Buying 85 IDI ATS turbo motorhome!

Cubey

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FWIW, if a pad was smoking, it's junk imo. You can sand it all you want but it will eventually glaze and start squeaking again. Also, heat can cause the caliper to become trash too.
Yeah that could be. Looking back, the first pads I put on were Bendix Fleet Metlok MKD120FM. Those are the ones I changed but kept when I did the rotors. The ones I put on are Bendex also and look the same but are SBM120, which rockauto shows currently as economy.

At least the calipers are lifetime warranty, but that'll have to wait.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Just to add:
Make sure your rear brakes are in good order and engaging properly. If not, the fronts end up doing more work than they should and it overloads them. The rears actually do a great job when working properly. Your C&C shoes are 3.5" wide IIRC and so brake harder than in a pickup.

I hate the way Ford designed these braking systems... the front is dependent on the rear engaging first then the front can do its thing. So loose shoes = terrible braking. I always thought it would make a ton more sense to have two closed and independent systems since there are two pistons in the master cylinder but who am I?

I was really underwhelmed with my brakes all around and at one point upgraded to slotted rotors and a better pad brand that got really good ratings in independent testing for stopping power. I can't find what brand they were but they had better reviews than StopTech so I went with them. Pretty happy since then. But the biggest change was when I got my rears snugged up to where the parking brake was working quite well and therefore the whole system engaged like it should.
 

Cubey

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I did rear shoes in late 2020 with a new drum on one side and all new hardware. I wanted severe duty ones but the only kind you can get, and the ones, I got, were made defective but I didn't know until way past return time, so I had to get cheap budget ones in a hurry from O'Rellly. I couldn't put it off anymore at that point and parts were hard to get in a timely manner.

If the rear isn't working right, it will lurch forward and it isn't doing that. When I put those defective shoes on, it did lurch forward and braking was horrific even on flat roads, so the cheap O'Reilly ones must still be working for now.

Basically, I was just going too fast for the grade for this RV, more than anything else. That and the cheap pads probably just couldn't hold up since they do most of the work.
 

Cubey

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I guess this is a good place to post the link to my old blog that I should start using again, I guess. Maybe I should add it to my sig too. https://cubey7800.blogspot.com

I just did a post on it, but it's nothing you guys don't already know (the trans & wreck). It was to catch up anyone who might be subbed to the blog and who might actually care to know the most recent events, summed up.

The only other part I posted about, is where I'm gonna head to a cheap nice little RV park in Utah for the next 2 months, until Arizona cools down. I'll stil have a few weeks to kill until October, but there's good free places along the way I can use. Unless I decide to stay a 3rd month at the RV park, but I doubt I will.

The owner doesn't mind old RVs, as long as they are fully self contained, meaning has a fully working bathroom inside. The owner specifically told me that he doesn't allow monthly renters to use the bathrooms. I guess he doesn't want to spend that much time scrubbing toilets, since he charges so little rent, which I understand. I stopped there one night last year, and the owner is very hands-off. It's all self-serve. You go get an envelope, fill out a form, put cash or check in it, and push it through a very hack job slot in the solid wood door. No office hours at all. But you can reach the guy by phone, so it's not like you can't ever talk to anyone though. I'm about 770 miles away from there right now, so I called to check if they have open spots, since he tends to not check his email very often (or at all?), and he said there will be plenty of open spots next week. Maybe it fills up on the weekends? Wouldn't surprise me if it does, given where it is.

I was honest and said how I was there 1 night last year, how I just had the trans done, then it slipped out of P and had a wreck, but that the grey tank has already been replaced so it's fully self contained again, and how I just need a couple months to decompress and relax. And he's all fine and dandy with that. So, yeah.

