Building turbo IDI

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
My dyno day is coming. I'm making a video of the work I planned on doing first... Pop test ans match all injectors.. Compression test... timing ans installing the pump... Something for everybody in one video....
 

prerunnin

Registered User
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
victorville
I've been in NMB2's truck and it is a beast. I really hope you do have the skills to fabricate your manifolds and run the HX35 Cummins turbo, I can' wait to see somebody try it, but it would be a real challenge if you could not make your own stuff like that. If you do a nice job of it, others here might be interested in sending you some more projects and you could make a little cash. Head gaskets seem to be the major failure point, the ARP studs installed correctly along with a set of updated head gaskets usually keeps this problem at bay. RLDSL suggests that you use Hylomar spray to coat Victor-Reinz head gaskets. The thing NMB2 has done much differently than others to hold his 20+ psiG boost is to overtorque those ARP studs. I think most here only run 85-95 ft-lbs of torque on them as the instructions suggest. If you overtorque anything, be really sure you can trust your torque wrench. I wouldn't mess around with any special head gaskets as the spray and studs usually makes the head gasket issue much less of a problem. I really think with the knowledge of the collective there are some IDIs on this board that are very much more powerful than stock. For instance I'd really like to see Icanfixall's truck with Moose Pump and NMB2's truck with the DPS Pump and other mods on the dyno.

I think i can get some headgasket coating from my work (general atomics) as far as the manifolds go, i am do alot of offroad fabwork so shouldn't be toooo difficult.


one of my first lower arms over 3 years ago
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...1565360587176_1630248039_1336763_849854_n.jpg

more recent work
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...586650759417_1630248039_1373642_5148172_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...662928946324_1630248039_1525217_1223691_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...662925906248_1630248039_1525212_3521493_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...666385112726_1630248039_1530997_8129050_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...481335286596_1630248039_1169409_5782474_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...617892020429_1630248039_1431245_1317216_n.jpg

my most recent bumper made
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...1481335166593_1630248039_1169406_871207_n.jpg


i think a set of manifolds wont be TOO hard :sly

Anyways tonight I prepped the van to pull the motor, fired the van up one last time just to drive it a little and check the heath of the 180k 7.3 in it, and damn does it run good almost a shame that I'm gonna blow it :D
 

88 Ford

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2008
Posts
1,784
Reaction score
6
Location
San Diego, CA
What are you dropping the 7.3 into? And I also think that with studs and the necessary air and fuel mods that a 7.3 can make lots of power. Idk though we will only know by testing. Lol
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
I think i can get some headgasket coating from my work (general atomics) as far as the manifolds go, i am do alot of offroad fabwork so shouldn't be toooo difficult.


one of my first lower arms over 3 years ago
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...1565360587176_1630248039_1336763_849854_n.jpg

more recent work
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...586650759417_1630248039_1373642_5148172_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...662928946324_1630248039_1525217_1223691_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...662925906248_1630248039_1525212_3521493_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...666385112726_1630248039_1530997_8129050_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...481335286596_1630248039_1169409_5782474_n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...617892020429_1630248039_1431245_1317216_n.jpg

my most recent bumper made
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos...1481335166593_1630248039_1169406_871207_n.jpg


i think a set of manifolds wont be TOO hard :sly

Anyways tonight I prepped the van to pull the motor, fired the van up one last time just to drive it a little and check the heath of the 180k 7.3 in it, and damn does it run good almost a shame that I'm gonna blow it :D

Looks like you have EXCELLENT welding and fab skills, but if you build your own manifolds and cast parts for a non stock turbo, you'll be one of the first...I double dog dare you..... do it!:thumbsup:
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
if I ever move somewhere that has a dyno, I'll do it.

We should see if somewhere in Gainesville or Jax has one and put both our trucks on next time you come out this way...maybe, I do understand anyone's hesitation to dyno while on the road, IDI rally or not.
 

88 Ford

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 22, 2008
Posts
1,784
Reaction score
6
Location
San Diego, CA
Ya I wonder how it would perform with a turbo that would flow like that?it would be awesome!!!
 

prerunnin

Registered User
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
victorville
You must be registered for see images attach


moved the van to my buddies shop today, were still debating on running the motor out of the van as is, or tearing it down for new head gasket and studding the heads. What do you guys think?

We didn't get around to pulling the motor/trans/axle yet but tommorow were gonna pull it all(hopefully) and send the shell off to scrapper
 

Diesel JD

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Posts
6,148
Reaction score
7
Location
Gainesville, FL
Compression check, check the cooling system for bad leaks (cavitation) as best you can. You know you want to use a non stock turbo and run high boost so even if the compression check is good (all 350+ and within 25%) get the new head gaskets, ARP studs, and hylomar or equivalent on the intake and head gaskets. If the pistons look ok they probably are, a little surface nicking from dust or autolite glow plugs wouldn't scare me, bad blowby or cavitation would indicate a major overhaul. Just my opinion.
 

prerunnin

Registered User
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
victorville
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


Donor met sawzall today!
 

prerunnin

Registered User
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
victorville
You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach


Donor met sawzall today!
 

BrandonMag

Dana 50 rebuilder
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2009
Posts
1,185
Reaction score
99
Location
Oregon east
Cool project. You've got some great fabrication skills. ;Sweet
I'll keep my eyes on this thread.
 

prerunnin

Registered User
Joined
Nov 26, 2010
Posts
27
Reaction score
0
Location
victorville
well. after all day off trying to save the windshield and pull this thing out i ended up breaking the windshield and breaking the top half of the injection gear cover where the oil cap is.
econolines are a pain in the ass, we got the transmission out and the motor half way out, transmission is gonna get a rebuild for sure.
 

Goofyexponent

Mentally Unstable..
Joined
Jan 7, 2009
Posts
4,567
Reaction score
4
Location
Halifax / Nova Scotia
If you want my opinion, here goes.

I would get a hold of that engine and all turbo gear (luckily I think I got a COMPLETE factory IDI turbo engine and ALL turbo gear coming, find out tomorrow)

I would pull the heads and have them checked for cracks and any valve work.

Throw away the head bolts and order a set of ARP studs (you won't find a KIT for the IDI, but you can find the part numbers for the studs, nuts and washers using the search function). I would leave the compression ratio alone for a daily driver, but if you are just going to be running this for fun, shave the pistons down some. This will lower the comression ratio. I am leaving my compression ratio alone.

While the engine is out, I would rebuild the oil cooler, front and rear main seals, oil pan and seal, water pump and gasket, paint everything grey (or any color you want) and re assemble.

This way, once that engine is in between the frame rails, it's in there for good!

I plan on a COMPLETE refresh when/if I get my hands on this engine. New gaskets EVERYWHERES, new IP, injectors, lift pump (electric? maybe) and a few other odds and ends.

Boost set at 15 PSI with a boost and pyrometer gauge. I already have aftermarker mechanical oil pressure, water temperature and volt meter on my a pillar.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,344
Posts
1,130,706
Members
24,143
Latest member
Cv axle

Members online

Top