Brakes, tires problem

[Macrobb]

Might help with rebuild.

You must be registered for see images attach

Nice diagram, but I will point out that the last couple sets of brake shoes I've installed on these trucks... all 4 pads are exactly the same size.
The only differences have been attachment holes, or they would be completely interchangable.

 

[rhkcommander]

I had to order another socket, this truck came with "tuner" lug nuts, instead of the more common 6-spline they are 7-. No one here has them, but they have the tools to destructively remove them.

I'll take pictures when I get the tire off!

Since I need a new rim, should I upgrade to a better size rim? I can get some of those 8x170 superduty wheels for fairly cheap with firestone transforce at tires on them... Obviously not a bolt on, but could be cheap enough to rob the rubber off and throw on my rims plus a replacement. I haven't found any rims that look like mine though.

I am wondering if anyone has ever drilled new holes between the existing 8x170s, apparently they are too close to our 8x6.5 to just redrill. I saw that there are adapters, but I dont think it is safe to use them on our trucks either (they are aluminum, 6061 t6 but still)

 

[Thewespaul]

The difference between the patterns are so slim it would be pretty scketchy trying to run it like that with a heavy truck

 

[rhkcommander]

The difference between the patterns are so slim it would be pretty scketchy trying to run it like that with a heavy truck

yeah I dont want to do anything unsafe. I was just hopeful, full wheels with a lot of tread life for 500 but they are 8x170...

My old tires are 285/75/R16, those firestone AT tires cost between 150-210 depending on width (ranges about 215 to 315 width). Not sure what the sweet spot is, I have to double check the front springs but I think these mickey thompsons would kiss them on a hard turn.



Picture of the damage is attached. Anyone have a clue what line of rim this is? I haven't found any that didnt have spokes or holes. I haven't dropped the spare yet because of the special lug nuts, but I think its just a steelie

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[79jasper]

Seen those before.
Could be older centerlines. But they closed up shop in August, then were bought out.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[gfemling]

I thought that only applied to non-rabs trucks; I know mine doesn't have it, and am unsure about the OP's 87. By 88, I know they don't.

I have an early 87-Nov 86 build- and has RABS. And I discovered an interesting aspect recently while trouble shooting the RABS light on. Had converted all turn/stop bulbs to LED including electronic flasher module and started getting the yellow abs dash warning light. Reviewed Ford manual and “discovered” the RABS computer stores codes that can be flashed out- had thought our trucks were “computer dumb” but seems if have auto trans and/or RABS you have some. Anyway seems the RABS needs the rear brake lights to be working on both sides and expects resistance from incandescent bulbs or it detects a fault and shuts down the RABS. This usually shows up after speed gets up to about 35mph so no yellow RABS failure light at low speed then come on during drive when got up to “activation” speed and use brakes. And then if stop and turn off truck the RABS system resets and start all over again. Swapped back to 1147 incandescent rear brake bulbs and problem went away. Another observation made during testing- my system does same as OPs- tends to lock up rears when wet surfaces when first starting and low speed which I suspected was the RABS not working but during the trouble shooting of yellow abs warning ( when that warning light is on the RABS system is non- functioning) I can attest that the rears lock up WAY easier than when the light is not showing so I concluded RABS system is working but that maybe it has a minimum speed it need to get above before it begins modulating rear hydraulic pressures and/or the rear tires need to have enough rolling torque to begin turning again after the RABS valve reduces the pressure. Don’t know but seems after that early drive part it then works as supposed to.

 

[rhkcommander]

Got the spare dropped, had to cut the damn carriage bolt that holds it to the bracket. It would turn, but just barely. Would have been better either welded in place or hex head...

Anyway after I found out the floor jack was leaking I found a scissor jack, finally got the wheel off the ground. Swapped them out but the TUNER lug nuts are too short for the stock rim. Should I hit up a junkyard or are there any good sources out there? i could probably cut the ends off of these pieces of crap too. I'm just trying to get the damn thing moving again right now

 

[rhkcommander]

found some in the garage under some crap. Got the spare mounted! woo. Now I just have to budget and find time to redo the rear brakes and replace the rims and tires...

 

[rhkcommander]

same thing happened today after only sitting a night or two.

I noticed the truck was "stuck" when I went to back out. Stuck moreso than if I tried backing out with the e-brake on. Then it kinda popped loose and away I went. But the brakes were SUPER sensitive so I made sure to leave a ton of space and downshift to slow down more than normal. Still locked up once but it stayed true at least. It was raining pretty good the last two nights, but the truck had been operating perfectly until today.

I;m not able to pop the tires out to take a look at the rear anytime soon.

 

[rhkcommander]

Had a new issue last week cruising on the freeway, traffic turned into stop and go after normal speed, things would go from stopped to back up to speed and back down with people driving like idiots, this happened about 6x and I saw some haze from the front wheel wells from the hard braking, then the next time I tried to brake there was almost no resistance all the way to the bottom. The last quarter of an inch provided some stopping forces, I down shifted hard and always leave myself extra room so I was OK other than being freaked out.

Pedal was still gone and traffic finally stopped going nuts so I limped into a rest stop and cooled off. Brake line to the front truck was scalding hot, calipers were smoking. Is this normal? Its not like I was going down a grade or something, hell if I was towing I might've been screwed. I have a feeling the rear brakes aren't helping at all, but any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[chillman88]

How long has it been since you adjusted your rear brakes? Even with new parts mine don't like holding adjustment.

 

[laserjock]

It’s surprisingly easy to overheat the brakes on these trucks. I did it in stop and go traffic with the camper. Not fun. You probably boiled the brake fluid. Adjusting the rears will help but short of better rotors and pads that dissipate heat I’m not sure what else you do. Make sure the calipers are releasing so that’s not compounding the issue. It’s a heavy truck. Takes a lot of friction to stop it.

F= mass x acceleration.