Only sucky thing is I tend to only drive about 200-250 miles a day max, and it's gonna be HOT (95-102) for about 600 miles of the 770 distance. At least there's not much in the way of mountains, so all operating temperatures should be manageable, even with the AC on, at least most of the time. The area where the RV park itself is only gets up around 90-92, not so bad. It's only about 3 miles to town for groceries, a post office, etc, so it won't cost much to go to town a few times a month to get groceries or whatever. Diesel is pretty cheap there too (as diesel prices go out west, anyway) so not bad at all.

First thing after I leave here, I'm gonna stop off in La Grande, Oregon (much less hot than Boise) and get a "free rental" AC gauge set from O'Reilly and check the pressures on both side, and top it off, if needed. I'm sure it probably needs a 12oz can or two again, since it's been a year and probably has a slow leak. I don't use the 'stop leak' stuff, just the cheapest cans of R134a I can get my hands on. It took 4 cans of last year ($6/can from Wamart then, $9/can now) but it was completely empty basically. I don't wanna be driving in 95 degree heat for several days without any dash AC, so the cost of some cans of refrigerant are worth it, IMO. It doesn't do a ton of cooling for the size of the rig, but it does help for sure vs having the windows down and a 12v fan blowing on my face. I'll probably fill up the gas tank for the big generator too, so I can run the roof AC in the evenings for a few hours to get rid of the heat before bedtime. Still cheaper than 3 nights of nightly rate RV parks.
 

Cubey

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Ugh. The O'Reilly's didn't have the hose set. Pulled out my old low side only gauge and the outer hose started cracking and breaking away. Didn't want to risk using it with only the thinner inner hose.

Ended up blowing $28 on one of these, because the cheap hose included with cans these days are too short to reach the low port on this thing. The 2ft hose on this worked great. It's blowing reasonably cool now.


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It was basically empty again. I put in two 12oz cans and got it to about 30. Should be around 45 supposedly. Went back in and bought two more cans and put in one, stayed around 30-35ish so I stopped in case the gauge is wrong. I will see what it shows tomorrow and maybe add the 4th can.

Oh and I had to evict the most adorable infestation this morning. I left a day early to be sure they wouldn't come back. They were nesting with the loose crappy factory fiberglass insulation for the engine bay, and I didn't see any chewed wires, so at least they didn't do any damage.

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Cubey

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Good grief, everything is going to hell lately.

The single 2 inch pipe entering the new grey tank is leaking a lot suddenly. Not sure what the problem is yet, considering it was FINE for a three weeks. As soon as I get to the RV park, it begins leaking. LEaking tanks is a big no-no. At least I can use my black tank for the toilet and bathroom sink, until I can get that fixed. I just can't shower, but I have such short hair, I can wash my hair at the bathroom sink thanks to it's swan neck tap. Not ideal, but if it gets me by a week, I can deal with that.

It might just need a hose clamp around the grommet. I thought it needed one, but info online said it doesn't. Well, it was fine until today, so I guess it needs one now. I'll probably have to just drop the tank entirely to be sure something didn't crack or otherwise get damaged. What a pain. And for about a week there's changes of rain/storms. It's gusty windy with short bursts of sprinkles right now.

The old tank with the same type of grommet didn't have a clamp, so I dunno what the deal is now. I suppose if I have to temporarily pull the tank and plumb it directly out without the tank, so be it. I can't imagine the tank itself is the problem though. I lowered it a bit on the hangers in the rear by the pipe inlet, and I could feel water around it, so that is definitely where it's leaking. I'm guessing the pipe is overwhelmed and leaks out around the grommet, so it needs a clamp to keep it contained. Weird how it was fine until today. I was even watching for drips and never saw any until now, and it's leaking heavily.

But also the pressure relief vale on the water heater suddenly decided to start leaking way worse than it has been. I admit, that was something I have put off too long, but yeah now it's questionable to use the water heater until I replace that. At least that's only a $16 part, and the local Ace hardware 2.5 miles away has one it says.

I might just drive to town in the RV in a couple days so I can stop at Ace and pick up what I need, and also go get a PO Box opened so I can be sure I can get stuff delivered that I can't get locally.

