14 ft/lbs on the water pump bolts.

Heath

 

[Ataylor]

Icanfixall,

I tried to get to the two places on the back of the heads, but can't fit tools to take out the plugs. If I did get them out, I don't think a -4 90 will fit there and give enough room for the engine to move without the fitting hitting the firewall.

Archie