Brown Truck Under the Knife Project - Engine

6 Nebraska IDIs

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UPS said they'd give me $100 for the entire package's contents and will take everything when they do so. F#%@ THAT! I spent far too much time and effort trying to find one of these to give it away for less than half what I paid for it!

Here's the pics of it.
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I'm trying to decide if i want to try that or just leave it as is and live with it.
I gotta say, I'm GOOD. This thing fits perfectly around the early style or non AC radiator. I mean it fits like it was made to have that radiator slide in between the outlets. I should have taken a pic of it.
I was afraid that the radiator wouldn't fit in there with it bent/twisted so much but it does so I may just leave it.
 

david85

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If it were me, I would try and bend it back. But I work with aluminum for a living and have all the tools needed to correct any crack that might happen.

Having said that, you have a very mild bend there and unless they use some super brittle alloy that I am not aware of, you should have no problem bending it back.
 

typ4

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Get an estimate to get it "repaired" and tell them it is an obsolete part and then take their 100 bucks, keep your part, you have to really play hardball with those ********. I dont think you are obligated to give up your part. Hey dont you have an old clapped out radiator to give them. I hate uPS can you tell. They lost some of my tools out of a box and they wouldnt cover it because it wasnt in cardboard.

Also all the factory IC's I have welded on are pretty soft, I would leave it if it fits.
 

david85

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Gotta agree with you about UPS. They always charge the highest brokerage fees to canadians too. Unfortunately most vendors still seem to prefer them.
 

bigoilburner19

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hey man if it anit broke dont fix it if there is no cracks or no welds broke and if it fits liek it should well hell keep it liek that i would i mean i use to weld alum rads and intercoolers in my school and ive seen some that were just to bad to fix so its what ever floats ur boat
 

RedTruck

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I've heard that the 83 model year precups can really make a difference. Of course this is all hear say, but there is mention of emissions in some of Tim's literature.

Sorry to hear about your intercooler Sean. If you're building something that's going to be for show I'd probably try to straighten it. If I was building a cattle/hay hauler I'd probably run it like it is.

Paul
 

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Hey Guys,
Just made it back from a trip to the twin cities over the long weekend. Had a few issues with my moms truck on the way up and while we were up there but we've got everything figured out, and hey I didn't put a bullet hole in the block so it's all good. lol

The guy I bought the IC from apparently reported it to UPS, they want to pick it up tomorrow. So now I get to play hard ball with them and try to get them to pay up and let me keep it.
 

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Been too busy to take all to many pics and post an update in a few days. I finally got my heads back from the machine shop on Tuesday.

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He took .009 off of each head. I hope that wasn't too much. I told him to stay under .005 but he obviously doesn't listen. He also didn't listen to me when I told him which valve stem seals to put in them. I told him intake gets posi seals the exhaust just put the retainer cap seal on. He put posi seals on both of them. So I hope he didn't just set me up for the dreaded 90k mile valve drop the 7.3's are so prone to getting. I wasn't about to tell him, take those off and put the other ones on though because it would have likely taken him another 2 months to pull those 8 valve springs.

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Anyway. Lots of progress tonight, FINALLY! My brother made the intake hat spacer I needed for my Extreme Velocity intake hat to work on our engines. (I used this intake hat to take advantage of the 3" intercooler piping the Cummins charged air cooler uses.) With that 4" spacer my bother machined I can easily service glow plugs or other items without messing with the intake hat. The real tricky part will be figuring out the routing of the IC piping when the thing comes all together.

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I finished cleaning all the gasket surfaces yesterday. I finished "setting in" all of the head stud threads today as well as completed the honing of the cylinders.
I did 3 up-downs in each cylinder one way and then turned the block over and did it the other way 3 times to get the cross hatch and checked what I had and it looked good enough to me. I don't want to over size these bores too much.

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I'm really hoping to get atleast the short block assembled tomorrow. If anyone has any tips or advice I may not know of for this process feel free to shout them out.
 

david85

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Do you know if he ground off the valve stems to compensate for the surfacing? These are interference engines and have VERY close running clearances between the valve and piston.

When I got my reman heads, I found they had been shaved by 5 thou, and upon checking, the valves had been shaved by 10.
 

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Yes the valve stems have been obviously ground down. That was one of the first things I noticed. I didn't understand why until now though. :) Intake more than the exhaust for whatever reason but yea he ground them down.
 

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