Makes me think I might have to reconsider this RV much longer. Although by the time I fix the newest issues, it should be good again for a long time. And these problems will cost about $25 to fix, so it's not exactly expensive, just annoying.

Edit: actually the ace doesn't have the 1/2" thread pressure relief valve so I'll have to get that online. hohum.
 
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Danielle

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Thanks for posting your blog! It will be fun to follow you around! The kids want to do an all summer road trip and see something different than new England and the Carolinas haha. Maybe I can just have them live vicariously through this
I guess this is a good place to post the link to my old blog that I should start using again, I guess. Maybe I should add it to my sig too. https://cubey7800.blogspot.com
 

Cubey

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Thanks for posting your blog! It will be fun to follow you around! The kids want to do an all summer road trip and see something different than new England and the Carolinas haha. Maybe I can just have them live vicariously through this

Not much to post on it right now, unless I just mirror my complaining about stuff that keeps needing fixed. RVing isn't all fun. It's like a house but more prone to needing repairs constantly. LOL
 

StephenZ

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It needs a new RV door as a priority. It's an eyesore as it is. It was rotten and fell apart but he didn't butcher the RV to fix it. He just attached thick plywood to the door itself's frame.

There is a guy in the region who parts out junk RVs, so I should be able to get one for $100-150, outer frame and all. I just need to measure and email him to see if he has one to fit. It won't match color and stripes wise but who cares? I see RVs like that all the time.

I could paint it white if nothing else until I get a new door. At least it wouldn't stand out as badly then.

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You could buy Tin, use the plywood as intended, put the tin over the plywood going horizontally just like the rest of the camper shell and paint the whole camper shell one specific color.
 

Cubey

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I finally got around to replacing the front bushings for the sway bar after putting it off for at least two years. They were probably the originals, having a Motorcraft part numbers. Considering their age, they were holding up pretty well, only minor cracking. Has new Moog ones from RockAuto.

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Cubey

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Oh and to update about the tank leak.... the pipe wasn't inserting like it should. The pipe somehow jumped out and pressed down the edge of the grommet. It's definitely in now.

I had to rig it up by making the pipe longer, putting a scrap piece of 2x4 between the tank and the underbelly of the RV and just letting that end of the tank hang lower, due to the longer pipe being coupled on and preventing the tank from sitting flush against the underbelly now. But end is toward the rear axle so it won't hurt anything to hang down 2 inches lower than normal.

The wood is pretty well wedged in place but I might put some angle braces to make sure it stays put. That's so if the tank tries to bounce, it won't put pressure on the pipe that's extending down a couple inches due to the 2" coupler that got glued on to extend the 2" pipe about 3-4 inches so it would fit into the grommet tightly and stay put.

Yeah it's very much rigged up but that was the fastest and easiest way to fix it.


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Cubey

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I finally got the bumper pulled out from the wreck. A guy with a truck down here used a chain I had. Pulled it a hair too much but it's better than it was. The big gap is partly due to the fiberglass naturally wanting to push in still (not yet fixed) and partly due to the bumper being pulled out a hair too much. I tried whacking it with a small sledge hammer, but it's too small to do the job. Oh well. At least I can try to patch up the fiberglass now, and put in the replacement hose holder I bought. I'm gonna have to put some 2x4 and screws through the fibgerlass to reinforce it at the cracks some, to give it some structure/stabilty.

The other end of the bumper is pulled WAY out but that's because I caught it on a small tree (after the wreck) so compared to that side, it's pretty even.

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Cubey

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Fwiw
Tie the truck, chain, bumper together....
Take up the slack with the truck, then lock the parking brake.
Go stand on chain and GENTLY bounce your weight on it a little at a time till bumper says UNCLE

This thing took a good bit of force to move, so I'm not sure that would have worked
 

Clb

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Ok, then you tension it up first, it can / has been done.
Carry on.
 

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