c6 drain the converter too??? n modulator ??

[Wanderer-rrorc]

or just drain the pan and be done??

and my c6 shifts really soft to 2nd,,alot of times it doesnt seem to shift into first at stoplights....modulator need adjusted?? which way??

 

[franklin2]

If you want to change all the fluid, drain the torque convertor, it will take about 13 quarts. If you think your fluid is contaminated, this is the way to go.

On these trucks you can adjust the modulator, but you can also adjust the the vacuum piece on the throttle at the injector pump.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

adjusting the modulator will move the shift points up or down in engine speed, it also does affect shift firmness (as a result of the line pressure) but not much. I'm thinking you need a full ATF change, plus maybe a shift kit in the valve body?

 

[Black dawg]

adjust the external band adjustment, it will help second gear out.

 

[funnyman06]

My second gear shift has always been very smooth and almost unnoticeable. I swapped out the fluid and it got softer. And i used Type F

 

[DragRag]

You can also change the trans servo on the side of it, that really helps to. Not sure which one you need for your application, but on the 70' Cobra Jet C6 they use an R servo, that is the most aggressive.

 

[87crewdually]

You can also change the trans servo on the side of it, that really helps to. Not sure which one you need for your application, but on the 70' Cobra Jet C6 they use an R servo, that is the most aggressive.

That's what I used with my build. I have no complaints. I got all my performance parts here: http://www.transmissioncenter.net/C4_C6.htm

Take alook also at their Diesel shift kit for the valve body. It really improved positive shifts.

 

[franklin2]

My second gear shift has always been very smooth and almost unnoticeable. I swapped out the fluid and it got softer. And i used Type F

Is type F supposed to make it shift firmer? It's supposed to have Dexron in it.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

IIRC type F is "thicker" which could theoretically help out in a worn out trans, but it will also fill up the accumulators slower making for softer shifts... Or something like that, I personally always ran Dex/Merc-III in my old C6.

 

[trackspeeder]

Is type F supposed to make it shift firmer? It's supposed to have Dexron in it.

Dexron is the GM equivalent to Fords type F. Type F doesn't have the additives like Mercon. So type F will make the shifts a little more firm.

 

[franklin2]

Dexron is the GM equivalent to Fords type F. Type F doesn't have the additives like Mercon. So type F will make the shifts a little more firm.

I am going to have to disagree on that one, or it just may be a wording error. Dexron has always been different than type F in all the literature and car manuals I have used.

Since the new oils are called "Dexron/Mercon" I am assuming that Dexron and Mercon are the same fluid, while type F still stands by itself as a different oil. Then you have the Chrysler ATF4 which is another different oil.

I don't know exactly what is different about each of the 3 types of oils I listed above, it may be weight, it probably is some additives, but whatever it is they are different families of oils for different applications.

Most all the all Fords did use type F from the 70's down, and probably the older c6's did use type F. The newer ones do call for Dexron/Mercon, but I don't know if there is a difference in the later trannies.

 

[DragRag]

You are right, the older C6's called for type F, and that is what I always used in mine.

 

[Jake S.]

If the rpms are ok when it shifts, then the vacuum part of the system is prolly ok. On the drivers side of the ip is the vacuum blah blah(forgot the name). This mainly controls the upshift rpms. It varies the vacuum goes to the modulator. So before adjusting the mod., go for this first. On the pass. side of the ip is the manual kickdown rod. This adjusts how much throttle it takes to downshift when you step on it. Also on the side of the trans. by the neutral safety switch is the band adjustment. If it gets out of adjustment, it will take longer and have softer 2nd gear shifts. So I would drain all the fluid I could, including the converter, then check the band adjustment.

 

[87crewdually]

The differences are friction modifiers. Pending on the tranny age or if it was rebuilt is how I choose. Rebuilt gets the latest version of mercon. Old 70's down I'd go for the type F. Chrystler is all to it's own with the Plus 3 or Plus 4.

 

[Wanderer-rrorc]

go it done!!

first off..whoever owned the van before me...thankyou!!

fluid was thin but unburnt and no rtv on the gaskets..

second...

if your gonna weld on a drainplug..make SURE you have enough weldwire to get it done... (glad the shop is around the corner at 9pm!!)

3rd...

the torque converter has an 7/16 6point plug...not a 1/2 13mm or 12mm...its also not a square 3/8 plug...

oh..and it holds over a gallon of fluid...


runnin better...still shifts into 3rd at 15mph...gotta get that fixed...